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afrikawasbeer

18 Blog Entries
1 Trip
49 Photos

Trips:

Traveling Africa Overland

Shorthand link:

http://blogabond.com/afrikawasbeer


'When I traveled to here and to there, I was tired of thee, O Road, but now when thou leadest me to everywhere I am wedded to thee in love.'

I hope that you find some inspirational message of hope, love and redemption through the pages of this travel diary



Rainforest

Cape Coast, Ghana

Day two in Cape Coast and we decided to head out to the Kakum National Park, a rainforest conservation. We started early morning and got lucky with a early pickup on especial Ghanaian public transport; the tro0tro. Its something similar to South African taxi/ minibusses. We climbed the 23km hill dodging potholes and picking and dropping new friends as we went along. Ronny, the German who has been traveling with us for the past 7 days, is very keen to befriend every single person he comes across. Strange days are on us!

Kakum park is nothing spectacular. But its conservation projects like these that make news head lines of deforestation relevant. West Africa once had an indigenous rain forest stretch from Guinea in the west, inland up to Burkina Faso and all along the coast to Togo and Benin. Now all that remains is a few projects like Kakum in Ghana and some in other neighbouring countries. All of this destruction of essential natural green spots happened in the past 60 years. In the visitors centre, one board read that if deforestation continues like it has in the past, 3 unique species will be wiped out every hour. Stuff like this makes me so angry, you know? Its like, 'What have we become?' And where do we start; what impact can a few people make? Maybe we can start by always checking the timber source of all furniture and other wood products. If its not from sustainable forests, we should boycott it. Hit them where it hurts most; the bottom line. We need to drive down the market for these products and stop these thieves. Its really a problem, and we can all make a difference.

Anyway, I'm getting sidetracked. So we decided on going on the suspension bridge, one of the biggest 4 in the world. It hangs 40m above the forest floor and consists of 7 bridges with stations in between. Its was a really fun walk and great to have a birds eye view on the forest canopy and surroundings. The steel ladder with rickety plywood board is supported by a net bound over the ropes. I've never been great with highest so this was quite a scarey sight at times, especially when you have some idiots for friends stalking you and swinging it ever slightly. Jeez, with friends like these... :)

All that remains for Cape Coast is visiting the slave museum and castle (which is more famous these days for Barak and Michelle Obama visiting a few months ago than its rich history; joke). Then tonight should be quite good too with a cultural night at Oasis bar. If they have Ghanaian acrobats as the ones we saw in Ouagadougou, its gonna be a super night!

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on November 14 from Cape Coast, Ghana
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Livin' it Up!

Takoradi, Ghana

From Ouagadougou, where I last wrote from, we traveled straight down to Accra, Ghana in a 17hour bus trip. It was bearable, expect for the heat that drained every last bit of energy out of you as the bus comes to a still stand. The 'Aircon' that was advertised was actually just two ventilation holes in the roof. But this was nothing new by now so when we arrived in Accra at 3am, we just slept till the sun rose and then set out for a hotel. Accra is a weird city. Coming from predominantly Muslim French West Africa, the in-your-face Pentacostal Christianity was quite a change. Everywhere banners advertising the latest outpouring of the Holy Ghost is displayed. for the rest of the city the shops are adorned in Christenese, MTN sponsored labels. It is like the christian version of Alice in Wonderland. You can get a 'oh my God' haircut, or get furniture at 'the Lord's casket' or get internet at 'resurrection power communication centre'... Why not try 'Jesus is Lord Machanics' for a car breakdown or go to 'The Great Provider General Wholesalers'. Its all right here in the Pentacostal capital of the world!

After a few formalities inc securing our Accra - Douala, Cameroon flight (we decided to fly across Nigeria after seeing District-9... jokes!!), we headed out for the Green Turtle Lodge some 300km down the Ghanaian coast. On arrival, we were all blown away. This is a eco-lodge with almost zero impact on the environment. Its run on solar energy and the sewerage is worked back into the earth. The building material is also all natural. But more than this, it faced a nice outstreched beach with fun 3ft shore breaks for body surfing. What a place to veg for the next 6 days! So, as you could expect, I dont have too much news on the last few days. We met some really cool people and I take some great conversations along for the rest of the trip.

But a few words on the lodge. The owner and his wife wanted to work in development and he did a few jobs in agencies in London. But then felt the need to be involved hands-on. The options were Mozambique and Ghana. Deciding on Ghana, they got this nice piece of land sandwiched between two villages and the beach. In one of the villages, the child mortality rate is 1:5 which is shocking, these people really need help. So their lodge is part of a greater view on development where they use this as a launchpad to work with these communities. They also set up a Green Turtle conservation project to help these endangered species (I saw one laying eggs then hurrying back into the ocean; awesome sight). I think there is still a lot of opportunities in combining eco-tourism with development work. And it was so cool to see this in practice...

So all in all a very cool 6 days and now we have two days to kill in which we will visit some slave castles and walk a huge hanging bridge over the tropical forest. Then we will go back to Accra and fly to Douala, Cameroon on Tuesday from where we will aim to hike the highest mountain in West Africa, Mount Cameroon... exciting times ahead!

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on November 13 from Takoradi, Ghana
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Thoughts on Consumerism in Travel

Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso

After the Dogon country we left for Ouagadougou. We met some Frencies on the road and was nice to have some insider info on life in Ouaga. Burkina Faso was alsways just going to be a pass through country. An' I'm been a-tinking a while...

Often time in travels (and the tougher part of it) it really gets to you and brings out the best (and worst) in you. And especially on 'adventure traveling' like overlanding Africa, traveling SE Asia, South America, India, whatever. I first started thinking about this concept in Mauritania where I saw someone graffiti their mission, Sholtz to SA, on a roadsign. I figgered that those people regarded their little trip in higher esteem than the sanctity and uniqueness of Mauritania and its people. And you see it everywhere; is fashionable to talk about development or doing volanteering or 'helping the poor' etc etc. Now I'm not saying this is the case for everyone, but is the sickness of our generation.
People many times treat 'developing countries' as a means to fulfil their craving 'to mean something'. And in so doing we place ourselves higher than others and in our helping, we actually dont help them be themselves. That in our charity we can rob others. We become consumers of tourism and become arrogant in what we think we know about cultures or peoples or regions etc. That we compared one people group to another and can say 'I like this, but that is not so nice as the other one'. We put on cultural filters and view all the experiences we have through them and become judges of what we like as opposed to what they like.

And this was the case in Burkina Faso too. We could have seen this as just a pass through country and our attitude could have been like that. We were only there for 3 days so what can you really expect? But the city really left a pleasant after tase with live music and the like. Also met Baba, a local, who went far out of his way to entertain us. He took us out on scooters and we drove through the city and then into the millet and rice fields, over rivers, through villages until we found a small village where we bought a chicken, slaughtered it in the field, and spread it out on the naked flames. These kinda things you won t have if you dont embrace every culture as sacred. not that we have found a good balance in that, but i strive to it... let's love people truly, not for self gain

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on November 6 from Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Dogon Country

Endem, Mali

Our trip started from a town called Bandiagara. The Dogon country is an escaprpment with a steep cliff face. All along the top and the bottom of this villagers have settled in small communities. We basically crissed crossed up and down the escarpment on a flipping awesome trekking experience... We trekked through millet and rice fields, crocodile rivers (wether there are still crocs we had a debate!), vast fields of cattle herding and a day in the rain. We actually cheated a bit in that we got porters to carry our bags along the +- 35km we did in 2 1/2 days. The only reason being that we went straight to the border from here and each bag was about 18kg... we felt like colonial slave drivers :-]

The history of the Dogon people goes something like this (dont have my note book on me so its not dead accurate). Four families settled in this valley around 700AD. The influence of Islam was spreading rapidly across north and the interior of Africa and reached the Dogon people. The older generation converted from their Animalist worship by means of animal sacrifice and fetishes to Islam. But the younger folk was disgrunteled and moved south west to Keyes area. The older brothers pursued them and met in Bamako (translater river of the crocodile). After some convincing, the younger ones agreed to head back to the Dogon villages. But that nightm while the older brothers was sleeping, they set out again for Djenne. Here they spent 3 years seeking concil on their ways. The oldrs brothers couldnt find them and went back to theuir camps. And then the younger brothers completed their circle route and went to settle in the Dogon country again, maintaining their animalist ways. And so you will find tranditional villages, Islam, catholic etc etc in this valley. Quite bizzare actually! but a great learning experience. Our guide Seidou was really cool and informative!


Iak (note man boobs), Neilas and me
The crew was stoked to get back out in the wild again. Its been 3 weeks of tough traveling which included 2 40-hours busses (Tangier to Dakhla, Dakar to Bamako) and completing almost 6500km in 3 weeks. So its been great to just get soaked with some culture and

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on November 4 from Endem, Mali
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Mopti and beyond

Mopti, Mali


River Bani
So we finished our time and headed out to Mopti, about 500 km from Bamako. To be honest, I was a bit dissappointed by Bamako but only because I had a huge expectation for it. I love the album Dimanche a Bamako by Amadou et Mariam, a blind couple from Mali, and listening to this album created a certain feel for the city. Manu Chao also collaborated on this album and, if you know his stuff, you will appreciate my expectation! But all well and good, we met some cool people and relaxed in the city. Spirits were also a bit down after a very lng tedious bus journey (wait, didnt I write about this perviously?) We visited the fetish market and gor hold of some inside info how to really spin the gods' dice in order to get what you want. pretty grim afterthought. But arriving in Mopti in the north east of Mali was quite a pleasant Surprise.


Neill doing his business
See the thing is, when you travel and have your guide book as the bible, you start making plans and plotting your route. And soon you become the master of your little route. And then you have some experiences that is counter to what you have first believed, and its at this time then the real feel of a town or a place hits you. Mopti was really an unexpected pleasant Surprise. We arrived from the bus and a man offered his services. We were going to this hotel in any way, so following him seemed natural (and you dont really have that when someone offers his courtesy as a kick-back is always expected). So we followed Seidou to YasNas Problem hotel and settled in for the night. He introduced himself as a tour guide for the Dogon Country and came in at a reasonable price. We came here for this reason so were stoked to have met him. The next day we signed a self-written contract and had a nice cruise along the river, fishing and wishing the sun a fairwell over the hrzon. Till tomorrow then...

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on November 3 from Mopti, Mali
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Good friends we make

Bamako, Mali

i met a local guy at our hostel. he only had the chance to go to school till grade 6. But he is one of those guys that you will never forget. We started talking about development in Africa, and his thoughts and theories blew me away. Some of the things he said:

'We need to settle on a transparent society and combat corruptions and its likes. We need to learn by experience and avoid making the listakes of our forefathers. Let us jointly combat the injustices that causes us to spend our monies on expensive weaponry. WE NEED NOT STORNG MEN BUT STRONG INSTITUTIONS FOR THE PEOPLE AND BY THE PEOPLE.'

i wish I could give this man the opprtunity that he never had... I know he will be a success

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on October 27 from Bamako, Mali
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Mali: First Impressions

Diboli, Mali

'I am a prehistoric fish with transparent ribcage. I am a Zulu shield with assegai. The eyes of a fierce lion is locked on me. I am in the bosom of an African mother.' The cresent moon plays tricks with my mind as she paints through the openings in the dark cloud roof of this West African afternoon. The lion's eyes still follow me, asking about the intent of my visit. I shy away from confrontation. Boabab sillouttes stud the horizon. The cool humid draft through the bus window cleanses my memory of this torturous bus journey. Far away, lightning strikes and illuminates the great outstreched plains. Darkness falls quickly now and the land is quite. All waits in anticipation for the next strike. This time its closer, and the bolt pierces the angry night. The space the bus occupies fall dead quiet. We are one with the road. And then God reaches down from uppebove in a mighty display of power and majesty. The land trembles and groans under the weight of His hand. She submits to her Maker. Then all is dark. The lion sleeps. I am in Mali.


Mali Impressions

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on October 25 from Diboli, Mali
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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I love this city

Dakar, Senegal


Waiting in 40°C for the bus to leave

Its amazing how a few favourable or unfavourable experiences can shape your view of a city, restuarant, clothing brand, nationality, race, car make, etc etc... We were all a bit dispondend of Dakar and Senegal as a whole having been hassled, bribed, lied too, and almost mugged. But today changed all of this. One positive experience made us appreciate this city all over again.


Family Business

Nouakchott beach

Let's play

Colorful boats

We had the same thing happen in Nouakchott, Mauritania. We were down out and discouraged with the way things were going. If it was not the lack of stuff to do, it was the feeling of being robbed for time (very selfish I know...) Then we went to the big fish market on the outskirts of the city and this was really nice sight. Colourful boats filled the beach for miles and the awesome comeradery among the local fishermen. Also all the kids being part of the family business and the involvement of everyone on that beach made it a festival of friendship and togetherness.


Dakar viewed from Goree Island
And here, in Dakar, this morning we took the ferry out to Goree Island, the very popular slave trading post just a few kilometers of the coast. This island life and relaxed vibe put us straight back into the mix. The buildings were beautiful pastel coloured and teeming with a different sort of outlook on life. Kids were playing football amongst these 100's year old buildings and couldn't care less. The island is only 300x900m so walkable in just a few hours. Swimming in the cristal clear water just made us realise again that we are on holiday and shouldn't be so bummed out!


Goree Island harbor

Back in the city I just realised that I really like this place. Its got a ape Town vibe to it, with the agro factor of downtown Jo'burg and the street markets of Durban; if I can compare it to what I know. The city is also teeming with life and will buzz till 3am this morning, guarenteed. Streets are filled with people pushing to make sales of sunglasses, Orange sim cards, jeans, t-shirts, etc etc - a normal African city in operation. The difference here is that this was once the Administrative capital of French West Africa back in the days of exploitation, so it seems that everything works well. The streets are filled with massive tour busses of Europeans and big hotels line the prominade facing the Atlantic. The influence of rich European banks are seen everywhere and the people drive their Audi Q7's, VW Tuareqs, BWM X5's etc. But yeah - all in all a pleasant city.


Jac and le Takeifa

Tonight we are going to a gig at the very posh French Institute and tomorrow we are heading out for Bamako, Mali which is something that I have been looking forward to for a long time. We then hope to travel upstream the Niger river for 3 days to a town called Mpti. If this is not possible we will just bus it. But at Mopti starts the Dogon country and this is sure to be one of the highlights of West Africa. We plan to hike among the mountains and Dogon people for a few days and then start making our way into Burkina Faso... all in good time!



permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on October 22 from Dakar, Senegal
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Baptism of Fire

Dakar, Senegal


Senegal - What lies ahead?
Whew, a whole lot has happened in the last 48 hours. We set out from Nouakchott, very excited to see Senegal even though we heard it could be a gruling place. Driving past the informal settlement of the last few hundred kilometers of Mauritania, crossing a fiery border was far from my mind. But so we arrived at the border. The persistant hands and faces through the windows signified that we were in for zealous deal makers. We were met by a Mauritanian border police man. He took our passports. Silence. 'You're visas expired 2 days ago' fell like a hammer on ice. We looked, and would be damned, but he was right. When we entered the country, the border police back dated the visa by 3 days from a sunday to a sunday, thus leaving us illegal in 'no man's land'. But there's a price for everything in Africa and once we agreed on a new visa of $30 each, we were on the move. We have a persistant tail with us ensuring that he will look after us. We crossed over the River Senegal on a vehicle ferry. What lies ahead would be our baptism of fire, the first real African border crossing going solo (we lost contact with George and his Nissan cargo van in Nouakchott as we stayed at different places).

The barricade is lowered. Out rushes people with large 'mielie sakke' and trucks, 4x4s etc; in rushes sunglasses sellers, money changers, etc. So at this sensory overload, people take chances. Walking through the knee deep waters of the River Senegal, a man in his civvies ask for our passports. The tail tells us he is police. But I have no proof that these guys are scammers and I refuse to comply. The man gets aggressive. The people crowd and move among us. I persist. He persists. The tail comforts sayings its okay, and we hand it over. Off he goes, on we go. We are lead to a small room where we wait. 5 minutes. Money changers enter. 20 minutes. They push for deals but we wait for the passports. 35 minutes. And the relief; he is back, asking for cash for border stamps. We give it and he is off again. But I follow him this time and face up to the legitimate police, who hands over Neill and my passports; Iakovos' being kept behind. The reason? Greece isn't in Euro Zone and Hellenist isn't a nationality, only Greek. We knew a bribe was in the making. Long story short, we ended up speaking to the police chief who assured the police man Iak has a legit entry into Senegal. But the police man's pride is dented and keeps pushing Iak's passport to the back. Eventually, after 2 hours of border corssing, we are walking off to the garage; only to start the next experience: the African bussing system!


Dakar, Senegal
We arrive at the garage for a lift to Dakar. We find a good looking bus with amper space for 4 people. The driver says we leave in 30 minutes and we agree that its a good deal and pay the cash. 3 hours (!!) later, we are off. And instead of 4 people, 8 people. We are sour. On top of that, the driver short cutted the Customs regulations and we were stopped 4 times, unpacking most of the bus. So this 370km journey ended up taking us 13 hours to complete, arriving the the big, dangerous, Johannesburg-type city of Dakar. Its 3 am, we are tired. After getting a taxi to central Dakar, the receptionist at the hotel refuses that we pay in the morning, and we dont have cash yet. No ATMs around. So we walk out on him and go and sit at a Shell garage, waiting for sunrise to get a room and sleep the day through. All went well and we are rested again. I was also very nearly mugged today and if I had something in my left shorts pocket, it would have been stolen now.

So basically, just really the ropes of the notorious French West Africa at the moment. We feel much more street smart and understand the thugs' tricks. But all considered, loving these people and cant wait to see some live music tomorrow evening

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on October 21 from Dakar, Senegal
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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Stray Birds

Nouakchott, Mauritania

Some thoughts from Rabindranath Tagore's Stray Birds on a hot Saharan day:

When I travelled to here and to there, I was tired of thee, O Road, but now when thou leadest me to everywhere I am wedded to thee in love.

What you are you do not see, what you see is your shadow.

My wishes are fools, they shout across thy songs, my Master. Let me but listen.

The Perfect decks itself in beauty for the love of the Imperfect.

The infant flower opens its bud and cries, "Dear World, please do not fade."

Power said to the world, "You are mine. The world kept it prisoner on her throne. Love said to the world, "I am thine." The world gave it the freedom of her House.

The noise of the moment scoffs at the music of the Eternal.

Asks the Possible to the Impossible, "Where is your dwelling place?"
"In the dreams of the impotent," comes the answer.

"I am ashamed of my emptiness," said the Word to the Work.
"I know how poor I am when I see you," said the Work to the Word

permalink written by  afrikawasbeer on October 19 from Nouakchott, Mauritania
from the travel blog: Traveling Africa Overland
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