bobandglennda

Fronteras, Rio Dolce to Utila

bobandglennda — Tue, 26 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

On a dull and overcast day that threatened rain, we left Captain John's Marina on January 3rd to travel to Texan Bay Marina which is a safe stop much closer to Livingston (at the mouth of the RIO DOLCE RIVER). We were travelling with two other boats: Honah Lee II and Sea Tryst. As we toured down the river the sky brightened and some of the clouds lifted, allowing us the awesome view of the cliffs where the very first Tarzan movie was filmed!

The next morning at daylight we headed out again for LIvingston where Raul said that all our paperwork was ready! Great news! The captains went ashore leaving the first mates with a little time to rest, but only a short time!

Captains once again aboard we headed for Tres Puntas thinking to anchor for the night and leave in the morning. However, we reached there early afternoon and the anchorage was very rolly and the seas were calm with a light wind from the west. Decision made. WE would do an overnight passage to Utila with the expectation that we would likely need to motor most of the way there.

As night fell the wind picked up, and up and UP! then changed to North; the very wind that you don't want on this passage! When we hit 7.5 knots of speed we took in sail trying to slow down to be more comfortable. Then the torrential rain hit! I finally sat on the floor of the cockpit in order not to be bounced around too much! However, the boat was handling the conditions well. The Auto Pilot worked and the chart plotter kept us informed of where we were at all times! Some of our friends were having equipment problems on top of the weather situation.

At daybreak the waves were much larger than we wanted to see! But we knew that now we had only an hour or two until we would cross over the reef and be in calmer conditions.

Before noon, we were anchored in the harbour at Utila and able to go to bed! This lovely harbour was calm and we were very thankful to be in a safe place with the anchor well dug into the bottom. WE really needed the rest! Check in could wait!

The next day we couldn't wait to get ashore to explore and of course see the Port Captain, Immigration, etc. So, off we went and promptly found the oldest house in town which is a lovely eatery. Then walked on down to the main town dock and stood in line to check in. Lter we walked much of the harbour finding many interesting sites.

Walking the Plank in the Rio Dulce

bobandglennda — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 00:00:00 GMT

Happy New Year, Everyone! We have been back on the boat in the Rio Dulce, Guatemala since December 13, 2009. The boat was in great shape when we arrived, with 12 coats of new varnish on the outside of the boat and much of the interior revarnished. The marina had also cleaned the decks as wellas they were able given all the stuff stored on board and the inside of the boat had also been wiped down. However, we still had lots to do to put the boat back to sailing condition and most days you just can't work in the afternoon heat! Time has flown by as we readied the boat and provisioned to head on for further adventures.

On the bus ride from Guatemala City to the Rio Dulce we saw the evidence of the draught we had been hearing about. The hills in some places were grey and brown and many mountain streams were empaty, which is very unusual for lush, green Guatemala. Even along the RIO DOLCE there were complaints about the lack of rain for the new corn crops that had recently been planted. However, it has rained alot since we arrived and the crisis seems to be easing. The hillsides are once again green and the streams from the mountains are flowing again.

Here at Captain John's Marina we are med moored ( an anchor out the front then backed to the dock) and this requires us to walk across a board to get onto the boat. Negotiating this arrangement several times a day will definitely improve your balance! I am proud to say that I have not lost my balance ever!

At Christmas we went to Casa Gutemala, an orphange school, to help with preparations for their big dinner and the Santa Claus Parade. Now this is not like most Santa parades because Santa travels by launcha over the water and the kids actually get their gifts when he arrives at the Casa. We helped with food preparation, costumes and decorations and of course sang and played with the kids! And dinner for the kids and staff was turkey, potatoes, gravy, cranberries and special cake with fruit for dessert with Tomales as the before dinner treat!

We attended a Christmas dinner with other cruisers that was really excellent! Everyone had a great time! Then for New Year's we went to a party at yet another Marina! You have never seen the likes of the fireworks! Everyplace here has fireworks so there were fireworks all up and down the river both Christmas eve and New Year's Eve! What a sight!
This was definitely the noisiest Christmas and New Year we have ever experienced!

On Monday, we plan to be in Livingston which is 26 miles down the river to the ocean where we will check out of Guatemala. Our plan is to sail to the Bay Islands of Honduras (Utila, Roatan, and Guanaja). The route could change depending on the weather, but we will either sail from Livingston headed for Roatan or do some hops along the northern coast of Honduras, day sailing our way to our destination.

A Motor Sail Up Largo Izabal

bobandglennda — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Ed and Benia, onboard Sea Angel the crew from Ruby slippers and ourselves to come for a motor sail and explore Largo Izubal on board their Nauticat 44'. YES, YES!

San Felipe

Floating islands of Hyacinths

Ever since arriving in Fronteras we have been curious to find out what is on the other side of the bridge. The weather presented us with an absolutely beautiful day! There was much laughter, great food, and a perfect breeze, right on the nose! Oh, well!

The three captains sail the boat while.....

the admirals have a good visit!

The views were once again awesome in the true sense of that word!
Usually, we were able to see the other side of the lake, but with the end of the lake 30 Miles away, water stretched ahead of us without Shoreline for a couple of hours.

Largo Izabal

Motor Sailing Up Largo Izabal onboard Sea Angel

bobandglennda — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Ed and Benia on Sea Angel invited us to go with them on their boat to explore Largo Izubal. Since arriving I have been very curious about what lies beyond the bridge at Fronteras. Of course, we wanted to go! The crew from Ruby Slippers was also invited to come along!

We were not disappointed! Great company, great food, wonderful views and the chance to try out a Nauticat 44'. The weather also blessed us with a sunny, Bright day and some breeze. What a beautiful boat! Thank you, again, Ed and Benia!

Largo Izubal is 30 Miles long, and varies in width. Most of the time you can see the other side of the lake, but often you cannot see the other end of the lake.

A Walk in the Jungle Canapy

bobandglennda — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Yup! Despite all of my fears, Bob convinced me to go on a Jungle walk! I loved it!

Glennda in the middle of a swing bridge 30 meters in the air

There were flowers and interesting plants everywhere, but we were disappointed not to see more birds. We also expected to get to a bathing pool, but did not see it.

Monkey Vine

On our way back to the resort from which we began our journey, an older couple walking with us heard gunshots and took off very frightened. However, the shots were to frighten away the water birds because they kill the trees in which they roost.

Lots to do in the Rio Dulce

bobandglennda — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Those of you who know us well, know that we usually don't sit still for too long. Well, nothing has changed in that regard! Soon after our arrival, we took off on a Sunday afternoon for the hot pools at El Paraiso.

Peter and Francine, Stephen and Marlene, Glennda at Paraiso

This meant getting into a collectivo for the half hour or so ride up into the hills. After much negotiation, we were on our way. The large van was very full, but still it stopped and more people got on, then more and more people, until there were two men on the roof and the ticket taker was hanging onto the roof ladder. I counted twenty-seven people (some children) in total.

Twenty-seven people and the CHICKEN!

Our mistake was to travel to a popular place on a Sunday when most llocal people are off work and travel to visit family. But would we really not want to have had the experience!!

Once at our destination, we walked into the park. The falls were a wonderful sight, with water cascading over the bathers already in the water.

Glennda' s Gone Native! Theis Mayan dress is cooler to wear than Canadian clothing. I am standing beside a Bird of Paradise plant.

Warm, no, HOT water flowed over us, relaxing us, as we swam up to the falls: pounding our heads and shoulders when we stood, and splashing our faces as we dove for the shelter of the overhanging cliff. Small fish nibbled on the toes of anyone who stayed put for any length of time. One even tried to eat a little of my knee cap! OUCH!! However, once you are moving again, they quickly move away.

WOW!!

A picnic on the rocks

Once again the beauty around us is astounding!

The gurad who watched our stuff while we swam

Dinner in the Jungle was Next!

Casa Perico is a restaurant up a tributary of the Rio Dulce River. It is a large two story palapa, with a number of outbuildings: dorms and cabins. Many backpackers stay at Casa Perico while they explore this part of Guatemala.

Casa Perico

On Saturday evenings, the staff prepare a very special smorgasbord meal! Meat is often scarce in the Guatemalan diet, but at this meal there will be at least 5 kinds of meat!

While at Casa Perico, we met Captain John, his wife Elvira and all of the boaters who are planning to leave their boats at his marina for the summer. A retired boat captain (commercial) we feel the care of our boats will be superior! We have also seen the great care he takes of his won boat.

Captain John's Marina

Elvira is known as the best varnisher on the Rio, so we are going to have her work on Island Girl II. We look forward to returning to a boat that looks much improved. The sun and salt water over the last 3 years has really done a number on the rub rails and toe rails.

The BBQ

In the Kitchen at Casa Perico

Up the Rio Dulce River to Fronteras

bobandglennda — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

For weeks, we have been emailing friends in the Rio Dulce, letting them know that we were getting closer to our goal of entering the river! But today, we talked with them on the VHF radio! It was so good to hear you Peter and Francine!

And surprise, Ed and Benia on Sea Angel, also replied! We have only seen them once since Isla Mujeres, despite being in some of the same anchorages. Although, we have never sailed in really bad conditions this whole trip, the weather in harbour has not been condusive to putting the dingy in the water and going for a visit! But the sun has come out and we will be able to roam at will!

Almost everyone who has been to the Rio Dulce encouraged us to go see it for ourselves. They all stressed what a great lifestyle there is in the Rio for boaters and talked about how much cheaper it is to live than in the US or Canada. They did not prepare us for the majesty of the trip through the cannons to Fronteras. The following pictures speak for themselves.

One Misty Monday Morning we Found Guatemala

bobandglennda — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Expecting a big crossing from Punta Gorda, Belize to Livingston, Guatemala, I was surprised to see land again within an hour and a half of raising anchor. However, it took several hours before we were within radio range and could call Raul in Livingston. On the recommendation of friends, we hired Raul to handle our entry to Guatemala.

Waiting for Better Weather

Raul, answered promptly and within 5 minutes of anchoring in front of the town, all of the appropriate officals were on board, welcoming us to Guatemala. Once the boat was inspected, we went ashore with Raul and the officials in a launcha. The launcha driver promised to be available to take us back to our boat in about 1 to 1.5 hours. We went for lunch and Raul assured us that he would have our visa's prepared for us before Siesta.

Using the communication towers as an aid to navigation

The port captain walked us to the bank and we used our debit card to get Quertzals, the local money. There are 6.4 Q's to the Canadian dollar and over 8 Q to the US dollar. Fun!

Street Scenes

Laundry and Secretarial Service Together?

Store Fronts in Livingston

We were really surprised to see all the cars in this town: there is no road into this place just the roads in town and for a few Miles out of town. Here you must come by boat or plane. Also, many goods and services are available. It really is a busy, busy spot, where people, golf carts, tuk tuk taxi's, dogs, people and bicycles all share the roadway!

The Lumber Yard in Linvingston

Cars and Vans in a place where there are no roads into the town

Raul was good to his word and by 1:30 p.m. we were on our way up the Rio. This was a record for the shortest clear in procedure ever! Thank You, Raul!

Placentia to Punta Gorda

bobandglennda — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We left Placentia on the 21st of Februaray to continue on down the coast to Punta Gorda, where we would check out of Belize and position ourselves to cross to Livingston and check into Guatemala.

It was good that we planned to do short hops on this section of the coast, as the sea was on the beam causing the boat to roll and be uncomfortable even in light air.

Our first stop was Little Monkey Cay where we saw very little. No villages were apparent from our vantage point and the only lights we saw at night were from the next bay south:the village of Monkey River Town. The anchorage was very quiet after the roll of the sailing day and we had a great night's sleep.

On Sunday, we headed for New Haven where we thought we would encounter some civilization. But we were wrong! Hard Luck Charlie died about ten years ago and no one has taken over his farm/marina/restaraunt. His place is fast becoming part of the jungle again, but you can still clearly see the frame of his old house and the marine railway which in the past lifted boats up to 40' out of the water for repairs and storage.

Hardluck Charlie's

On Monday morning we were up and on our way be 7:00 a.m. Arriving in Punta Gorda at 12:30, we ate lunch and then went ashore to clear out at customs and immigration. Of course, it was another "Experience" of a 3rd world system! The solution to any problem seems to come with a price tag, but again, I guess its much the same the world over and the fine for not having been given a medical certificate when we checked into Belize was not unreasonable. We are after all is said and done, visitors to this country.

The most disappointing thing about Punta Gorda was that the power was off for 5 or 6 hours, so we couldn't get onto the internet! No contact with the outside world!

Normally, a boat cannot risk anchoring over night at Punta Gorda and must go back up the coast a few miles to anchor behind an island. However, we were able to stay due to a low pressure system that was hanging over the area. There was literally no wind!
It rained sohard in the night that the port over the bed leaked causing me to be rudely wakened. After being wakened a second time, I moved to a drier bed!

Bob has since repaired/adjusted that port and I no longer open it, EVER!!!!!

Colson Cayes To Placentia

bobandglennda — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Today, we have found the jewel of Belize. Lots of diving and snorkling, as well as, a really picturesque village on a point of land with surrounding islands to protect it in the windy season.

Our dingy makes yet another trip to shore

Here you can find most items you might wish to buy, and laundry service and internet are readily available. But the Anchorage is quite rough if you are not close to the point.

While exploring the island, I found the local school, and before you know it, I was volunteering a week of my time to help. It was a very rewarding experience! However, I was not looking forward to my daily dingy ride to the mainland because, I kept getting soaking wet! Not a nice feelig to stay wet for most of the day!

Fifth Form

Volunteer at St. John's Memorial Anglican School with student from Infant II

Fortunately for me, when Bob was out exploring with Donna and Steve, they came into the back harbour, where some new townhomes are being built. They toured one of the new townhomes and got acquainted with the builder, who offered to allow us to tie up at his dock. The townhomes and their setting is absolutely gorgeous, with very upgraded finsihes and the shared facilities include a pool and hot tub, as well as, a large palapa where you can BBQ or sit and read.What a beautiful spot! THANK YOU ED!

We also found several good restaraunts and coffee bars in Placencia. I think my favourite restaraunt was the Secret Garden, which is run by a young couple from Toronto, Ontario, Canada. The food was excellent and they are also a lot of fun!

We also really enjoyed the Paradise Resort for its great food, good morning coffee and wonderful fresh squeezed juices. Donna and Steve stayed at the resort before leaving us to fly home to Toronto.
We are already missing them!

Donna and Steve on the beach at Cay Caulker

Donna and Steve at the end of another tropical day

Cucumber Marina to Colson Cayes

bobandglennda — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

By mid-morning we were motoring toward Colson Cayes, in order to top up our house batteries. Cucumber Marina had not been able to hook us up to electricity.

However, the wind picked up and ,as soon as, possible we hoisted sails, in a brisk wind that soon pushed the boat to over 7 knots. We reduced sail and then reduced sail some more. By 4:30p.m.we were safely anchored.

The rainy weather is following us down the coast but we were hoping to snorkle and bird watch here. We also understand that there is a blue hole on the other side of the island from were we are anchored.

When we took the dingy into the lagoon to bird watch, but the birds were hiding from the rain! It is still a beautiful spot!

Drowned Cayes to Cucmber Marine

bobandglennda — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Today, was a great sail. Good winds and for most of the day we could see Belize City in the distance. We arrived at Cucmber Marina by mid-afternoon. We are only about 5 or 6 Miles south of Belize City.

The Marina inside the highest wire link fence that I have ever seen and razor wire tops this! Armed guards walk the perimeter, but everyone is very friendly and the facility is wonderfully clean, with pools,zip lines, beaches, museum, restaurant and gift shop.

We immediately packed up our laundry and headed to the far side of the marina, where we found the office and showers, as well as, laundry. There was a lineup of the laundry, but between Donna and myself, we were able to get everything clean again!

While doing laundry, an Ontario motorhome arrived and after they were settled, they offered a ride to Belize City in the car they were towing. I was thankful that we found a more full service gorcery store. However, after we were already in the city, my new friends confessed that they did not have a guidebook or map. The streets we followed into the city, so while I shopped our driver, tried to get directions to get us back to the marina.

It was not an easy drive, but we eventually found ourselves back on the western highway, headed to the marina. It was a big relief to see that high fence again.

Dinner in the restaurant was a wonderful treat and the crew from Ruby Slippers also took advantage of this great setting!

The next morning we visited the museum Olde Belize and are very glad that we did. It really is a wonderful display!

Inside a Mayan Home

The Rain Forest

Replica of Myan Altar

Conch are plentiful along this coast.

Caye Caulker to the Drowned Cayes

bobandglennda — Thu, 12 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We pulled anchor again and are on the move.
Today, we did a short hop from Caye Caulker to the drowned Cayes, which means that we are much closer to Belize City.

We had some rain again today, after a late start. Yesterday, was too miserable to go to shore, so early this morning the guys went for gas and propane, while Donna and I bought some provisions.

Despite the rain and later start we were anchored at the Drowned Cayes just after 3:00 p.m. This is considered to be a Hurricane hole and we can see why! This is the most protected Anchorage we have seen in many, many days!

The Drowned Cayes Anchorage

The Drowned Cayes

The crew from Ruby Slippers made the suggestion that we head for Cucumber Marina tomorrow. It was a unanimous YES onboard Island Girl II. Hot Showers, Laundry, and electricity sound really good!

San Pedro to Cay Caulker, Belize

bobandglennda — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Outdoor Beauty Parlour

From San Pedro to Cay Caulker we had a great sail with full main and part Genie. We average about 4 to 4.5 knots per hour. We spotted dolphins in close, but they did not stay to play for very long.

Knowing the dragging problem at San Pedro, we carefully motored in toward shore and with Steve on Bow Watch, selected a good sandy spot in which to set the anchor. Then we motored to shore and pulled the dingy up near the fisherman's co-op.

After negotiating a good price for some large lobster tails, the fisherman told us that a huge North Blow was expected overnight and is we wanted the best protection we should change our location and hug the far coast from where we were currently anchored. So, as quickly as possible we returned to the boat and changed our mooring spot. However, Ruby Slippers were unable to move because of their deep draft.

Lobster!

Over the next few days we were able to go to shore several times, but we also had one day when we didn't get off the boat due to rough seas! We visited and read and ate and then read some more!

Art on the Beach

Donna and Steve on the beach at Cay Caulker

Donna and Steve at the end of another tropical day

Canuck Cottage

Thanks for the Bread Pudding, Steve!

Library at Cay Caulker

However, on our travels around town I did manage to find the local library.

Xcalak, Mexico to San Pedro (Ambergris Cay), Belize

bobandglennda — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

January 29, 2009.

Checking out of Xcalak proved to be a painless process. Of course, it always costs a few dollars to check in and out of a country, but the fees are usually modest, especially when you consider all of the fees which are attached to an airline ticket.

We traveled all morning in sight of land. Great, but we must be vigilant about the reefs, some of which, are not visible!

The Entrance to the harbour at Ambergris Cay was clearly visible, but with the wind, waves and current all pushing us it was “Hair Splitting”. Bob actually hollered, “ Ride ‘em, Cowboy!,” as he pushed the throttle to full. I think it helped dispel some of the anxiety!!!

All was well and the anchor was safely down before 2:00 p.m.

San Pedro is very different from the villages in Mexico! Hustle, bustle, exhaust fumes and watch very carefully before you cross the street! There are golf carts, motor bikes, bicycles and SUV’s coming at you from every direction and there don’t seem to be any rules!

However, the internet is reliable and supplies are readily available. We even have the use of our BBQ again. All over Mexico, we searched for the proper propane tanks, but could not find them, even at places like Sam’s Club and Costco. But in a hardware store at the north end of the town of San Pedro, there were lots of them!

Things are not cheap here. Two Belize dollars equal one US dollar, but the price may be the same as in the US.

January 30, 2009.

We were dragging anchor due to the norther which has been blowing since yesterday, we have re-anchored, much closer to shore. This time we found an area of sand and hope to stay put.

February 1, 2009.

We moved to the only marina, so Donna and Steve could find us more easily. They flew into Belize City and then took a connecting flight to San Pedro and were here faster than we could have believed possible! It is wonderful to see them!

Plotting a course

Weather Check

Down the Mayan Coast II: From Bahia Espiritu Santo to Xcalak

bobandglennda — Wed, 04 Mar 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We left early in the morning in order to get out to Banco Chinchorro before dinner time. It's 25 to 30 knotical miles from Bahia Espiritu Santo to Banco Chinchorro.

Better sailing today and pleasant 80 degree temperatures. However, b y 3:00 o'clock we put on the engine to ensure our safe arrival well before sundown.

The entrance to the Banco Chinchorro is tricky. First, you must find the opening in the reef, then, line the boat up with the lighthouse which is on one of the two small islands inside the reef. Thank goodness for the information that we were able to read in the Rauscher's Sailing Guide. The updates from friends who have been here also helped immensely.

The lighthouse at Banco Chinchorro

Once inside the reef the waves calmed and we were able to turn our minds to preparing a hot meal. But before we could do that we had to clear in with the Mexican Navy, who came along side in a launcha. They were very polite and soon we had satisfied them with the appropriate paperwork.

The young men who boarded us told us that they are stationed in this outpost for 6 to 8 weeks at a time, without television, beer, softdrinks and lack many other modern conveniences. Larger patrol boats leave from here hoping to intercept and stop the drug delivieries along this coast. We wished them good luck and safe passage.

The Mexican Navy Boat stationed at Banco Chinchorro

They reassured us that they were there for our safety and that we could call them anytime, day or night. We were very happy to be in this safe harbour as the rainstorm which had been brewing all day blew in behind us.

The next morning was another early start as we had 40 knotical miles to go to Xcalak, which would be our last port of call in Mexico. The weather did not look promising, but the forecast said that we had the hours required to do the crossing before the next storm would blow through. So, anchors away!

By noon time we knew that the storm was catching us as the waves were already double the size of those we sailed into earlier in the day. 3:30 p.m. found us calling for help to find the entrance to Xcalak. We could not see the 300 foot break in the reef and visibility was so poor that we couldnot line up with the range markers on shore.

The local dive boat rescued us by coming out to the break in the reef and staying where we could see him. Then we simply sailed to him, following his directions into the harbour. Thank You, Alexandro!

With great relief, we followed the crew of Ruby Slippers into the nicest restaurant we had seen in a very long time. The Leaky Palapa is run by a Canadian Chef who really knows how to cook seafood and fish and also how to help her customers relax and have a great time. Her lemon fish sauce was the best I have ever tasted. It's wonderful the things you find in the "back of beyond."

The next day, you would never understand why we had such a problem getting into the harbour. Bob and John used the calm seas to take the dingy to the opening in the reef and plot some waypoints that would ensure that we would not go aground on our return to the deeper waters of the gulf.

At Anchor at Xcalak

The next day at 2:00 p.m. Sarah from Island Girl II and Chuck from Ruby Slippers were off on the bus back to Isla Mujeres. Now we had no crew. Just the same, Belize here we come!

Checking out with the Captiana in Xcalak was definitely and easy process, but as always it cost us a few dollars, but not bad when you consider all the fees you pay to enter and leave a country when you fly!

Down the Mayan Coast

bobandglennda — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

Sailing is not an easy way to travel, even with the many new digital technologies of our modern era. That's what makes it so exciting! You are pitting yourself and your boat against the elements and trying to ensure that those elements work in your favour!

So, having backpacked across the Yucatan Penninsula, to Merida, Viodalid and Isla Holbox on a previous voyage, we spent our time in Isla Mujeres getting ready to take off for territory that we had not yet explored.

The preparations included, reading every sailing/cruising gude that we were able to buy or borrow, checking as many different weather sites as possible, finding a buddy boat with whom to travel, inputting waypoints (lattitude and longtitude) for the various ports we wished to enter and studying the paper backup charts. Fro sailing the Mayan coast the Raushers' Guide is indispensible.

Since leaving Isla Mujeres, we anchored off Puerto Morales, then sailed for Puerto Adventuras, but strong winds made us change our plans and stop at Hut Point. Then, on to Puerto Adventura, where we stayed for two days. Puerto Adventura is a top ranking resort with lots of entertainment, restaurants, pools, and even dolphin shows. Here, sailboats are always VERY WELCOME and stay for a very modest overnight fee. This beautiful spot lulled us into spending a day longer than planned.

Sarah Grant (our crew member who joined us in Port Charlotte) and I spent one day at Tulum, a beautiful Mayan ruin on the ocean. After walking in the wrong direction for picking up a collectivo, we bargained for a taxi.

Sarah standing ( slumping) inside a Myan walkway that also made me stoop to get through.

After a wonderful 3 hours at Tulum, we returned by collectivo to Puerto Aventuras and on our walk back to the dock visited the free museum on the grounds. The museum consists of treasures reclaimed from the sea wrecks of the past. They have the most extensive collection in the world of religious relics worn by sailors of the past. Well worth the time taken to go through!

Then, Ivy (from Ruby Slippers, our buddy boat for this leg) and I went to Playa del Carmen to re-provision for the next several days. This time we knew where to catch the collectivo and were surprised with the short wait. There is a WALMART in Playa which definitely caught our interest and our money. The ride back was in a taxi since there was no way that we could walk back to the collectivo stand with all that we had purchased or manage to stow it under our seat, if we did find help to get all our provisions transported there.

We left Advenrturas that same evening in order to keep to our deadlines. (Sarah and Chuck both had to be back in Isla Mujeres by the January 28th: Sarah to fly home to Ottawa and go back to work, Chuck to entertain company from the states and then to begin a cruise on the boat MUSIC owned by he and his wife Stuart. We are hoping to see them again soon.) Leaving at night also assured us of arriving at Baiha del Espiritu Santo in full daylight.

The Size of this bay left us breathless! Due to our shallow draft we were able to anchor inside an uninhabited island. We went ashore with the dingy after having a short nap, and had the beach all to ourselves. No one else was even in sight! Only the occasional fisherman passed by in their pangas.

Our Private Island inside Baiha del Espiritu Santo

Fun in Isla Mujeres

bobandglennda — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

We arrived in Isla after 4 days of major wind changes: experiencing everything from no wind to too much wind. We were ready to celebrate and wanted to go and EAT. We knew that our favourite place to eat, Rene y Rennee, would be closed on Sunday. However, we had a joyous meeting with them for lunch on Monday and in the maeantime found a wonderful brunch buffett for $7.50US.
Fruit just doesn't taste any better than here in Isla!

This picture shows the first point of land that we had seen in 4 days. A very welcome site indeed!!

There were new cruisers to meet and lots of parties ahead, but these had to wait until after we had a sleep!

With the marina full of boats and all of the apartments rented, a community pot luck supper seemed in order. Jamie and Julio,the mangagers of el Milagro Marina, BBQ'd snapper and grouper for us to share and everyone brought a dish to contribute. Afterwards, the locals couldn't resist trying to teach us how to Salsa. What a laugh!!!

Before moving south we decided to visit Isla Contoy which a National Park which is a good place to see many of Mexico's birds and fish.

At anchor

While anchored here watching the sunset, we were treated to a wonderful work of nature. Pinpoints of light bagan to appear all around which resembled fireflies being seen in the water. As we watched, the number grew to over a hundred and then possibly two hundred or more. Our flashlights revealed a small gelatinous body, so we thought we might be seeing a species of jelly-fish, but none of our nature guides had any reference to such a phenomena. Within an hour they were all gone again as suddenly as they had appeared. The naturalists later told us that we had seen a type of snail. Wouldn't it be neat to have some of those in your aquarium!

Leaving the USA

bobandglennda — Thu, 26 Feb 2009 00:00:00 GMT

After an intense month of working on our 37' Irwin Sailing Sloop, December 30, 2008 was departure day. I know. I know. The next day was New Years evening. However, the wather was perfect for a 4 day crossing to Mexico, we had: crew, food, water and diesel, so we were OFF!! Captain Bob just couldn't wait another day!

Down the canal to Mark and Rosemary's

At 3:00 am we started the 50 horsepower engine in order to motor down the freshwater canal to the lock that would allow us to enter Charlotte Harbor proper with its salt water. We made the lock at 4:00 a.m. just in time to pass through the very shallow waters outside of the lock on a full tide.

Two Captains with Captain in Training!

For Sarah, our young friend,taking a gap year before university, this was her first major sailing trip ever. Her previous sailing experience consisted of weekend afternoon jaunts on our previous boat on the St. Lawrence River. We really appreciated her enthusiasm to come with us and assist

Are you sure that everything has a place?!!!!!

us all to expand our horizons.

Sarah waiting her first turn on the wheel

Our good friend, and professional captain, Mark had previously crossed the Gulf of Mexico with us two years earlier. Mark's energy meant that we had very little work to do in the first few hours of the crossing.

Watching the land disappear through the mists of dawn is always an awesome experience and this time, it was spectacular. Still totally wound with excitement, we all passed the majority of the day in the cockpit.

As head cook and bottle washer, I had a hot time of it in the galley. As we moved further out into the Gulf we started to roll and pitch slightly, as we continued to pick up speed. Suddenly, after 30 years of sailing I discovered the meaning of being 'sea sick', in a very personal way.

By the next day, I had once again found my sea legs and was in stride again, but all of us found it a struggle to stay up until midnight to wish each other Happy New Year!