After a short hike around, we walked to the visitor’s Center shortly after it opened, and good thing we did as many of the tours were sold out well in advance, and those that hadn’t been were selling out fast. But, we were able to get tickets for the one we wanted, the two hour “Heritage Tour.”

Well, Mammoth Cave is spectacular, by far my favorite cave to date (although Ellery still prefers The Caves we saw in Belize). And the tour was great; the Ranger described in wonderful detail how people have been touring the cave, and writing their names on the walls and ceilings, since the early 1800’s. And the fact that it was cool in the cave – compared to the 100 degrees plus temperatures that have followed us throughout this trip – was an added bonus.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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So, a quick diversion there, and back on the road. And what a road! Through Versailles and Lexington, some of the most beautiful horse country I could have imagined, and then through the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, finally stopping for the night in a huge Days Motel on the top of a hill that appears to cater to the hundreds of people who come to this lake region for a weekend (or more) of recreation.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Sutton, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Up early, our goal was to see the National Civil Rights Museum first thing in the morning, then head back to the hotel for the 11:00 a.m. duck walk, and from there to Graceland. So, we took the Main Street trolley down to the Lorraine Motel and were there well in advance of the opening time. And yes, I felt very guilty that we rushed through the museum in an hour and a half – it was well worth a longer trip, but Ellery was determined to see the ducks and, well, I wasn’t going to let her down. But, there was a lot to be had in that hour and a half – I had forgotten how well-done the exhibits were, and there was a half-hour film about MLK, Jr.’s last days that was really very good. In the end, the only part of the museum that we gave short shrift to was the portion in the building where James Earl Ray took his shot, dealing with his capture and prosecution.

We did make it back to the Peabody in time for the duck walk, which Ellery dutifully captured on video. It was, indeed, quite fun and I’m glad we saw it.

Then it was back on the road, just a few Miles, to Graceland. Is it wrong that we spent more time at Graceland than at the Civil Rights Museum? Probably, but Graceland is so over-the-top, so kitchy fun, how can you not take the time to see all the gaudiness that was Elvis?

written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Memphis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Ah yes, we started in Kansas City, MO. And we drove east, arriving in St. Louis just around 10:00 a.m. I don’t recall anything about the drive, except that I believe it was rather unimaginative – nothing particularly beautiful or ugly. Just road.

The plan was to drive by the Arch, snap a few photos, and continue on to Memphis in time for the 5 p.m. duck walk at the Peabody Hotel (where I had decided we would spend the night, after our less-than-stellar Holiday Inn experience). But that Arch is pretty alluring – close up and in person, it is pretty magnificent. Since we had made good time, so up we went. (Actually, first you have to go down below the Arch, and then you take a pod-like tram to the top). And I realized that St. Louis is one hell of a big city. Really big. Oh, and the Mississippi River is pretty ugly down here, as compared to up North.

After the Arch we walked along a small historic Riverfront area (in need of some life), ate lunch and got back on the road. But, eeek! Would we make it by 5 p.m.? It was looking iffy but I was determined to make a go of it.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Saint Louis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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So, we checked in, went to the rooftop for a view of Memphis, and then I had my annual meat fix at the Rendez-Vous. Bar-be-que that was definitely worth it.

Then we headed to Beale Street. Everything I remembered and more – the more in this case being Bike Night, a Wednesday night tradition. Hundreds of bikers and bikes. Plus the usual streetside musicians, beer garden bands, and wandering crowds. And “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay” being played and sung at every single bar up and down the street. Really, Memphis didn’t turn out any other song? None?

Well, tomorrow includes a stop at Graceland, so we’ll see if there isn’t another tune or two around.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Memphis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Oh, and we did stay at the same crappy Holiday Inn as the Kansas City Chiefs, back in training after the lock-out ended. Those are some big, big guys.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 26, 2011 from Kansas City, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Yesterday and today were days when I really needed friends; I was amazingly lucky, really, to have them waiting for me in Denver.

While I was sad to see Jordan go, things really did lighten up; it was really the best thing for all of us. I returned to Denver proper and joined Leslie and Ellery for breakfast. Soon, we picked up Gabe and explored the 16th Street Mall in a bit more depth, and made our way to the capital for the obligatory sighting of the mile-high marker (although I’m told there are three of them and no one is really sure which step is a mile high). Eventually, Phil and Rachel also joined us, and we spend several nice hours just hanging by the swimming pool. At which point Ellery suggested that the women all get pedicures so, off we went and had our toes painted.

After saying good-bye to Phil, Leslie, Rachel and Gabe, we returned to our room briefly, but were soon picked up by David and Anne, and we all headed to a very cute little neighborhood overlooking the city for a nice Mexican dinner at Lola, a stroll around the neighborhood, and a drive through various parts of Denver (which included our sighting of a Calatrava bridge under construction – we’ve now seen four Calatravas on three different continents). Denver really is a lovely city; lots of diverse neighborhoods, a solid city Center, and enviable natural beauty.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 25, 2011 from Denver, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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As planned, since Jordan has never seen snow, our morning was set to begin with a 9 a.m. ride up with Jake up the Gondola to the top of Jackson Hole, were there was breakfast of waffles and nutella (Jordan’s proclaimed favorite food), to be followed by frolicking in the snow. Ellery and Jake and I enjoyed all these things amongst some amazing views (which included watching snowboarders make tracks in late July!)

Jordan did not, however, enjoy any of these things. As Ellery and I had come to learn, Jordan is not a morning person, but her mood this morning was as bad as it had ever been. She did not enjoy the ride up the gondola, she did not like the waffle (and yelled at Ellery when Ellery asked how it was), and refused to partake in any reindeer games. It was now clear that, under any circumstances, Jordan was not having fun – whether it was because she is 16, because she was homesick, because she didn’t enjoy our company, or whatever it was, it wasn’t going away. And things did not get any better when I told her that I would tolerate many things, but being rude and mean to Ellery and Jake was not one of them.

This resulted in a crying fit of significant proportions, a lengthy conversation with someone about how I was treating her like a 12 year old (earth to Jordan – even adults like snowball fights in July) purposely made within my earshot, and, unfortunately, a 9 hour drive through beautiful Shoshone National Forest, with amazing wide open green pastures, and the Wind River Canyon, with striking red rocks, in complete, steaming, angry silence. And then another 7 hours of the most boring drive I have ever made (really, worse than Kansas or Texas). As much as I kept telling myself that this was merely moody teenager behavior, or that it would pass, I was pretty overwhelmed by her anger, even when she decided not to participate in the ritual cross-the-state-border photo (a ritual that she, herself, initiated).

Fortunately, relief was waiting in Denver, in two magnificent forms – the Lynch/Hyman family from Texas and David Picker and his girlfriend Anne. So, after checking into a beautifully large room at the Westin, Ellery and I (without Jordan, who chose to stay in the hotel and have room service – a choice I did not dissuade her from) met up with Leslie, Phil, Rachel and Gabe for a very nice and enjoyable dinner at a restaurant on the 16th Street mall. Then, while the kids went up to Phil and Leslie’s hotel room, we met up with David and Anne for drinks, where I promptly cried my eyes out over the stress of the day, which they allowed me to do, along with offering me various theories of what was going on, all aimed at making me feel better. And when I said, “Really, I’d love to just put her on a plane home, but I don’t want it to end this way,” Phil said, quite wisely, “Why don’t you just offer her the opportunity to go home?” I thought about it, and realized that despite the fact that I had wanted to see this trip through, really, that was the simplest solution. If she said yes, it would make us all happier; if she said no, it meant that she was committed to the trip and, hopefully, would be happier about it.

So, we came back to the room and I asked her. “Do you want to send me home?” she asked. “No, I don’t, but I’m giving you the opportunity to go home.” “Well, if you don’t want to send me home, then don’t.” OK, I thought, she wants to stay. It isn’t as bad for her as it seems. But just a few minutes later, she piped up, “There’s a 10:30 flight but I can’t change my ticket.” So, that was the answer – and it was OK. She was homesick, she wasn’t enjoying herself, she definitely wanted to go home. I bought the plane ticket.

Throughout the night, I thought maybe she would change her mind in the a.m., but that would be OK too.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 24, 2011 from Denver, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Oh, but what a drive. I seriously did not expect the Tetons to be as beautiful as they were. Pictures do the best talking here (especially since the girls are now, evidently, "bored" with mountains).

Having made it to Moose in record time, we waited for the Thompsons at the Visitors Center before heading off for our float trip, which offered even more fabulous views of the mountains as well as a bald eagle or two.

On our way back to Teton Village, we finally got a good look at a moose – a young male, not very large, but still impressive.

Then it was time to check into our hotel, the Snake River Lodge, a very nice place. Ellery and Jake then headed off for a horseback ride, Jordan to the room to do whatever it is she does on the computer, and me to the spa for a quick 20 minute massage. Heaven.

The kids then spent some time swimming and the day eventually ended with a very nice dinner together at the Mangy Moose, after which Ellery went back to Jake’s hotel for a last late night swim.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 23, 2011 from Teton Village, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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