In Ura, we stopped first at the monastery, where a crowd was gathered in the courtyard to elect a new caretaker. Walking through the town, we happened upon a ritual for someone's health; corn, grain, meat and mushrooms drying; a woman beating wheat from the stalk; and another old woman spinning thread. And Ellery somehow managed to find the only western toilet in town.

Then we went to the local school where Dorji's sister is a student. We visited several classes. As in Africa, we were surrounded by school children who wanted their photos taken.

A picnic on the side of the road on the way back and a stop at a second school where Ellery played soccer with the children rounded out the side trip.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Ura, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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The evening capped off wonderfully. Ellery made some friends and taught them tag and then they had a "play date" in our room where they drew pictures for one another and Ellery shared some of the toys that she had brought on the trip while our Italian friends cooked a terrific pasta dinner with "fixings" they had brought from home. And finally Ellery ate something other than rice!

written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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The first calley we came to was Chhume, which at the time was without water or electricity. We stopped only briefly here at a weaving facility before heading over Kiki La to Jakar in the Choskhor Valley.

Our first stop was Tamshing Goemba, with probably the oldest wall paintings we've seen yet. But most amazing was a sand mandolin being worked on by one of the monks. It is truly a shame that I couldn't take a photo of it. And, sadly, it won't be preserved -- after a ceremony in which it is used, it is scattered to the wind. Also inside was a large colleciton of masks, drums and black hats used during the festivals.

We then drove by a small temple with a monolith in front (konchogsum), said to be one of the oldest in the valley. From there we went to the dzong, which was rather empty and far simpler than the others we've seen. Then we went to Kurjey Lkakhang, where the main temple featured the imprint of Guru Rimpoche in the mountain. Next was Jampa Lhakhang, another very old temple with a "mate" in Paro (Kyichu).

Our next stop was one of the funniest. Walking around an old abandoned palace, Wangdichholing, we noticed several young monks running up a flight of stairs. We followed, passing many pairs of abandoned sandals. Eventually, passing through two rooms, we came upon the young monks -- all huddled around a television watching a Bollywood movie! Apparently, they were taking advantage of the fact that their master was away.

We then took a short walk through the town of Jakar until reaching the final stop of the day, Kharchu Monastery, where we were met by another surprise -- two comedians entertaining the monks. Ellery danced around to their music and I think was as much of a show for the monks as were the comedians.

At evening, we were joined at the hotel by a couple from Italy (although she was originally from Malaga, Spain) and had enjoyable conversation until bed.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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The roadsides were covered with bamboo and eventually we stopped to take a short walk through beautiful fields to a small village. It was wonderful to watch Ellery running on the path through the fields of mustard. Although we were hoping to see some yaks, they were much further up the mountains. In the village, we were treated to a tour of a real farmhouse -- much better than the folk museum.

Continuing by car, past women making and selling bamboo mats pressed by the passing cars and passing many waterfalls, we soon arrived at our lunch stop - a relatively new restaurant in the middle of nowhere.

More driving, until we eventually spotted Trongsa (Tongsa) Dzong hanging on top of a mountain. (At the viewpoint, Ellery lost her camera -- it was bound to happen). Although it seemed that we were close to Trongsa, it was another half an hour or so until we reached the dzong.

Unlike the other dzongs we visited, this one was almost completely empty, giving it a very different feel. We didn't stay there long before heading to our hotel, by far the nicest one to date. We weren't here alone -- a woman from the Netherlands working for the Department of Tourism was waiting for a group of 15 guides that she was going to take on a new trek. We had a very pleasant early evening sitting on the terrace, drinking coffee and talking. Dinner with Palden included a nice wine, and Ellery and Dorji are becoming fast friends.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2006 from Tongsa, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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We passed at least one hillside monastery and many villages and water-driven prayer wheels. The fog was thick for much of the drive, giving the rugged high jungle (and it was jungle) an eerie beauty. We eventually descended into the rice patty valley.

After lunch at our hotel, we continued on to the dzong (the fortress of happiness), a large, imposing structure in the valley. The main courtyard holds a large bodhi tree. The young monks were praying as we passed through on our way to the main temple. Although relatively new, it was spectacular, with 3 enormous buddhas, magnificently painted walls and gold pillars. We also climbed ot the top of the tower and visited two more temples before leaving the dzong.

Our final stop of the day was a short walk through the rice patties and a tiny village to a small temple called Chimi Lhaking, where we received a fertility blessing using an arrow and phallus (not that either Ellery or I are looking to be fertile right now). There was much praying going on inside -- throughout this trip was have chanced on several special prayer days/ceremonies as it appears we are traveling during certain auspicious days.

When we returned to the hotel, we found a group of Thai tourists who were a welcome diversion.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2006 from Punakha, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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Then it was a wonderful, albeit muddy, two hour walk back to Thimphu, passing farmhouses, Tibetan villages, a painting school, and farmers bringing their crops (such as potatoes) to market. Although I didn't write much about it, it was fantastic -- beautiful, mystical.

Back in Thimphu I bought myself a half-kira and jacket, and then had dinner a the hotel. I spent much of the evening sitting outside, smoking and talking with the hotel manager -- the type of experiences I relish.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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Our first stop of the day was the National Memorial Chorten, building in memory of the Third King. Four stories tall and amazing statuary in the middle. Many pilgrims were circling the chorten and we spent a fair amount of time here.

(Notes: missing a site/sight -- Dechen Phadrang/neck cords??)

Then it was up to the remains of the zoo, which is now just a sanctuary for the Takin, the national animal, which appears to be a mix of goat and yak. Then we went up to the telecom tower for the view of Thimphu and the many, many prayer flags.

The drive down offered terrific views of the modern dzong and lead us to the Sangay Traditional Arts and Crafts School. We watched students learning a variety of crafts -- Ellery was most taken with the sculpting. Then to shopping and the Folk Heritage Museum -- a replica of a traditional farmhouse.

After lunch, Palden's wife took us shopping for a kira for Ellery, which she loves, and so do I. Then it was time for a small trek.

First we drove to our campsite along the Wang Chhu. Along the way we passed a rock with the largest painting of a buddha I think I've ever seen. Our campsite was just over the river from the road by way of an old covered bridge from the road. After tea, we hiked up a steep trail to the Cheri Goemba (monastery), where advanced monks now study. Imagine being in a Buddhist monastery in the Himalayan Mountains!

Our arrival at the Monastery was enhanced by seeing a barking deer, a mountain goat on the monastery tower and, best of all, several langurs (monkeys). We toured the temple, saw the monks at prayer and had tea, before heading back down.

A hearty river-side dinner capped off the day.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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The drive from Chhuzom was uneventful -- food stalls along the way.

After checking int othe hotel and having a late lunch, we visited the Textile Museum, which Ellery enjoyed, and the paper-making factory, where Ellery bought a small scroll. The textile weaving, something Bhutan is known for, was very fine. There was a spectacular embroidered square that had taken 2 men one year to make.

Ellery and I then walked the main street of Thimphu. It didn't smell all the great, but that didn't stop Ellery from making friends with many small dogs. We visited a handcrafts store and had dinner at the hotel.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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