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and one last trip before we come home.........?
a travel blog by
chrishoorweg
Hi there all,
This is going to follow our 4 month trip through South America.
Hope that you enjoy reading our adventures!!
Chris and Corinne x
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A white city, a brown town and Condors
Arequipa
,
Peru
Coffee break Arequipa
After an overnight bus from Cusco we made it into Arequipa at around 530am!! We thought that we were to arrive at around 7, but we were early.
We took a taxi to our hostel and were dumped on the street outside. After 5 minutes of ringing the door bell, we were feeling a little exposed and wandering what to do? However, after a couple more minutes whilst consulting our Lonely Planet, the door opened and we were shown inside. Phew!!!
Main square Arequipa
Arequipa itself is a lovely town, built mainly of volcanic stone (sillar), hence the name of the white city. It has a great backdrop consiting of a volcanoe (El Misti 5822m) and a number of big mountains, such as (Chachani 6075m and Picchu Picchu 5571m).
We really enjoyed the vibe of Arequipa. Compared to Cusco it was very laid back. We had a great day wandering around the Santa Catalina Monastery in the city, which we pretty much had to ourselves.
After deciding not to climb the big mountains, I (Chris) decided that going into the Colca Canyon was a good idea. (It is the deepest canyon in the world and there are Condors to be seen). Of course I wanted to get there!
Colca Canyon
Getting to Cabanaconde entailed a 5.5 hour bus ride, which took us over one of the highest roads being 4800m. A very scenic drive, where we saw wild Llamas and Vicuñas.
Street scene Cabanaconde
Cabanaconde is a very small adobe village, although it does have its Plaza de Armas!! We arrived at around lunch time and found ourselves the best hostel in the place (there was only really two to choose from!) For those that don´t know, Adobe just means that the houses are made from mud, hence looking quite rustic.
Corinne in Cabanaconde
We were planning on hiking into the canyon to visit the Oasis, however Corinne wasn´t really feeling up to it, so we decided that we´d only stay the one night there intead of two and go see the Condors in the morning on our way back to Arequipa.
Condor in flight
The Condors were amazing. They really are huge animals with a wing span of around 2m and seem to effortlessly glide on the thermal currents. We spent a good hour and a half watching them take off and cruise around. we were surprised as to how close they got.
Flight of the Condor
Flight of the Condors
After our bird watching we headed back on the local bus to Chivay, where we spent an hour waiting for the next bus to Arequipa. Although the birds were great, we were thinking at the end of the 11hr round trip if they were worth it!!
Entrance to Monastery
Another interesting thing we did in Arequipa was to see ´Juanita´ the ice princess at the Museo Santuarios Andinos. She is a frozen Inca maiden who was sacrificed on the summit of Mt Ampato over 500 years ago. Considering how old she is, she looks great!! You can see most of her facial features, nails and hair.
Santa Catalina Monastery
All in all, we had a very nice time relaxing in Arequipa, sampling some of the local dishes, including llama. We also found a good burger joint, which helped settle our upset tummies!! Nothing like a good ´ol burger to put things right!!
Next stop, Puno, Puno, Puno...... (for those who have travelled these parts do you recall the crazy bus touts calling out?)
We hope you are all keeping well. Keep the comments coming.
Lots of love,
Chris and Corinne xx
Santa Catalina
Creative Corinne shot
written by
chrishoorweg
on September 20, 2007
from
Arequipa
,
Peru
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Arequipa
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A big lake way up in the sky.....
Copacabana
,
Bolivia
Festivities Puno
We arrived into Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca (highest navigable lake in the world 3820m), late in the afternoon. We were not particularly taken by this little city so we were happy to have been here whilst the ´Lady of Mercy´ festival was on. Many types of traditional dance were being displayed including Aymara.
Traditional hair style Puno
Mother and child Puno
Floating Uros Islands
The next day we went out to the floating islands of the Uros people. Although they were very touristy it was still very interesting to learn about how they make and sustain the islands. For those who haven´t been her they make the islands out of the reeds that grow in the shallows of the lake. They then replace the reeds from the top. It was rather disconcerting as it was rather spongy under foot.
Boat docked
Lady of the Uros Islands
Boat ramp
Instead of staying here longer we decided to head to the Bolivian side of the lake,
Copacabana
, as we had heard from many travellers that it was much nicer. They were absolutely correct. It very much reminded us of
Greece
and
Croatia
- very mediteranean. We headed out to
Isla del Sol
(the island of the sun), the Inca creation site and birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology.
Cactus Isla del Sol
Tadar!
We checked out all the ruins and then hiked from the north of the island to the south. The views were stunning and the water so blue. Acclimatized now, we got up the hills fairly easily. We were going to stay the night but felt we had seen and experienced it enough and wanted to move onto La Paz so we could connect with our train to Uyuni.
Us at Puma stone
Isla del Sol Lake Titicaca
Bus ferry!
Chris chilling
written by
chrishoorweg
on September 23, 2007
from
Copacabana
,
Bolivia
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Salt plains, 4WD and brrrrr.........
Uyuni
,
Bolivia
Transportation for 3 days
Some of the frustrating things about travelling in South America, is the Bus or train timetables!! Particularly in Bolivia. For us, we wanted to get the train from La Paz to Uyuni to start a 4WD Salt plains tour. Unfortunately, the train only runs twice a week (the other option, is to do an overnight bus which we´ve heard is a nightmare), so we had to rush La Paz a bit. We only had a day and a half, so unfortunately didn´t get to see a whole lot. If we hadn´t of left when we did, we would have had to stay for another 5 days.
Salt ´factory´ - tummy bugs start here!
La Paz is the highest capital city in the world at 3680m and is built within a canyon, approx 5km from rim to rim. A lot of the houses are unfinished without exterior paint. This gives the place a bit of a run down and shabby appearance. We later discovered that if the house is not ´finished´then the owner doesn´t have to pay tax on it!!
We wandered around and experienced many of the colourful markets.
Jumping for joy
Our next main attraction was our Salt plains tour from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. This tour was causing us anxiety, as we´d heard many stories of drunk drivers, poor food if any and cars breaking down......
We researched as much as possible and found a company with the least amount of complaints, paid our money and crossed our fingers.....
Blow me a kiss xxxx
Toñito tours proved to be quite good. We ended up with a group of 4 Aussie girls in their early twenties sharing our jeep, so there was plenty of talking going on!! They were a good bunch of girls who´d between them had seen large part of the world!!! Impressive for there age.
Trickery, good girl.....
Rock formations
The trip was well worth all the effort. The scenery was some of the most dramatic and interesting we´ve seen.
The Salar de Uyuni is a massive salt desert, with white salt as far as the eye can see. We had lots of fun taking the usual trick photography shots.
Cactus Fish Island
In the middle of the salt desert, there is an island ´Isla de Pescado´ or Fish island to you and me. It is a volcanic island, with remains of coral and most importantly and famously has giant Cactus growing on it. It was amazing to say the least.
From there we saw other rock formations and picturesque lakes with perfect reflections in them, in particular, Laguna Verde was the most impressive for that reason.
Laguna Colorado
We stayed at Laguna Colorado on our final night, which was pretty cold (-10, we were happy that we´d brought our lovely sleeping bags!!). Laguna Colorado is a red lake, fed by a natural hot spring. It has Flamingos as well as a massive amount of brilliantly white Borax. We hope our photos have been able to capture how amazing this part of the world is.
Reflection of mountain
We had our transfer into San Pedro with a Chilean driver, who quite happily announced ´welcome back to civilisation´. Cheeky bugger. However, we did sit back and enjoy the paved roads! Incredible what you take for granted.
Vicuñas
Jumping Laguna Colorado
Exploding Geyser
Thermal Pools
Geysers at Sunrise
Laguna Verde
Flying Flamingo
Salt Pan
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 2, 2007
from
Uyuni
,
Bolivia
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Gaucho country - yee haa!
Salta
,
Argentina
Main square Salta
San Pedro is a tiny little village in the Atacama Desert which is surrounded by some spectacular scenery. It was a cool experience just being here in the driest desert in the world. We had a couple of days to recoup from Bolivia and then were off again heading to Salta in Northern Argentina. We were relieved to get seats for the next bus, only 3 leave a week, and so we endured a 14 hour bus ride to Gaucho country. It wasn´t that bad really. The only annoying thing was that Chris left his head phones on the bus and we have´t been able to find the right adaptor since - so he is without music (all of you know what this means for me!:)
Riding amongst the tabacco plantation
Salta is a beautiful colonial city with gorgeous weather and buildings. We spent a few days looking around, chilling out having coffee on the main plaza and eating copious amounts of the glorious icecream and not to mention the steaks and Argentinian wines! Yep, we were in heaven!! We thought, yes, we can justify eating continously for 2 days as we had lost a bit of weight travelling through Peru and Bolivia. We did pull ourselves away from the cafes to go on the gondola to get a good view of the city.
Giddy up
So, as we were in Gaucho country we thought it was only right to go horse riding. Chris did try and convince me that he needed another cowboy hat as he had done in Vegas but I convinced him otherwise! However, that hat has come in handy for a few dress up parties.
Our guide
We spent a day and night on a ranch owned by a lovely Argentinian man who was very hospitable and fed us so much barbecued meat and red wine for lunch that it was hard work getting on the horses in the afternoon. Surprisingly, or not, we had a new found confidence and were galloping around everywhere! It was great fun. After a very peaceful nights sleep we met up in the local village with an organised tour company to go to Cafayate and explore the surrounding mountains and canyons. As you all know Chris and I are not too keen on organised tours and this reminded us why! The scenery was fantastic, however, being shuttled around with 20 other middle aged tourists is not our idea of a good time. He he.
Road side views
The wineries we visited were fab. We tasted some very nice malbecs and of course could not leave without purchasing a few bottles.
Devils Throat
Overall, our time in Northern Argentina was thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing. We look forward to our return later in November for some more steak, wine and mountains of a different kind.
Cafayate winery
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 4, 2007
from
Salta
,
Argentina
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Geez that´s a lot of water!
Foz do Iguacu
,
Brazil
Iguazu Falls
27 hours later we arrived fresh as daisies in
Puerto Iguazu
- NOT!! We couldn´t believe that we had just spent that amount of time on a bus. We could have flown to Aus easily in that time. However, we were certainly well and truly rewarded for our brave or some might say crazy efforts.
Second Falls
The Argentinian side of the falls were spectacular. Can´t really explain it in words - best to try and let the photos do the talking. We had a great time getting up close and personal to the falls via pathways through the jungle. Chris took me on a speed boat ride for my birthday present. They took us right underneath a number of the falls and consequently we got absolutely soaked. It was brilliant! We then went over to the small island in the middle to dry off and whilst there went for a small hike to see the flora and fauna.
Spot the speedboat!!!
At the top of Devils throat
The second highlight of the day was seeing the falls at the devils throat. From the viewpoint it was like standing on the edge of the world. Sounds a little corny but it really is the best way to describe it. The immense amount of water pounding over the edge was so loud you had to shout to hear each other. Chris and I thought it made
Niagara Falls
look a little like a garden fountain. Don´t get us wrong, they were amazing to see as well, but just didn´t compare to this.
Devils Throat
Devils Throat
We also got to see the falls from the Brazilian side. It was worth seeing from both sides as from here we got an overall perspective. We spent the night in a lovely spa hotel which was only a ten minute walk from the falls. A treat for my birthday. It was very nice to have a bit of luxury.
Devils Throat from Brazilian side
Gecko
Next stop - Rio baby!
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 8, 2007
from
Foz do Iguacu
,
Brazil
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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When my baby smiles at me I go to Rio!
Rio de Janeiro
,
Brazil
JC
Couldn´t help the title - can´t help singing it as well!!
We were wise this time and got a flight instead of hauling ourselves through another 24 hour bus ride. Our butts just couldn´t take it!
Us at Maracana stadium
As we were a week ahead of schedule we decided to head a little further north for a few days to a place called Buzios. The plan was to spend some time chilling out and swimming. The chilling out happened as the water was freezing. You would need a 5mm wetsuit to get in that water! We found out that at this time of the year a cold current comes through from Argentina consequently making the water a balmy 15 degrees. Brrrr! It was rather frustrating as the water was beautiful and clear and the air temperature was around 30. Chris was brave and jumped in but when I saw how fast he got out there was no way I was getting in.
Us with the big fella
The coastline is stunning with gorgeous protected coves, white sand and torquise water. Even though it was beautiful, we only spent 2 days here and instead decided to head back to Rio with the plan of finding warm water.
We originally planned to Stay in Ipanema, however, as we were a week early and it was a long weekend in Brazil, our hotel couldn´t put us up. We quickly looked up our trusty hostel booking site and found the only double room available in Copacabana and took it!!
Ipanema beach
Copacabana is justifiably the most famous city beach in the world. It really is stunning with 4.5km´s of fluffy white sand, bluffs at each end and beautiful people everywhere in tiny swimsuits. What scenery. The only thing detracting from the beauty of the beach is the concrete jungle behind it. It´s a bit of a dive and unsafe at night. During the day though it was totally fine.
Ipanema beach sunset
Ipanema from above
After a few nights we were able to get into our original hotel in Ipanema, so we changed camps. What a difference this made to our experience. Ipanema is a lot nicer with cafes, bars and live music. The beach is better too, with cleaner water and less dodgy people. Amazing what only a couple of hundred meters makes!! Copa and Ipanema are separated by a rocky point.
We spent a day on each beach sunning ourselves, however, the water was still freezing!! So swimming was pretty much out of the question, sunbathing and getting sunburnt was not!!! (After living in England for so long I think our skin has forgotten what sun is!)
We spent a day going up to Corcovado with Christ the Redeemer looking over with his arms stretched out over the city. From here we could appreciate why Rio is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Surrounded by lush green mountains, perfect white sand and islands off the shoreline. Truly amazing.
We were also able to catch a local football match between two Rio teams, Vasco and Botafogo, at Maracana stadium. The stadium is impressive. Holding 100,000 people at capacity; it would be a fantastic venue to watch a packed out event.
Vasco supporters
The game we were at had 23,000 people, however it sounded like over 60,000!! The fans certainly are passionate. Each teams supporters end had drums, flags and occasionally let off flares in their teams colours. It was a spectacle that´s for sure and one we won´t forget for a while. We were almost tempted to stay in Rio for a few more days to come back to Maracana, where Brazil were going to play Uruguay in a friendly match. Instead, we watched it on the telly in a bar in Salvador. It looked like it would have been amazing to be there!!
The happy couple
Our efforts to find warmer water culminated in being told about the state of Bahia, the capital being Salvador which is in the North East. We have decided to go there and then find a tropical island to rest our weary travellers feet.
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 16, 2007
from
Rio de Janeiro
,
Brazil
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Rio
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one havaina, two havaina, three havaina, four
Salvador
,
Brazil
Shrimps anyone?
Arriving into Salvador on a late night flight from Rio, we caught a taxi into our hostel accommodation in the swanky suburb of Barra. This turned out to be a great choice for us, as it is one of the safest areas of salvador.
Barra is a beachside suburb at the head of the bay of Salvador. Our quest to find warmer water was successful!!! Yay. Needless to say we were very happy with that. The water was like a warm bath and the coastline is among the most beautiful in the world.
Pelourinho
Most of the guide books that we read said to devote a good week exploring the Pelourinho area(historical centre) because it is really interesting. We found that an afternoon was enough!! Unfortunately, we got harrassed a bit by two fellas. At first, one of them came up to us to 'offer' his guiding services. He clearly wasn't a guide, so we politely declined. He then got quite aggressive with us. Not really nice, so we walked away. Within five minutes another guy came up to us offering his services once more. Well, he started telling his life story and then when he asked for money off us, we declined, then he again got aggressive. This was all in front of the police mind you!! So we decided that it wasn't too safe an area for us.
The historical centre wasn't that interesting anyway. We read that up until only 10 or so years ago, it was neglected and was completely run down and very unsafe. So basically most of the buildings are in bad repair and not that nice to look at. the biggest single attraction is an art deco elevator that links the upper and lower city!! That should give you an idea.
Watch your step
Catch of the day!
As we didn't feel that safe, we decided not to explore the nightlife , unfortunately, which salvador is apparently renowned for. We did however sample a lot of the street side food stores or Bainas. These are run by large ladies who wear all white. The main staple of the food is seafood and a shrimp paste made with a local grain. It is really good and cheap.
Anima Hotel Morro
Our next stop was to go to some islands for our half time break. We decided on Morro de Sao Paulo and another island called Biopeba. Whilst here we really discovered the delights of Bahian food. Some typical traditional dishes are Moqueca (a seafood stew), Bobo ( a seafood stew with coconut and coriander, not too dissimilar to a Thai green curry without the curry!) and plenty of fresh grilled fish. The fruit is some of the best we´ve ever tasted, particularly the pinapple which was just so juicy and sweet. Mmmmm
Cheers!
Our little bungalow
Lobster lunch
Morro is one of the most famous islands in the state of Bahia. Most notably the second beach, as it's called, is one of Brazils top beaches. We didn't stay there though, as it is totally built up and the guide books warned of loud parties going on all night. We wanted a relaxing time and sleep!!!
Who has the football?
Lovin´ the combi!
So we decided on a boutique hotel on Fourth Beach. It was lovely and definitely a splurge for us. After our 5 nights there and eating as we did, we had put on all the weight we'd lost in Peru and Bolivia and also added a few extra kilo's!!! It was totally relaxing, with a long beach (about 5km's) and we were pretty much by ourselves most of the time! Paradise. Our bungalow had its own private jacuzzi which was fantastic.
View from hotel
Cheers!
Crossing between the islands
After our nights there, we went to Boipeba and stayed in a lovely guesthouse run by two American brothers. It was about half the cost of the other place, but simply lovely as well.
Paradise
We did some beautiful long walks, discovering little secluded coves and just reading a lot, sunbaking and of course swimming. Again, the food was amazing.
One advantage to Brazil, on top of everthing else, is that the flip flops (Havaina brand) are made here, so therefore very cheap. We have now got a pretty good collection going on.
One havaiana, two havaiana, three havaiana more!
Essentially, our time in Bahia was lovely and now we are completely relaxed and ready for the second half of our trip. Bring it on...
Hammock style
Till next time.
C and C x
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 18, 2007
from
Salvador
,
Brazil
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Salvador
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Sao Paulo
,
Brazil
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 30, 2007
from
Sao Paulo
,
Brazil
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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An unexpectedly nice place...
Santiago
,
Chile
Our flight to the other side of the continent was uneventful, saying good bye to the sun was very difficult that´s for sure!!
Plaza de Armas Santiago
Santiago
, the capital of
Chile
, has been unexpectedly nice. We had read that this city was not much to look at. Well, we´ve had a really great time here, mostly because it feels safe.
We had a bit of a wander around and noticed that there wasn´t that many people about, until we got to an excellent little coffee shop and asked where everyone was. Apparently it was a public holiday, so no-one was working. We got to walk the city almost as a ghost town. Even though there was not many people around, it still felt safe with nobody harrassing you or trying to sell you something or get money off you. Normal life again!!
One dollar icecream. Too much even for Chrissy!!
Admittedly, there aren´t a lot of sights to see, however each neighbourhood has its own feel and flair. We are staying in a lovely suburb called
Bellavista
, which is an arty suburb with a Bohemian feel. It contains one of the cities Universities and has lots of restaurants and bars. The people are cool and very friendly. We´ve had a couple of nice bottles of wine with our meals and the food is very well priced and great quality.
From here we are heading to
Pucon
on an overnight bus, where we will try and climb Volcan Villarica in a couple of days if everything works out weather wise.
Will write when we can as we expect to be on the move quite a lot over the next few weeks, so may not be able to update often.
Till then ....xx
written by
chrishoorweg
on October 31, 2007
from
Santiago
,
Chile
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
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Santiago
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Crampons, ice axes and an active volcano!
Pucon
,
Chile
Bus ride from Santiago to Pucon, luxury!!
After an overnight bus from Santiago we arrived early morning into Pucon, in the Chilean lakes district. An area consisting of numerous glacial fed lakes and the most exciting - volcanoes!! The time had arrived for us to try and tackle climbing the active Volcan Villarica, 2800m. We spent our first day checking out Pucon itself. It reminded us very much of the little towns in the Austrian Alps where the buildings are cedar clad. We went for a leisurely walk along the lake shore. We were convinced that the people we saw most definately must come from a very, very cold climate. As we were wrapped up in our puffer jackets they were in the freezing cold water - yes that´s right - going for a swim!! As you do apparently!! We decided not to - at least today anyway...... After a carb loaded dinner we headed off for an early night in preparation for our climb.
Volcan Villarica from Pucon
Volcan Villarica from Pucon
Geared up and ready to go!
The alarm sounded at the ungodly hour of 4am and we dragged ourselves out of bed and put on all our gear for our 430 pick up. We headed out into the dark and the cold to see that no-one else was waiting. Eventually people surfaced out of their rooms and let us know that we weren´t actually leaving till 5am!! How come no-one told us??
Onwards and Upwards
View from Villarica, a little steep!!
After a half an hour drive we arrived at the base of the volcano. We were given sliding pants, more on that later, ice axes and crampons. We loaded this all into our back packs and headed off up the volcano in single file. The climb started in a valley at 1300m with a gradual ascent. However, walking in the snow is no easy task and by the time we got to our first break an hour and half later, we were all very much feeling it! At this point we put on our crampons and continued on uphill for another 40 mins. The terrain was starting to get rather steep and icy. At the second break we were taught how to stop ourselves from falling off the volcano if we fell!! What?? Did we hear that right? Basically what you have to do is roll yourself very quickly over onto your stomach, lift your feet up so the crampons don´t dig into the ice and consequently flip you over in a backward sommersault, jam the ice axe in and pray!! After we all practiced this a few times we were allowed to continue. Yeah, we think!
View from Villarica
The climb started to get very steep from this point and very, very windy. It was rather disconcerting being almost knocked over by the wind and having to lean into the volcano to rebalance yourself. The guides made us all pause for a moment as they reassessed our path as the smoke from the volcano was blowing straight into it. Consequently we had to divert and go up a steeper section - this is when it got very scary. I kept telling myself I can do it and to not look down. So what did I do? Yep, I looked down, but only the once. After about 5 minutes I turnt around to Chris and said ´Í am really scared now´, to which Chris replied ´fear is probably a good thing honey´. I thought that is so sweet but also thought he is crapping himself too!! We both battled on past the really steep part and made it to our next stop, which was 400m from the top. The guides reassessed our situation and made the decision this was as far as we were to go as the wind was too strong and blowing the smoke dangerously towards us.
Not far from the top
We were both dissapointed that we wern´t able to see the molten lava inside the crater but were very happy at the same time not to go any further as it did look dangerous and we could smell the sulphur. The views were amazing with a number of lakes and volcanoes in the distance.
Now the fun part! Coming down! We took off our crampons and strapped on our sliding pants. A quick demo on how to stop ourselves using the ice axe and we were off. What took us over 4 hours to climb up only took 45 minutes to slide down. We thought it was a great experience but have decided that snow is there not to climb up but to ski down!
Sliding down!!
Chris´s volcano feet
Next stop San Martin de los Andes. Back into Argentina for more steak and red wine.
written by
chrishoorweg
on November 6, 2007
from
Pucon
,
Chile
from the travel blog:
and one last trip before we come home.........?
tagged
Pucon
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