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Bhutan and India (2006)

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Day 7

Jakar, Bhutan

This morning consisted of another beautiful drive up to the highest pass we'll encounter, Yotong La. From there we headed down into the Bumthang region.

The first calley we came to was Chhume, which at the time was without water or electricity. We stopped only briefly here at a weaving facility before heading over Kiki La to Jakar in the Choskhor Valley.

Our first stop was Tamshing Goemba, with probably the oldest wall paintings we've seen yet. But most amazing was a sand mandolin being worked on by one of the monks. It is truly a shame that I couldn't take a photo of it. And, sadly, it won't be preserved -- after a ceremony in which it is used, it is scattered to the wind. Also inside was a large colleciton of masks, drums and black hats used during the festivals.

We then drove by a small temple with a monolith in front (konchogsum), said to be one of the oldest in the valley. From there we went to the dzong, which was rather empty and far simpler than the others we've seen. Then we went to Kurjey Lkakhang, where the main temple featured the imprint of Guru Rimpoche in the mountain. Next was Jampa Lhakhang, another very old temple with a "mate" in Paro (Kyichu).

Our next stop was one of the funniest. Walking around an old abandoned palace, Wangdichholing, we noticed several young monks running up a flight of stairs. We followed, passing many pairs of abandoned sandals. Eventually, passing through two rooms, we came upon the young monks -- all huddled around a television watching a Bollywood movie! Apparently, they were taking advantage of the fact that their master was away.

We then took a short walk through the town of Jakar until reaching the final stop of the day, Kharchu Monastery, where we were met by another surprise -- two comedians entertaining the monks. Ellery danced around to their music and I think was as much of a show for the monks as were the comedians.

At evening, we were joined at the hotel by a couple from Italy (although she was originally from Malaga, Spain) and had enjoyable conversation until bed.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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Day 8

Ura, Bhutan

Today we headed for Ura, another beautifully scenic drive, with views of all four valleys in Bumthang. We skipped the burning lake because the walk was too dangerous for Ellery. (Notes: goats, mani wall at pass).

In Ura, we stopped first at the monastery, where a crowd was gathered in the courtyard to elect a new caretaker. Walking through the town, we happened upon a ritual for someone's health; corn, grain, meat and mushrooms drying; a woman beating wheat from the stalk; and another old woman spinning thread. And Ellery somehow managed to find the only western toilet in town.

Then we went to the local school where Dorji's sister is a student. We visited several classes. As in Africa, we were surrounded by school children who wanted their photos taken.

A picnic on the side of the road on the way back and a stop at a second school where Ellery played soccer with the children rounded out the side trip.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Ura, Bhutan
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Day 8 (Continued)

Jakar, Bhutan

Returning to the hotel, I took a short hike to a very small village above the hotel, passing many children also wanting their photos taken. Palden looked through our purchases from Thimphu -- clearly from the look on his face, I overpaid for the dagger but probably got my money's worth for the prayer book.

The evening capped off wonderfully. Ellery made some friends and taught them tag and then they had a "play date" in our room where they drew pictures for one another and Ellery shared some of the toys that she had brought on the trip while our Italian friends cooked a terrific pasta dinner with "fixings" they had brought from home. And finally Ellery ate something other than rice!



permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan
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Day 9

Jakar, Bhutan

In the morning, Dorji surprised Ellery with a handmade bow and arrow and she spent much of the morning practicing with her little monk friend before we left Jakar.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan
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Day 9 (Continued)

Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan

A long day of driving, beginning with a stop at the Swiss hotel to buy some cheese which Ellery pronounced as wonderful and then much retracing of steps. We stopped again at the weavers at Chhume where Palden selected many items to sell in Thimphu. We crossed Kiki La and Yo Tang La before arriving again at Tongsa. We made a quick stop at the bank and a second attempt to get a photo with the dzong in the background. Lunch was at the same "nowhere" restaurant, where we ran into the Italian/Spanish couple we shared the hotel with and another Italian couple whose path we have crossed before, and who will most likely be our companions for the remainder of the trip.

Eventually we arrived at the Phobjikha Valley and Gangtey Goemba, a very old monastery undergoing renovation. This offered us an amazing opportunity to see all the handiwork that goes into such an effort -- the woodworking, metal craft, etc. We also saw some women practicing a traditional dance and, best of all, an ancient ceremony in the goemba. Again, no photos allowed, and words can't accurately describe the sight of the elderly women lining the walls in the darkened temple, chanting and spinning their prayer wheels, while the monks banged the drums, clapped the cymbals and blew their long trumpets. (I did get audio through my video camera). The ceremony ended with with throwing of rice by all participants and a cacophony of sound.

We then made it to our hotel and after a short rest relaxed in a hot stone bath, a unique experience in which stones are heated in a fire and placed into a small section of a wooden bathtub, which then heats the water in the larger section of the tub. Movement of any kind brings more hot water into the main section. Overall, it was a very relaxing way to end the day.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)
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Day 10

Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan

Another day of retracing our steps and chance experiences. We started with a quick stop at the information building of the black neck crane which migrates through the valley before heading back to Thimphu. Passed a family of monkeys -- macaques -- along the way.

This time we did stop at Wanghi Dzong and were glad we did. We caught the monks practicing their traditional dance for an upcoming festival and saw a relic of the buddha of power.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2006 from Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan
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Day 10 (Continued)

Thimphu, Bhutan

We took more note of our route back the Thimphu this time, stopping to really look at the water prayer wheels, tatas, and flora that we passed along the way.

The evening finished fabulously, with a delightful dinner at Palden's home, with Ellery and I both dressed in our Bhutanese finery.



permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan
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Day 11

Paro, Bhutan

Our final day in Bhutan started with another drive -- this one back to Paro. We made the road opening and stopped for sausages at Chuzzom before heading to our last major destination -- Tiger's Nest Monastery. We opted for the easy way up, being on horseback for about 3/4 of the way, and were glad we did because even the last bit of the walk was very tiring. But we had good company, a Malaysian couple on their honeymoon and trekkers from Michigan.

The monastery was more fascinating from the outside then for the inside since much of it has been recently rebuilt. But the views were fabulous and in keeping with our luck, we were invited to tea with the lama and watched buttercakes being made.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the ruins of an old dzong, drukyel. We did some shopping and had a final night's dinner at a new restaurant called red rice, with Dorji carrying a sleeping Ellery up the steps to our room.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan
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Day 12

New Delhi, India

We woke up very early and bid a fond (truly fond) farewell to Palden and Dorji before catching our plane to New Delhi. Our luck continued as we flew above the clouds and had spectacular views of the snow-capped Himalayas, including Mount Everest.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from New Delhi, India
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Day 12 (Continued)

Agra, India

Upon arrival in New Delhi, we were promptly met at the airport by our driver (no Dorji he) and began the arduous journey to Agra. I had forgotten how dirty, crowded, noisy, congested and completely poverty-ridden India is. It seemed to take forever to get out of New Delhi, and it was very hard on Ellery, especially when the children crowded around our car begging for money.

Even once out of Delhi, things were wretched the entire drive, something I don't recall from my last visit. The stalls, stands, and waste along the roadside was overwhelming, while trucks, cars, bikes, horses, motor rickshaws and even camels vied for space. Cows, bulls, oxen, water Buffalo, sheep and goats lined the road.

Five hours later we arrived at our first stop, Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. where Ellery was far more interested in feeding the monkeys than looking at the architecture. We next stopped at the Agra Fort, which was a disappointment as it had fallen into disrepair since my last visit and was full of etched graffiti.

We got our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal before checking into our hotel and taking a long hot bath before falling asleep.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from Agra, India
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Welcome to my travels. On this site you'll find recent trips and some very old trips. You'll note that for some trips I wrote very detailed reports (at least in the beginning), for others, I didn't even take notes of where I was on what dates. Nevertheless, I've done my best to document, to...

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