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Yunnan, China
a travel blog by
prrrrl
I have two weeks to explore this province. I do not do whirlwind breeze through tours so I will only have time for two or three locations. Come along!
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TLG V Or, what a kick!
Qiaotou
,
China
Corey [my new buddy & temporary travelmate] prefers to press on, on TWO MORE HOURS, to the last guest
House
, Tina's. I'm tired, I'm sick. I can do it! It's mostly down hill which is a killer on my knees. I don't remember if we made in 'time' or not. We crossed a
Waterfall
and were immediately met by a donkey. No, make that two, no, thre... Six? Several had bridles. All, I hoped, were not kickers as there was no space to get out of their way. We were up against
The Rock
wall, they were next to the drop off. I used my Uyghur, 'Chuh,' hoping they are multi-lingual. They peacefull marched in single file across the wettened by
Waterfall
trail. We were not kicked. Downward to Tina's!
written by
prrrrl
on March 8, 2012
from
Qiaotou
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Donkey
,
Downhill
,
Waterfall
,
Trail
,
Chuh
,
Uyghur
and
DropOff
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TLG VII Or, Hot Pot, ya'll??
Qiaotou
,
China
Southern Hot Pot! Why order off the menu when the staff is eating wonderfully warm hot pot one table over. We only get spicy dipping sauce, not the sesame and/or spicy they offer in Beijing, the home of hot pot. [I'm guessing on that one but it is a
North
ern dish.] Veggies and organs are washed & chopped and in tubs on one of the restaurant tables, of these we can help ourselves. We are given the choice of
Chicken
, bones in, or beef for the stock. No lamb? We are definitely not in the
North
! The green veggies are numerous but the scallios disappear before I can grab a plateful. There are glass noodles, too - a favorite of mine. We eat till stuffed. Aaaaahhhh....
Here, rice is rarely served in individual bowls. A wooden bucket, or large bowl of rice is placed on the table for all to share family style. I like it.
written by
prrrrl
on March 8, 2012
from
Qiaotou
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Beijing
,
HotPot
,
North
,
FamilyStyle
,
Organs
,
Veggies
and
Scallions
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TLG VIII Or, big savings!
Qiaotou
,
China
Time to go to Tiger Leaping Rock. Down! We bypass the sky ladder and opt for the safe way down. It is morning and the trail is empty. Most hilkers come from
Halfway
Guesthouse in the morning and add this bit on in the afternoon before hopping the bus to Lijiang or Shangri La. Tuesday totally shattered by 'take it nice & slow' approach to the trek but today should be better. It is windy and cloudy but no rain.
We see people at the bottom already! They are on the large, jutting rock on the left. We explore
The Rock
s on the right first. A mightly powerful
River
through the gorge! The group on the large rock leave. We make our way over. A woman sits by the path up
The Rock
. She wants 10rmb from us. I had asked in advance where exactly we were suppose to pay as locals like to set up signs and road blocks and illegally collect 'passage fees.' If the information I gathered was correct, we do not have to pay her. I tell her so and walk right past her. Corey is too polite. She grabs her cell phone & calls. For back up? For police? For muscle? We'll see. I enjoy the views. Corey pays the fee. I over hear her give a sigh of resignation. Whomever she called did not make her emboldened to confront me. After a bit I leave. She does not follow; back up, police and muscle do not arrive.
I saved myself $1.61.
written by
prrrrl
on March 8, 2012
from
Qiaotou
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Police
,
Trek
,
Muscle
,
Powerful
,
Down
,
PassageFee
and
Polite
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TLG IX Or, no could do
Qiaotou
,
China
Sky ladder! A scary ladder that is about 3 stories high at an angle of 89 degrees, or almost vertical. The rungs are a reach even for me and my long legs. How does the typical Chinese do it? At least the treads are deep. Now I can say I did it.
Back at Tina's level we decide to have an easy horse back riding afternoon. The trail we want to do is called the Bamboo
Forest
. It is suppose to be a highlight of the Tiger Leaping Gorge experience. First we are told 'no can do' because of the
Bridges
& wind - not safe for horses. We end up at a very pleasant looking Tibet Guesthouse for lunch. We inquire about horses again. Sure, they can take you through the Bamboo
Forest
& back to Tina's. Perfect!
No could do. The
Bridges
& wind really didn't allow. We ended up going through Walnut Garden to a very nice look-out high above the gorge. Sure wish I had seen walnut cakes on one of the menus.
written by
prrrrl
on March 8, 2012
from
Qiaotou
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
High
,
Horse
,
Walnut
,
NoCanDo
,
SkyLadder
and
BambooForest
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TLG X Or, free ride
Qiaotou
,
China
The menu at Tina's was not inspiring. Our horse guides [these people are
Mountain
goats - Corey & I rode, they walked the entire trail up & back down without any visible effort!] brought us back to the cozy Tibet Guesthouse for Tibetan food and the promise of a free ride back to Tina's after.
Food was fine. Beer was fine. The sun had long set. But by the time we finished our meal the kitchen was dark and not a soul to be seen or heard anywhere. "Hello?" "Wei?" I had a flashlight with me but a 3k walk in the quiet dark next to significant drop offs was not appealing.
We finally found everyone downstairs underneath the open patio we dined on. Phew!
Free ride!
written by
prrrrl
on March 9, 2012
from
Qiaotou
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
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To market, to market!
Shaxi
,
China
It's market day in
Shaxi
, a small village that once was on the Tea Horse Road where Yunnan tea was traded for Tibetan horses. The square is quaint and amazingly QUIET! I like it here! The market is in the newer part of town mostly under some metal shelters.
I saw the rug hat people and the black turban people and the woven bookmark with fringe draped across the head and held in place by a Mao cap people and the knit cap shaped like a squashed flower bud people and the animal skin on the back people and only one huge black half hexagon hanging off the back of the head person. Mostly it was the black turban people.
All these clothing distintions were only for the women. The men were drab in comparison.
I'll do my research and come up with proper tribal associations.
Twas a cool day!
written by
prrrrl
on March 9, 2012
from
Shaxi
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
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Forget about it!
Shaxi
,
China
Cheap ride [20rmb] from Tina's to Jane's where our bags were stored. Short walk to Qiaotou. Wait by side of the road for a few minutes. Corey's bus came almost immediately; he was off for Shangri La. My bus came right after but being full did not stop. I waited an additional 10 minutes. Next appropriate bus was mostly empty of humans but FULL of molds and grime. Super yuk! But I need to be headed south so I find a seat.
After a 20 minute rest stop so the driver could eat I'm in Jianchuan about 2 hours later. I switch to a bus to
Shaxi
that's waiting to fill. I'm person 6 of 7. We only need one more. But two people walk up, one holding a baby. A man quickly gets off giving up his seat so the family can stay together. Nice.
1 hour later I'm in my home for the next 3 nights:
Shaxi
, Yunnan, the town time forgot.
written by
prrrrl
on March 10, 2012
from
Shaxi
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Time
,
Yuk
,
Grime
,
Forgot
and
Selflessness
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Too hard!
Shaxi
,
China
Today I hiked with two Chileans & a Dutchman to some famous old grottoes in the hillsides near
Shaxi
. There are many and spread far apart in the hills. Seeing them all would take one very long day of non-stop hiking. We opt for a few along a curving path. A mini-van & driver will meet us at the end.
We make it to the first set [that include 'fertility' symbols on lotus pads]. To be cautious we inquire of the route to our next destination. The man says too difficult, go back to the parking lot and walk from there. Back to the parking lot would be a difficult down into the valley and up the other side that we already trekked. Over & over he said to go back, our route was too difficult & we'd get lost.
Thankfully, we ignored him. The route was easy to follow and almost totally down hill unlike the deep dip & back up he was recommending us to do. And it was beautiful! Even with no millenium old carvings to look at occassionally the hike was well worth it just for the trees, hills, blue skies, rock outcroppings and and views to distant villages.
Photos coming soon!
written by
prrrrl
on March 10, 2012
from
Shaxi
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Hike
,
Easy
,
Fertility
,
Ignore
and
Carvings
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Disney Dali
Dali
,
China
Trams zipping through the streets, guides on loud speakers. Where am I? I'm in Dali. The mountains are close by to the west causing an early sunset. The lake is visible if on the [new] old city wall. Contruction everywhere. Gorgeous cherry blossoms everywhere, too. Beautiful blue skies & pleasant tempuratures. Could be worse. When do the tours leave???
written by
prrrrl
on March 12, 2012
from
Dali
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Lake
,
Sunset
,
CityWall
and
Trams
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Tomorrow's itinerary
Dali
,
China
AM: Walked around Dali's Old City; found the local market which was very photogenic. Tried to retrace my steps to the walnut lady but could not find her after three attempts. Bought fruit.
AM: Walked atop the [new] Old City wall and enjoyed many picturesque views. Filled my SD card in my camera - sat for a long time deleting photos and videos. The 'highlight' was finding an almost 6 minute accidental video. It was from the vantage point of my belly of me washing my hands, breathing, flossing - quite a hoot! DELETE!
PM: Ate spicy mint for lunch. Not a favorite but worth a try.
PM: Went for an oil foot massage. I fell asleep at one point so was pretty good.
PM: Inquired at the front desk about walking to a pagoda I was prominantly from the [new] Old City wall. It looked close enough to reach on foot but I wanted to be sure there weren't fences or such in the way. She suggested I take a bus. She wrote the name of the stop. Having been informed by the same person that I could flag down the #4 bus anywhere along the road I stood off the side walk & waited. The first bus came and by the time I noticed the small #4 it was too late to flag it down. The second would not stop. Neither did the third. The fourth bus did stop. I showed the driver the stop I wanted and paid my 1.5rmb. I assumed it would be only 2 or 3 stops away. Miles away I ask my seat mate about the stop I want. We had passed it long ago. The bus driver than acknowledged that he had forgotten. I motioned to get off so that I could cross the street and hail a bus going back the way I wanted. He said to stay and he'd get me there on the return trip. That he did. But I had to go all the way to the bottom of the lake eating up a lot of time. But hey, I guess he saved me 24 cents. :-/ At the bus station I had to switch to another bus, my first driver explaining to the second driver why I didn't have to pay and where I was to get off. I could have walked there by now! Well, I finally was advised as to where to get off and... it was not the pagoda I had wanted to visit. It was no where near the city wall I was looking from. But there I was road side. I crossed the street. The temple was shut and locked. I walked around the side. Behind the complex holding two pagodas and across the alley was an open temple. I wandered through there taking pictures. It was quite nice but I'm getting templed out. I wanted to climb a pagoda! I went back to the road and caught another #4 bus back to my guest house. I told the desk sraff of the misunderstanding and my misadventure. The owner [who is native English speaking] tells me the pagoda I want to see is an easy walk, no fences or barriers of consequence. Tomorrow's challenge!
written by
prrrrl
on March 12, 2012
from
Dali
,
China
from the travel blog:
Yunnan, China
tagged
Pagoda
,
Mint
,
FootMassage
and
Misunderstanding
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