We started the morning with a spectacular drive through the Black Hills, which offered amazing views of Mt. Rushmore and the mountains. The smell of pine was overwhelming, and I loved every minute of it. But, it was a slow, winding road and much to my frustration, the girls showed little or no interest in any of it – Jordan was texting and Ellery was reading. There was dead silence in the car and the only time anyone spoke up it was to ask for something. My frustration started to build.

Jordan wanted to see one of the caves, so we headed out to Jewel Cave National Monument. And we decided to take the long way, the “wilderness loop” through Custer State Park. And, much to my surprise, we did see some bison, and some (not very) wild donkeys, and a few pronghorn sheep (or maybe they were antelope – they were in the distance).

But, it was a two lane road and we were stuck behind several cars who thought that driving 10 miles an hour was a good pace. It wasn’t for me. And Jordan refused to get out of the car when, for example, we stopped to pet the donkeys. For some reason, this really bothered me.

Still, we continued on to Jewel Cave where, much to my surprise, almost all of the decent tours were sold out several hours in advance. What we were left with was a short trip into just one cave, and even that required an hour and a half wait. Jordan wanted to wait for a longer tour, but I just didn’t have it in me.

After the cave, we hit the road again, back up through the Black Hills where the continuing beauty was completely lost on the girls.

Finally, we reached Wyoming, and our next destination – Devil’s Tower. What I thought would be a quick look and go turned into a really lovely mile walk around the base. Lovely, except Jordan surged ahead because she did not want to do the walk. Yes, we had each reached our breaking point at Devil’s Tower.

Things did not improve measurably after Devil’s Tower, except the scenery, which did take on that classic red rock look of Wyoming. But dinner at an Appleby’s was complete silence and when we did eventually settle in at a roadside motel, I told the girls that it we were going to put the day behind us and move on, and that tomorrow would be better. At least, I was hoping it would be, because we have two more weeks of this.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 18, 2011 from Gillette, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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The road from Gillette to Cody, while mostly boring highway, crossed through Bighorn National Forest. We spotted our first (and possibly last) moose, but for the most part the beauty was in the scenery, ranging from rugged mountains still covered in snow in mid-July to massive fields of wildflowers. The highest pass is nearly 10,000 ft., and you can really feel the altitude. And, most remarkably, there were cyclists – dozens of them – making their way through the mountains with us. Really, I can’t imagine anything more insane (yes, I’m talking to you Michael and Kevin).

We made it to Cody around 2 p.m., had lunch at a local diner, then found our way to our home for the next four nights, the Rand Creek Ranch. The scenery along the way was even better, if that was possible, as we crossed over the Buffalo Bill damn and into what is known as "the fifty most beautiful Miles in America."

The girls immediately found their way to the stables and went for an hour trail ride as I relaxed from a week of driving, and made onward plans (Jackson Hole – in; Santa Fe – out). Then it was back to Cody for dinner at Bubba’s Bar-B-Que (where none of us had bar-b-que) and a wind storm that came from nowhere and disappeared the same way. Then a bit of time was spent at the campfire before we settled in for the night.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 19, 2011 from Wapiti, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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So today, we finally made it to Yellowstone. What an incredible place. I’m not sure, overall, the beauty exceeds what we’ve seen so far on this trip, but the sheer number of sights and views and wildlife is incredible. It can take over an hour to go 10 miles, because every few miles there’s something to pull off the road to see, whether it is a herd of bison or a bubbling cauldron or a raging waterfall (or two or five or ten). After a while, there’s so much of it, there’s no more pictures you can take, you just have to take it all in.

The thirty mile drive to the park entrance is as majestic as the 22 miles from Cody, jagged rocky peak after peak. Then, once inside the park, it is a winding road along Yellowstone Lake to the first major intersection, at Fishing Bridge. There we stopped to buy sweatshirts as it was below 60 degrees (and to think we were in 110 degree heat just two days ago) and to buy provisions for lunch.

From there, we decided to head north to Mammoth Hot Springs, but there was so much to see along the way. First, it was two Elk just off to the side of the road; we probably should have stopped to take a closer look but instead we pressed onward, hoping it wouldn’t be our only sighting of the day. Just a bit further, we spotted our first bison up close, just two of them, waiting for us – and for the dozens of other cars pulled off to the side of the road.

And not much longer after that, an entire herd of bison, grazing along the Yellowstone River. OK, bison. Check. And this wasn’t the last herd, but as one of the kids staying at the ranch said last night at the campfire, “At this point, a bison would have to be doing a cartwheel for me to stop and take a picture of it.” They are ubiquitous. And getting stuck in the pile up of cars that slow and pull off to the side of the road at every sighting gets very old, very fast.

Our first side trip out of the car was to see the mud volcanos. Yep, mud. Yep, they bubble. Yep, they stink of sulphur. But they’re still fascinating to see from the raised wooden walkways that wind through them.

Just a little further along, near Otter Creek, we stopped for our picnic lunch. Very lovely setting, but we were clearly outgunned. We had some bread, peanut butter, and chips. Other families had prepared a bit better, with coolers and salads and feasts fit for kings (or a family of six living out of a camper for 2 weeks).

We continued along to Canyon Village, through Hayden Valley, where every guide book assured us was prime wildlife viewing. Um, no. Beautiful rolling hills and valleys of purple and pink and yellow wildflowers, but no wildlife to speak of.

After Canyon Village we pushed north toward Roosevelt, through Dunraven Pass (which still had a fair amount of snow on it) and past Mt. Washburn. We declined to hike up to the peak, at 10,250 ft., admitting to ourselves that we might just be the laziest visitors ever to make it to Yosemite. But, just before arriving at Roosevelt, we came to Tower Falls and did some hiking along the path down to (and up from) the lower falls. The upper falls could be seen crashing down in the distance; the lower falls were crashing down directly below us. The walk was well worth it.

From here we also had remarkable views of the Yellowstone River and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.

Well, our day was barely half over … but now, I’ve got to get some rest. July 20 will be continued ….

written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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After this Wilderness adventure, we finally made it to Mammoth Hot Springs. Interesting enough – several levels of pools of water, creating a Terrace effect.

We also stopped at the service area at Mammoth Springs for ice cream, a nice diversion. Mammoth Springs was definitely the nicest tourist area in the park that we had seen to date. And, it was only 2 Miles from the Montana border, so a quite side trip was definitely in order.

From there it was down to the Norris Geyser Basin, a large grouping of steaming hot pools which evidently erupt every so often – like every five years or so for the largest of them. Definitely an interesting sight, and a teaser for tomorrow’s trip to Old Faithful.

It had been a long day, and we were ready for home. Driving back was much quicker – no need to stop for those pesky buffalo or elk sightings. And, unlike literally dozens of photographers, we were not on dusk grizzly bear watch.

We arrived back just as the nightly campfire was taking shape. Wisely, earlier in the day we had purchased all the makings for s’mores, so that’s what the girls, along with their new friends before heading off to play somewhere in the dark before we all collapsed in bed around midnight.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Woah. Masses of people. I’m thinking there are people who come to Yellowstone, see this geyser, and then leave. Which is, honestly, what we did. We arrived just after it spouted so had lunch and waited the 75 minutes or so for the next eruption. As did lots and lots of other people. And while Old Faithful didn’t disappoint, I have to say it was a bit anti-climatic. But, it can now be checked off the “been there, done that” list.

Much more interesting and impressive were the pools a Midway Geyser Basin, a bit further up the road. Beautiful blue steaming turquoise ponds surrounded by red and orange clay. Really beautiful to see.

We then headed back, stopping briefly at Kepler Cascades, a very picturesque little Waterfall.

After about an hour break at the cabin, we headed back into Cody for dinner and the rodeo. We had a really fine meal (truly) at a restaurant near the stadium, and then headed in for the evening’s festivities.

Another disappointment. The “show” was corny and at time offensive (Brokeback Mountain jokes the prime offenders), and the riders themselves were not that good or graceful. It was like seeing a bad bullfight, but without the bill dying. We were more than happy to leave after the bull-riding, back to our cabin for the night.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 21, 2011 from Cody, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Then, it was back into Cody for lunch and a stop to pick up supplies at the local Wal-Mart.

The day ended with Ellery and I watching Close Encounters of the Third Kind (love that Amazon instant streaming) in light of our recent stop at Devil’s Tower.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 22, 2011 from Wapiti, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Oh, but what a drive. I seriously did not expect the Tetons to be as beautiful as they were. Pictures do the best talking here (especially since the girls are now, evidently, "bored" with mountains).

Having made it to Moose in record time, we waited for the Thompsons at the Visitors Center before heading off for our float trip, which offered even more fabulous views of the mountains as well as a bald eagle or two.

On our way back to Teton Village, we finally got a good look at a moose – a young male, not very large, but still impressive.

Then it was time to check into our hotel, the Snake River Lodge, a very nice place. Ellery and Jake then headed off for a horseback ride, Jordan to the room to do whatever it is she does on the computer, and me to the spa for a quick 20 minute massage. Heaven.

The kids then spent some time swimming and the day eventually ended with a very nice dinner together at the Mangy Moose, after which Ellery went back to Jake’s hotel for a last late night swim.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 23, 2011 from Teton Village, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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As planned, since Jordan has never seen snow, our morning was set to begin with a 9 a.m. ride up with Jake up the Gondola to the top of Jackson Hole, were there was breakfast of waffles and nutella (Jordan’s proclaimed favorite food), to be followed by frolicking in the snow. Ellery and Jake and I enjoyed all these things amongst some amazing views (which included watching snowboarders make tracks in late July!)

Jordan did not, however, enjoy any of these things. As Ellery and I had come to learn, Jordan is not a morning person, but her mood this morning was as bad as it had ever been. She did not enjoy the ride up the gondola, she did not like the waffle (and yelled at Ellery when Ellery asked how it was), and refused to partake in any reindeer games. It was now clear that, under any circumstances, Jordan was not having fun – whether it was because she is 16, because she was homesick, because she didn’t enjoy our company, or whatever it was, it wasn’t going away. And things did not get any better when I told her that I would tolerate many things, but being rude and mean to Ellery and Jake was not one of them.

This resulted in a crying fit of significant proportions, a lengthy conversation with someone about how I was treating her like a 12 year old (earth to Jordan – even adults like snowball fights in July) purposely made within my earshot, and, unfortunately, a 9 hour drive through beautiful Shoshone National Forest, with amazing wide open green pastures, and the Wind River Canyon, with striking red rocks, in complete, steaming, angry silence. And then another 7 hours of the most boring drive I have ever made (really, worse than Kansas or Texas). As much as I kept telling myself that this was merely moody teenager behavior, or that it would pass, I was pretty overwhelmed by her anger, even when she decided not to participate in the ritual cross-the-state-border photo (a ritual that she, herself, initiated).

Fortunately, relief was waiting in Denver, in two magnificent forms – the Lynch/Hyman family from Texas and David Picker and his girlfriend Anne. So, after checking into a beautifully large room at the Westin, Ellery and I (without Jordan, who chose to stay in the hotel and have room service – a choice I did not dissuade her from) met up with Leslie, Phil, Rachel and Gabe for a very nice and enjoyable dinner at a restaurant on the 16th Street mall. Then, while the kids went up to Phil and Leslie’s hotel room, we met up with David and Anne for drinks, where I promptly cried my eyes out over the stress of the day, which they allowed me to do, along with offering me various theories of what was going on, all aimed at making me feel better. And when I said, “Really, I’d love to just put her on a plane home, but I don’t want it to end this way,” Phil said, quite wisely, “Why don’t you just offer her the opportunity to go home?” I thought about it, and realized that despite the fact that I had wanted to see this trip through, really, that was the simplest solution. If she said yes, it would make us all happier; if she said no, it meant that she was committed to the trip and, hopefully, would be happier about it.

So, we came back to the room and I asked her. “Do you want to send me home?” she asked. “No, I don’t, but I’m giving you the opportunity to go home.” “Well, if you don’t want to send me home, then don’t.” OK, I thought, she wants to stay. It isn’t as bad for her as it seems. But just a few minutes later, she piped up, “There’s a 10:30 flight but I can’t change my ticket.” So, that was the answer – and it was OK. She was homesick, she wasn’t enjoying herself, she definitely wanted to go home. I bought the plane ticket.

Throughout the night, I thought maybe she would change her mind in the a.m., but that would be OK too.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 24, 2011 from Denver, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Yesterday and today were days when I really needed friends; I was amazingly lucky, really, to have them waiting for me in Denver.

While I was sad to see Jordan go, things really did lighten up; it was really the best thing for all of us. I returned to Denver proper and joined Leslie and Ellery for breakfast. Soon, we picked up Gabe and explored the 16th Street Mall in a bit more depth, and made our way to the capital for the obligatory sighting of the mile-high marker (although I’m told there are three of them and no one is really sure which step is a mile high). Eventually, Phil and Rachel also joined us, and we spend several nice hours just hanging by the swimming pool. At which point Ellery suggested that the women all get pedicures so, off we went and had our toes painted.

After saying good-bye to Phil, Leslie, Rachel and Gabe, we returned to our room briefly, but were soon picked up by David and Anne, and we all headed to a very cute little neighborhood overlooking the city for a nice Mexican dinner at Lola, a stroll around the neighborhood, and a drive through various parts of Denver (which included our sighting of a Calatrava bridge under construction – we’ve now seen four Calatravas on three different continents). Denver really is a lovely city; lots of diverse neighborhoods, a solid city Center, and enviable natural beauty.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 25, 2011 from Denver, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Oh, and we did stay at the same crappy Holiday Inn as the Kansas City Chiefs, back in training after the lock-out ended. Those are some big, big guys.

written by  shoshtrvls on July 26, 2011 from Kansas City, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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