The opera was something else. There were three acts (three separate stories) with an intermission after the second. The first had three male characters who, I think, were fighting over a woman. The second was three women, one requiring forgiveness from another, with the third acting as an intermediary. The third act was the best with incredible costumes and acrobatics (and of course I ran out of film). This one seemed to be about two warring armies and about twenty to thirty actors were involved.

Peking opera is really different. The music is loud banging on traditional instruments (discovery of my earplugs from the bar exam was really welcomed) with only a few semi-melodic passages played on stringed instruments. What little actual singing there is is a high-pitched whine. Mostly though the actors talk or simply mime. Much of it is really acrobatics and sword fights. The costumes and makeup are stunning and a lot of posing goes on. It was definitely an event I'm glad I saw.

After the show I attempted to walk home but when I arrived at the Overseas Chinese Hotel rather than the Beijing Overseas Chinese Hotel, I realized that the hotel was just too far and so I grabbed a cab home.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 12, 1987 from Beijing, China
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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My next destination was the Temple of Heaven on the other side of the city -- a one bus trip according to the map. So I waited for the 116 to arrive, which it did. Along with several other people I jammed myself into the crowded bus and handed the woman ten fen -- apparently enough. The bus ride seemed to take forever, due in part to a large traffic jam around Chang An. Eventually, I showed the woman where I wanted to go on the map, and she told me where to get off.

The Temple of Heaven is situated in a large park. Inside, people slept on benches, practiced various forms of martial arts (one with a stick, another "boxing") and attended various sideshows - everything from motorcycle stunts to mini-zoos to acrobatics shows. The Temple itself was, well, another temple, by now a rather uninteresting sight. It was a long walk and I was hoping to find a cab at the exit but no such luck, so I began walking and walking and ... finally, I decided to try the bus system again - a little trickier as it required two buses to get back to the Beijing Hotel but I was helped by two very nice women, one of whom spoke very good English. I had lunch at the hotel and while I'm sure I had plenty of time to grab a cab out to the summer palace (very beautiful in the pictures) or walk to Bahai Park, I decided to rest my weary eet and hang out at the hotel all afternoon, a decision I now somewhat regret, especially since I didn't meet anyone interesting to talk to.

Several hours later I caught a cab to the airport (stopping at my hotel to pick up my luggage) and was soon on my way back to Shanghai.

Beijing was very different from Shanghai. While it didn't look as European, there were many more westerners in the city. The lifestyle seemed quite different, somewhat poorer in the outlying areas, definitely more agrarian in the area around the city and in the heart, somehow cheaper, not as real, a little flashy. There was also little or no hanging laundry, quite different from Shanghai.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 13, 1987 from Beijing, China
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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A few thoughts on China in general. Throughout China I saw only one beggar, although there were several dirty children near the Great Wall and a couple of three card monte, chinese-style, artists. However, you couldn't walk around for five minutes without being accosted by black marketers wanting to change money. People spit everywhere, quite loudly, and say by squatting, often with legs spread wide.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 13, 1987 from Shanghai, China
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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The waiting room was up several flights of stairs and very warm. I ran into Claus there (who I had met when I first bought the tickets) and met some other fellow travelers -- Americans who taught English in northern China. Finally it was through customs and another long walk to the boat.

Not quite the "love boat," but a real cruise ship (Hoboken, 1957). The cabin was better than expected, really quite nice, private bath. There was even a swimming pool (dubbed the goldfish bowl by a fellow passenger).

While there were quite a few Hong Kong Chinese aboard, most were westerners on their way either home or to Thailand. Across the hall from me resided Andy, an engineer from New York on his way home after traveling through Thailand and China. I also met a Young couple from California teaching English in Beijing -- he was in the midst of applying to law schools, including Hastings, so we talked for a while. Then came a survey of the ship and dinner, where I met another couple -- she was Belgian, he was getting his doctorate in Belgium but was from New York. The two of them, Claus and I spent most of the time together for the rest of the trip -- eating meals, playing cards, sharing books.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 14, 1987 from Shanghai, China
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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After trading CITS horror stories (of which I had non but then again I wasn't on the budget plan), there's not much else to do but read, sleep, play cards and eat (and write in this journal). Quite relaxing -- its really great meeting all these fellow travelers and sharing stories and tips. Now, if they could shorten the trip to 1 day ...

Another problem is, of course, hearing about everything you missed or didn't have time for, like the Moscow-Beijing train ride or the boat from Chung King to Wuhan, which was supposed to be beautiful (as opposed to our wasted day going from Shanghai to Nanjing), or things you won't have time for -- southern Thailand, Kathmandu to Lhasa, etc. Spending lots of time in just one country is obviously the solution, but there's just so much to see in the world. Unlike most people on this boat, I won't be traveling for six months or a year -- I have to pick the major spots. By the same token, until you get someplace you don't really know what those are, ie which part of the Yangtze is worth seeing. But, while I have some regrets (my obsessive personality -- I want to see everything), I'm glad I saw what I did -- a taste is better than nothing at all (better to have loved and lost theory of life).

Breakdancing -- the last evening on the boat, they planned a "disco." I missed most of it (there was a guy singing and a fan dance apparently) but I did catch a few minutes of the soon-to-be law student breakdancing! That really gave everyone a thrill.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 16, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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We got off the ferry somewhat north o Ocean Terminal; I and two others took the wrong bus but finally got it together and got to our respective abodes -- I finally checked into the Y (no tub!) around 11:30. Then, walking around I ran into Claus; we window shopped all afternoon and then met up again for dinner -- Mexican in Hong Kong (and not too bad). Then we met Jimmy and his girlfriend (the New Yorker and Belgian) and headed to Ned Kelly's, an Aussie bar with a great jazz band. First it was just the four from the boat, then another couple, then a foursome, etc. -- it was great. I kept thinking that these were really terrific times: interesting people in interesting places, the best of times so to speak.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 17, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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From there I went to Lei Chen Uk Tomb, a tomb dating back to the Han Dynasty. Finding it was rather difficult. I walked around for a while -- even people who lived in the area didn't seem to know where it was, and then I discovered why -- talk about a hole in the wall! It was a tiny building which housed info about the Han Dynasty -- agriculture, etc. (pretty advanced) and some artifacts. The tomb itself was the size of my steamer trunk and all you could do was look inside at the bricks through glass! Somewhat of a waste, but walking around the neighborhood (outdoor markets, etc.) was new.

Anyway, from there I went to Hong Kong Island.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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Then it was back to Central, where I walked through the gleaming office building arcades. I bought a pair of shorts (28" waist!!) and then back to the hotel. I took public transportation all day -- subway, buses, ferries. I walked a lot (because I often couldn't find my stop or I missed it, i.e. Tiger Balm Gardens). It was a good way to see Hong Kong.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 1987 from Hong Kong, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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I had dinner at a place called Lindy's -- very classy (and I was wearing shorts!) but a great pepper steak and good wine -- Hirshfield prints on the walls a la Sardi's, and I began wishing I was Nina Hirshfield with my name all over the world.

fter, I, Claus, and 2 Swedish girls he knew and ran into, Jimmy and his girlfriend went to Rick's Cafe for drinks -- pretty dead (were were told there was live music every night -- not true). We left rather early and said our (forever) farewells.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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