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Kiwis and Kangaroos

a travel blog by exumenius


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Trip to Hervey Bay - Night 31

Maryborough, Australia

I awoke around 4 am with a sewing needle stabbing me in the ass. Apparently someone had left one on/in the mattress I had stolen and set outside to sleep on. Son of bitch that hurt. I managed to squeeze out another hour of marginally sound sleep before waking for good. Showered, packed my bags and said good bye to the CVA volunteer house. I caught the 7:45 Greyhound from the Roma Street Station bound for Hervey Bay. Hands down the most comfortable bus I have ever been on, that and I had an open seat next to me. In front and to the right of me sat a Methuselah of a man who would fall asleep every ten minutes and then awaken suddenly and make some sort of jibberish, grunting noise and promptly pass back out. Just amazing. Seriously, who are these people? These strange, aged characters who seem to flock to public transport, libraries, and flea markets. Is this what will happen to me in fifty years if I don’t adequately pad my 401k upon returning from this odyssey?

We arrived in Hervey Bay around the one


Next Backpacker, Hervey Bay
o’clock hour, whereupon I hitched a ride with the Next Backpackers Bus back to the hostel. After signing some paper work we were treated to a rousing overview of our Fraser Island trip by Troy, a guide for the tour company. Our group consists of eight women and three men.

The Roster:
Rob, England – 30
Laura, England – 29
Rebecca, England – 22
Amy, England – 22
Elaine, Ireland – 25
Marie, Ireland – 25
Hannah, Germany – 19
Jana, Germany – 19
Aaron, Canada – 22
Morgan, Canada – 22


Hervey Bay
Everyone threw in $20 for food and after some deliberating decided on a menu for the next few days. Rob and I agreed to do the shopping. Buying food for eleven people sounds much easier than it really is. Not only did we forget the sausages but we blew the budget by $60. We are all on our own for buying alcohol and sunscreen, the only two true necessaries on Fraser.

What I Learned Today: Americans just don’t seem to travel well. Of the 40 or so travelers I have met so far on this trip, only one of them has been an American, whereas the British seem to be everywhere.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 10, 2007 from Maryborough, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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First Day on Fraser

Fraser Island, Australia

After our short introductory meeting we left the Next Backpackers hostel around 9pm for the drive to the ferry terminal. We were early enough to be the first ones on, which meant we would be the first ones off once the boat was docked on the Island. The sea was rough and 45 minute crossing was a bit cold. After landing, we headed straight to Lake MacKenzie for lunch.

The lake is only about 10 acres in size,


Lake MacKenzie
but has the finest, white beach sand I have ever seen. It is much like walking on flour. The water is so clear and blue we were told that you can drink it (I tried it and it tastes better than any water you’ll ever buy in a store.) In order to keep the water clean they suggest not swimming after using sun block or lotion. The Lake MacKenzie beach is consistently rated one of the top in the world and I would have to agree that it is pretty damn amazing.


Lake MacKenzie
Post lunch, we took the rough, winding road through the rain forest down to the little town of Eurong. As you descend the hill, the forest changes dramatically based on the amount of rain it receives. Fraser Island is composed solely of sand (with a few volcanic rock outcroppings) so I is quite amazing that 120 foot tall trees can grow here. At Eurong you leave the winding forest road and head out to drive along the beach. Nearly perfectly straight for 50 miles or so, at low tide the beach makes for a great highway. Speed limits are posted at 70 kmh, but a fully loaded troupee can do about 90 safely on the hard pack sand.

An hour into the beach drive we came upon


Maheno Shipwreck
the Maheno ship wreck. Back in the 1920s the Maheno was a cruise ship making the run from Sydney to New Zealand. Eventually considered obsolete, a Japanese company purchased it for scrap metal and was towing it back to Japan when it came loose in a violent storm in 1935 and washed up on Fraser Island. Built in the same Irish shipyard as the Titanic, it was once a large ship nearly ten stories high. But the seventy years of wind, surf and its occasional use as target practice for the Australian Air Force have not been kind to the Maheno. Not much remains of this once proud ship.

We arrived at our campsite, which was just 2 kilometers north of the ship wreck, around 4pm. Blessed with decent weather we decided to go for a small side trip up to Knifeblade Sandblow. The camp hosts, four native Aborigines, pointed us in the right direction. On the way to the lookout we hit a large bump and suddenly my entire left side (I was riding shotgun) was covered in red. A bottle of wine – my bottle of wine – stored on the top rack had burst and spilled down the side of the troupee. I was a bit bummed at first, but everyone offered to share their booze (and the stains washed out) so I might have actually come out ahead on the deal. The Sandblow was amazing, but we were too far away to actually get onto the dunes.


Steak and Potatoes on Fraser
Dinner for the night was steak, potatoes and salad. The Dan Krause special potatoes went over very well. Quite surprisingly the food was very good, almost too good for camp food. Accommodations were a large rotunda that held 22 cots and one large huntsman spider on the roof. Some of the people though it a bit too wild, but for a true backpacker it was rather luxurious.

We all sat around with the other groups at the


Tribal Dances
campground and swilled wine and beer and stared into the fire. Around 9 the aboriginal hosts came out to do some traditional dances for us. Much ground stomping, yelling and playing of the digeridoo, the dances are intense and exciting. We were seated on the ground so each of the foot stomps reverberated through the crowd. The men were dressed in traditional clothes complete with body paint. One of the men had three stripes on his chest which he explained stood for the three principles of his tribe: 1)If you have more than enough you must share with your fellow tribesman, 2)Respect Mother Earth for she provides you with everything, 3)Respect your elders for they teach you everything you need to know to live. I don’t think we’ve improved upon these principles over the last 60,000 years; in fact we (western civilization) seem to have forgotten all three.

What I Learned Today: The thirds and the quadrant rules of photography. That and a few other pointers from Rob (a professional photographer – www.robheathcote.co.uk), which I hope will vastly improve my photographs for the rest of my trip.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 11, 2007 from Fraser Island, Australia
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Sand and Sea - Night 33

Fraser Island, Australia


The Beach on Fraser Island
As usual, I was the first to awake despite my bout of wine drinking the night before. My customary morning walk took me down to the sea and then north to the Pinnacles, strange sand blown formations much like the Badlands of South Dakota. Upon my return the group was up and at em’, so we left for the Eli Creek floating adventure before 8. Getting to Eli Creek we soon discovered that the boardwalk was closed and only 100 meters or so of the creek could actually be floated. Our guide from Next, Troy, had failed to mention this, leading us to question the remainder of his recommendations for the day.

The tide was coming in so we had to book it back to the campground. Unable to leave for a few hours, Rob convinced the four aborigines to take us on a bush walk up to Knifeblade Sandblow. They happily agreed, saying they had not been on a walk like that for years. Only four of us, Rob, Laura, Rebecca and I,


Rob and I on the Dunes
volunteered for what they assured us would be a tough hike. When we went to meet them at their house they were smoking and drinking whiskey straight out of the bottle…at 11 am. They quickly got ready and off we went; us in sandals, them barefoot. We walked up the road a bit and then just cut straight into the bush, no trail, no nothing. This was a true bush walk, aboriginal style. We climbed up over three large ridges and when I say climbed it was nearly hands and knees-type ascending. We arrived on top of the third ridge to find that we missed the mark by about a kilometer. We then walked the ridge over to the

Leaving the Aborigines in the Dust
beginning of the sandblow. Along the way they explained what plants were used for medicine or food and other interesting tidbits about the land. We even tried a few berries and a hallucinogenic grape.

Arriving at the beginning of Sandblow it was stunning, almost unworldly. The coffee rock and dead trees were reminiscent of nothing I had ever seen. Getting a bit lost had cost us some time and we needed to get back to the rest of the group, so we climbed right up and over the knifeblade ridge; absolutely killer. A bit like climbing to base camp on Mt. Rainier, but just slightly steeper and much, much warmer. The view from the top was amazing, you could see out over the pinnacles and the shipwreck.

We got back and ate lunch. Afterwards


At Indian Head
we made the long drive up to Indian Head, a large coastal head jutting out into the sea. Again, the views and climb were phenomenal. On a place like Fraser you run out of adjectives rather quickly. Everything has just been amazing. After Indian Head we drove over to the Champagne pools for some swimming. The pools are a small part of the ocean cut off from the rest of the sea, thus safe from sharks and box-jellyfish. The name comes from the bubbles that arise as the surf crashes over the rocks into the pools. We headed home after the

Champagne Pools
pools. Not quite content with the day, Rob and I grabbed a beer and drove down to Eli Creek for a freshwater bath and float.

View from Indian Head


Sandblow

The Knifeblade Sandblow

On tonight’s menu was chicken and pasta…another stellar bush camp meal. Again we got good and pissed on wine. Around 10, Rob and I along with three Canadian guys in camp took a midnight stroll down to the beach. Light pollution on Fraser is very minimal and the night sky was stunning. Though it could have helped that we were fairly drunk by this time. I don’t remember what time we went to bed...I guess it really doesn’t matter, like the aborigines, for us on this trip (ferry landing aside) time was irrelevant.

What I Learned Today: Although the four aborigines at the camp drank, smoked and generally wore western clothes, our bush hike showed that they still have a serious appreciation for Mother Earth. Every time they stepped on a plant or broke off a limb they apologized to their nature spirit for the offense.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 12, 2007 from Fraser Island, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Back to Land - Night 34

Fraser Island, Australia

We all awoke a bit groggy after last night’s partying.

Our Rotunda
Rob and I had made loose plans to catch the Sunrise at the Maheno wreck; Rob was late, I didn’t show. Everyone quickly finished off the remaining breakfast food and packed up the troupee. Lake Wabby, a small lake slowly being engulfed by an approaching sand dune, was our first stop on the long drive back down the beach to Eurong. In order to get to the lake

Lake Wabby
one must trek two kilometers over perfectly shaped sand dunes. Quite simply, an amazing walk. Once you get to the lake the sand drops down into the water at 30 to 40 degree angle. It is a great place to run down the dune and dive into the incredibly deep water. Just another world-class attraction on Fraser Island.

After Lake Wabby we had to start heading back


The Wabby Dunes
in order to catch the ferry home at 2pm. A stop off for lunch and swim at Lake Mackenzie, this time with a bit more sun and less wind. Lunch today was our last group meal and nearly all the food was gone and no one went hungry. All things considered, we ate like kings this week while aboard the island.

Girls Sunbathing at Lake Wabby

We made the ferry in plenty of time and were back at the hostel by 3:30. The girls rushed to showers in desperate need of hair washing. The sand on Fraser is so fine that it gets into everything, sleeping bags, shoes, hair, cameras, sunscreen…everything. I didn’t mind the camping so much, but I am used to going a few days without a proper shower. It seems as if most of our group (Rob and Laura and the Canadians aside) had never experienced that before.

I spent the evening having a few beers with Rob and Laura, looking through photos, catching up on my journal and packing for Noosa.

What I Learned Today: The less you worry about things the better they will come out in the end. The trick is to let go and concern yourself not with those things outside of your control.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 13, 2007 from Fraser Island, Australia
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To Noosa - Night 35

Noosa Heads, Australia

I awoke at 4 am and snuck out of my hostel without waking any of my roommates, all who had been on the Fraser trip. My bus to Noosa left at 6:50 and was a nice calm ride until Gympie when an old fat guy got on and sat next to me, which is bad enough, but then he proceeded to ask a never ending series of stupid and/or rhetorical questions. Such as every time we went through a roundabout – “Which direction are we going?” How the fuck should I know, he clearly lived here and I clearly did not. Then somehow he got it into his mind that I was going fishing in Noosa so he pestered me at no end about what sort of fishing I was going to do, often asking the same question three or four times. Let’s just say I was overjoyed to get off the bus at the Noosa Heads station.


Me, Daniel and Charlie
Paolo and company where due in around 11. I waited at the bus stop until 12:30 and then gave up and headed to the apartment we had rented for the next five days. They showed up shortly thereafter. After checking out our digs, which are great, we marched down to the beach for a little bit of leisure. Daniel and Anna showed up around 4pm and we all went back to the apartment and began swilling wine. The last member of our group, Charlie, got in from the airport around 8pm.

Boxed wine was the drink of choice due


Drinks at Koala's
to economic concerns. Around 9 we grabbed a cab bound for Koala’s, a backpacker bar in Noosa Junction. A bit cheesy and dirty, the drinks were cheap and the clientele poor travelers like myself; a classy joint, no doubt. By the time the lights came on at midnight, not a soul in our group was threatened by sobriety.

Back at the apartment, Charlie, Daniel, Anna, Sheri, and I skirted the rules and pool wall and hopped in the hot tub for a midnight swim. By some miracle no one complained about the loud noise.

What I Learned Today – Whinge. v. A British term meaning to whine incessantly about nothing at all. Or what a woman does after she has run out of other things to say.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 14, 2007 from Noosa Heads, Australia
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To The Beach Again - Night 36

Noosa Heads, Australia


The Beach
Anna made a wonderful Irish omelet this morning. Then we went back to sleep until 11 or so. We spent the remainder of the day at the beach trying fairly unsuccessfully to body surf. Sabine, the Danish girl from Brisbane, met us out on the beach as well.

Dinner was Mexican at Montezuma’s on Hastings Street. Though everyone was rightfully knackered after a day of doing nothing we still managed to hit up Irish Murphy’s and Koala’s and made it til bar close. I dropped a glass on the floor at Irish Murphy’s wasting a perfectly good beer and causing a bit of a scene. On the walk home a maroon Eclipse drove by and asked us “how much for your women?” Twice. Added to the time he did this on our way to the bar made thrice. How bored do you have to be to drive around Noosa for three hours yelling this at everyone you pass?

PS. The agreed upon price was four pints, one for each of them.

What I Learned Today: American parents coddle and protect their children to a harrowing degree, much to detriment of both. Nineteen year olds from most countries are allowed, even encouraged, to travel the world freely, to strike off and grab life by the throat, to grow up, whereas, American teens are sent to college like sheep and told to call home every other night to make sure they are ok. Thus our sense of adventure (and maturity level) is stunted before it gets a chance to blossom. Your average teenage Dane or Aussie is more worldly and interesting than your average thirty year old American. (Average being the key word -- for it is undoubtedly true that we live in a Gaussian world)


permalink written by  exumenius on November 15, 2007 from Noosa Heads, Australia
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Beach, Take Three - Night 37

Noosa Heads, Australia

We awoke slowly and again spent the day at

Catching some Rays
the beach. Daniel and Anna left us this afternoon, reducing our party to six. Sabine joined us in the afternoon for a swim at the apartment. Charlie and Sheri made a great Italian meal for dinner. The boys fell asleep at 10, the girls went out for a glass of wine and were home by 12.

What I Learned Today: Do not let Paolo apply sunscreen (as evidenced by Charlie’s back)


permalink written by  exumenius on November 16, 2007 from Noosa Heads, Australia
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Noosa National Park - Night 38

Noosa Heads, Australia


Hell's Gate, Noosa NP
After staying in last night we awoke refreshed and ready to do some hiking in Noosa National Park. Located on a large head that sticks into the sea, the park promised great views and, from what we had heard on the street, a chance at seeing koalas in the wild. Only the boys were up for this adventure (with the exception of Sabine who met us at the park); the girls took to the street for a shopping spree.

The park delivered the promised views;


Noosa National Park
however, the koalas proved elusive. It was a satisfying 5 to 6 mile hike through the jungle, not too difficult, but not exactly wheelchair accessible either. With the questionable weather looming, it was a good change of pace from lying on the beach and frolicking in the surf.

The evening consisted of leftovers, some wine and a card game. Around 10 we hit up the main bars in town (Irish Murphy’s, Koala’s, and the Reef), which at this point have all worn a bit thin on us and we were home by 1:30.

What I Learned Today: My diminishing rate of return from partying is beginning to reach a critical level. Translation: I think I am finally growing up – a process which is not, as some think, the end of fun, but rather a transition to elevated enjoyment in whatever form an individual chooses to pursue.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 17, 2007 from Noosa Heads, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Rainy Day at the Beach - Night 39

Noosa Heads, Australia

Rolling out of bed I was greeted by the sound of rain pouring down on the terrace. I took my sequestered time to update my journal and go through my photos from the previous days. The rain broke slightly at 8:30 and I went into town to try to steal some wireless. Utterly unsuccessfully, I returned around 10 to find the rest of the house awake and preparing breakfast.

Around 1 pm the clouds finally broke and


Volleyball on the Beach
Paolo and I made a trip to the beach one last time. The morning rains had scared away most of the crowds but had also brought in quite a surf. The waves were much larger and closer to shore than they had been the previous days. Paolo had rented a body board (though never actually paid for it) from the apartment complex so we tooled around with that awhile until it became painfully obviously that we were clueless, even the little kids were kicking our ass at catching waves.


The Last Supper
A proper Australian barbecue was on the menu for the evening but the rain returned so we were forced to grill the sausages inside. Nobody was much for partying tonight so a few games of cards and then the sheets for all of us.

What I Learned Today: Australians make the most awful potato salad.


permalink written by  exumenius on November 18, 2007 from Noosa Heads, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Arrival in Sydney - Night 40

Sydney, Australia


The Apartment
We were all packed up, checked out and in the cab on the way to the airport by 10 am. Our five days in Noosa were enjoyable and relaxing (and fairly cheap), though I wouldn’t want to spend any more than that there.

View from the Apartment
It is slow-paced, family oriented place that doesn’t offer much in the way of adventure or excitement. A good place to catch a tan or catch up on sleep.

In comparison to the Sunshine Coast Airport, Austin Straubel (Green Bay) Airport is massive. The place has two boarding gates and one small restaurant. Our flight was a bit late but once underway was a smooth hour and a half ride into Sydney. After collecting our luggage and taking the train into town we arrived at the girl’s hotel at around 4pm. Sheri is using her accumulated travel points to stay at the Marriot on Hyde Park; Paolo and I will be crashing on Charlie’s floor at his house in North Sydney.

The girls unpacked and we all took a stroll through the idyllic Hyde Park located next door. Charlie and Bea, his girlfriend, showed up at 8 and we took off for dinner in Kirrabilli, a neighborhood on the north side of Sydney. Reputedly the home of the prime minister John Howard, Kirrabilli is a trendy enclave perched on a hill that offers amazing views of the Harbor and the city. We dined at a small Italian restaurant that was fabulous. Many such places in Australia are BYO, which means bring your own alcohol…so we did.


THE Italian Place to eat in Kirrabilli

My first impression of Sydney is that it is a massive city, much more frantic than anywhere else in Australia, but yet a place that still maintains an underlying feeling of the Aussie free spirited culture. Not to mention a genuine natural beauty that is ever-present.

What I Learned Today: I am sure I learned something today but as I write this I can’t help but think: Why don’t you ever see any baby pigeons? For some strange reasons they are always all the exact same size. Are they born that big?


permalink written by  exumenius on November 19, 2007 from Sydney, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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