We have been rushing around Hanoi getting a few things sorted and seeing some sights too for 2 days! And now after a few beers with the Aussie guys who i managed to coincidently book into the same guesthouse as, a decision has been made about Northern Vietnam. Thai and Me are going to take his scooter to North Western Vietnam for 5 days and 5 nights. I am looking forward to this extremely because this area is known to be the most beautiful and it is also home to most of the 54 Vietnamese hill tribes.

Thai will be my independent guide translator and driver for this time, taking me to the houses of these people and helping me explore (by probably the best transport means possible) the amazing scenery on offer.

Ok i have to leave now and get the wheels in motion...

bye all.

written by  50watts on March 5, 2006 from Hanoi, Vietnam
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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...i also never thought i would see this entry wrote twice and then again! computers!

...i didn't expect to see a mouse do the trapeze in Hue with the phone lines from hotel balcony to hotel balcony!

...and i didn't expect to see a motorbike just up off the street and drive at speed through the nice bar we were sat at in Hoi An.

...i didnt beleive i would see my backpack after it got sent to Laos (a different country!) instead of on my scheduled trip!

...there was also a day of rain! the first day since Japan!

...and finally i thought i would see at least one night out in Nha Trang but too much Beer Hoi put an end to that hope!
balewell!!!!

ok i was going to finish this entry while in Hanoi but things have taken a crazy twist i will do this entry in 5 days or so. because see above entry....

written by  50watts on March 2, 2006 from Hanoi, Vietnam
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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...three australian guys, two germans and an assortment of others coming and going! The street thriving with life and the plastic stools we had placed half way in the moto frenzied road. We were raised our glasses and at 20p for a jug of beer, we raised them many, many times! This place was an evening home for us only leaving when in need of food or going to Allez Boo around the corner for later nights. This is so far my favourite bar of the trip! The old lady and i think her daughter serve an endless flow of jugs to the table and every night they make space (somehwere) for us.

So as you can imagine a few stories were had in Saigon, but first let me introduce you to a few new faces.Ok far right is Jules, we met crossing the border and fending off a number of scams that were tried on us. The other two guys are Mark (far left) and Warick (middle somewhere), Jules's mates that were put on another bus. The others? Well these are the street children, little rascals, and adorable characters that plagued us on our first night in Viet Nam. As you can see they sell everything and are definately not photo shy!

Inside Allez Boo we lost Warwick, we found him on the street learning his numbers with a small crowd. The crowd grew as we joined him and we were promptly offered everything and at every price! As i took a few photos and the others pulled Woz away a little voice ensured a longer stay than we expected! I can only say that her name was pronounced 'ciao' and that she was remarkable. In fact she was the first child to recieve any money from me on my trip! I think to travel so much in Asia, everyone will find one character they are drawn to so much they give in! Ciao told me;

"be careful. lady take pictures. then you have no pictures. be careful. nice pictures lady take all pictures. be careful."

The certainty in her voice was as if predicting that at least one of us will become a victim of the prostitute pick pockets during our stay. And this on your first night! As you will all probably know i love taking photos, Ciao physically showed us how the two mopeds with two prostitutes on each would most definately approach us and our pockets. With this she protected me and the things i value, She was given some loose change and a big thank you by all four of us!

The thing i couldn't understand from the confusion was this; some of the kids are pickpockets themselves so why help us? Now Ciao was younger than most of the others so maybe this factor made her less hardened and more understanding towards us, she also had nothing to sell. But for sure the other kids and the presence of an older very drugged Vietnamese girl indicated that not all book sale money goes to these children! All the same i instructed Ciao that the money was for her ONLY! The best you can do people!

Bad news: without us, one of the German guys was hassled as per usual by these prostitutes, he woke up with no wallet! Lesson taught!

Well Saigon itself is as manic as many of the other Asian cities, except there is much more room to breathe and less tall buildings. Some of the streets are so full of character too its quite a fantastic place. Overall a really good impression then, pleasant and the people mostly friendly outside of a business environment. You see when doing business they seem to add a 'foreigner tax' to everything being sold! It can be quite annoying having to constantly alert the people that the price of the can of coke/ internet/ chips is not as they say! Getting to know the average prices of things is a very good idea here!

I have been eating some great food too. Mostly all cooked in the streets there is some fantastic dishes to be had. The way they cook the pork and grill the chicken is so tasteful and makes excellent late night stop overs on the way home after Bar Hoi. The lady below was just sat there at 4am cooking more meat than there were people on the streets! Thats a point i forgot, the kids earlier are also found out on the streets until the sun rises, you don't get that in the UK!

Of course being in Viet Nam there is common visibility of the past and the war with America. I visited the War Musuem and it similar to the experience at S21 in Cambodia, it was very moving. The pictures and artefacts on display are horrific and amongst the most disturbing visible. I try to understand more by appreciating that this is a Vietnamese museum and that perspective does not therefore explain the reasons for the war beginning or the many crimes committed by themselves. However i can only admit that doubts about American foreign policy are only reiterated on visiting this place and that parellels are everywhere with current conflicts. It's sad stuff, again the new borns and survivors of this tragedy are continuing to suffer today! The use of chemicals and the violence applied on innocent people was unimaginable. Here is a picture made by a young person born with defects due to the chemicals sprayed on the agricultural and life land of these people.

Well we have enjoyed our stay in Saigon but its time to move on. Me and the guys are going to travel together for a while with Seb (german guy) following up the coast. New Bar Hoi's to be found and places to go! At the end of the Vietnam leg i will be going to Laos, i will arrive afew days before to be ready for an enjoyable day on the river in Vieang Vien. Seb was getting ready to do the same dates and funnily we have the same birthday!!! So its a plan to leave Hanoi and head onward together!

We have spent a small while in Muey Ne, with tens of kite surfers and a beautiful beach but due to it being a bit steap price wise and the number of days we have we are now opposite Bar Hoi in Nha Trang! Plan is to stay here a while and all get together again. I will elave you with an old guy and his dog in a typical small shop, Saigon!

written by  50watts on February 22, 2006 from Nha Trang, Vietnam
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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But here i want to tell you how Cambodia ended;

Well Phnom Penh is a strange city, to be honest i don't know where to start explaining it. This old man like so many pedals the streets with the hope he is going to entice someone to part with a small amount of cash. When he isn't asleep that is! Shortly after i took this picture and while finishing my 'special' pizza a pick up arrived and the personal security firm for the pizza joint arrived. In this city security seems to be an obligatory extra for the many small businesses. The police do exist but they just don't really act they way they should! Reporting crime is a joke unless murder or rape and corruption is prevalent everywhere! The leader of the nation lost the elections, but he is still in power, the senior generals of the army and government officials drive $80,000 cars on a mere $100 a month or so wages! Work that one out. But this is Cambodia and this is the normal.

Anyway apart from the old man sleeping there are lots of children. For those not so up to date on Cambodian history, there was a mass genocide by the Khmer Rouge in relatively recent history. The result is that the population is mainly under the age of 20 and mostly at the younger end of that. The other consequences include lots of orphans and many limbless people from the mines left everywhere. It is still dangerous to walk on large areas of country land and people are still being injured today!

Most of my time in the city has been spent chilling out here at the guesthouse with the lake, sunsets and good company of the passing folk. The rest of the capital is mainly visible by day, night isn't really a recomended time to explore. Kim did take me to a club one night and it was good, although playing dodge the hooker(s) for most of the night did get a bit much. Still we danced loads and it was a good laugh! If you want to read a good book about Phnom Penh and can take a bit of graphic and sometimes surreal reality of former times here then try; Off The Rails In Phnom Penh. Although it was written a few years ago shortly after another power struggle its theme still reflects the brutality and often immoral (to a westerner) living standards experienced by the majority of people here today!

Another harsh encounter with Cambodian history can be experienced here at S21. A former school it was converted by the Khmer Rouge into an interogation and camp of the lowest standard. The practices used were horrifying and the brutality to fellow patriots was incredible. If you had any intelect or were even suspected then this is an example of where you were likely to end. After here it was a short journey out of the city and the killing fields. The same story repeated across the country, so many poeple killed and the evidence to this day can be seen with a short walk through the remaining fields and mass graves. Some have not been excavated, there are shoe laces and bones still protruding from the ground, it is a moving experience.

Sadly and the worst example of the otherwise bearable tide of children begging in Cambodia, there were infants demanding money on top of the graves. I struggle to comprehend the reality of this occurence. A common discussion with fellow travellers revolves around this begging issue. It is also known that the money does not obviously fund the individual alone, it is the remaining question of who it is supporting and what their role is that requires more thought.

I left the city for a few days and went to Kampot. A small place with a ghostly feel, the economy is based around agriculture and small amounts of tourism. This was nice because the previous places had more exposure to toursim. I travelled to Kep one day which was ok but nothing great, then i went inland though and had probably the best day in Cambodia. I rode through the countryside with chants of 'hello!' beckoning everytime i passed another child, bike or hut!

The roads of Cambodia although dangerous are simply an invitation to look into the daily lives and living rooms of the happiest people with the biggest nicest smiles i have seen! These are truly remarkable people with an ability to disregard the political mess they are in and concentrate on living well together! There is a friendliness unparallel to anywhere i have been before and the innovative ways they live, work and play together is inspiring!

And that is how i feel upon leaving such a greeat and developing country.

One last note is about a trip i made for 2 hours along a road built over 60 years ago and destroyed every year since either by the weather, vehicles or war. This is the only way to the top of Bokor Hill, when there you arrive above the clouds and in the midst of a deserted complex of buildings spread widely over the area. A hotel and former casino, a former secret meeting place in war times, a church, a temple, this monk above at the temple and a few other buildings. There is no running water, no electricity and the buildings are long abandoned and in disrepair. But it makes one very weird place to be, sneak a look at the pictures and you will see that in one point near the temple you can look directly out over a vertical drop onto the clouds (as if in a plane! but not!)

In cambodia they also fit as many people into as many types of vehicle as possible.Unfortunately i couldn't capture a photo of the 4 adults and 2 children i saw sharing a moped!!!

A crazy place with fantastic (if a little crazy) people!

CAMBODIA!!!

written by  50watts on February 19, 2006 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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Bangkok started to hold on to me and it is quite worrying how easy it is to stay that just another night, maybe thats why so many expats live there in the state they do. Anyways returning from Chang Mai i met Daz and Chris my old flatmates from uni. After the guys left a few days later i met Andres and Alberto from Chile (Fraser Island and Christmas in Oz together) on their arrival in Thailand. Welcome Lenaic and Marie, we stayed together in Chang Mai. And finally my old boss from Nice, Pierre! And Big John from uni also made an appearance by chance! That's Bangkok!

A few memorable nights were had with all and i can only really give a quick summary as at some point you will want to know about Cambodia i'm sure! So...

Daz and Chris, thanks for all the onward info and the stories, im starting to appreciate. Also enjoying the book Chris. Won't drink soda out of a bottle again either!

Pierre, i think of the opportunities like we said and maybe some time spent in Asia working will happen, i would like it. I will be speaking to you again soon i'm sure!

Lenaic, thanks for a fantastic night at the petrol station. It will not be forgotten just like the others!!! Hope you enjoy at least one of those cd's too?

Andres and Alberto, guys that Tuk-Tuk ride was a truely Bangkok experience and seeing the elephant i know made your night! Remember the name of the bar we never found was Bali Bar and its on Ratchunda (near soi 3 but on main road not soi 3). Thats all i know! Good to see you both again and hope to see you in Viet Nam.

A thanks also goes to Mia and Kun who were sublime at sorting everything at my guesthouse in Bangkok. "See its not all same, same!!!"

Well entry wasn't a problem as its reported the border crossing from Thailand can be difficult to say the least but it went pretty well. As soon as you arrive across the border though, you can see the gulf between the two nations. All apart from the huge casinos that occupy the land between the checkpoints of both countries. Another difference is the roads and a close encounter was about to happen. Our taxi decided to go fast along a road that is world famous for its poor condition, pot holes, down bridges and time to finish. At first it was just one of those crazy things you begin to expect out here but then he started racing another taxi. It ended with us explaining to the now policeman/taxi driver of our car why it was a good idea to go slower. The other taxi ended abruptly in the side of a lorry! And if you had seen the number of bikes, cows, chickens, dogs, mopeds, carts and any other vehicle you can imagine there too...

Siem Reap was a strange place. Parallel to the amazing temples and huge area of land they occupy is a population divided heavily between rich and poor. There is much you can read about Cambodia and i suggest you do.

So marvelllous ruins of hundreds of temples amongst some so fantastic they consume you with thought and intrigue. The people work and play by the side of the road and their smiles never fade as you will be able to see from the photo of the family on the moped. My moto guide was Bin and for two days he took me to the places i needed to go to understand a little more about this culture and of course to get some pictures. On the pictures part of the blog are many, so please check them out.

The only thing really to add is the ability of the young children to ask you your nationality. They proceed to tell you the capital and numbers and everything in the hope you buy something from them. As you can imagine this cry for so little is overwhelming when it follows you everywhere but i must admit to taking a fondness of a few of the characters. These two had stealth and were spying my camera from behind as i showed my guide some pictures at lunch. Without knowing i took a picture of them and then i was offered their worldy goods! If you turn their attention to learning and not money then they soon change tact and they learn exceptionally well. So next time teach them to juggle or paper make and if you want buy a postcard!

So i am the capital, just about to go have a wonder on my own at night actually... ok maybe not. But deb i did manage to make it to Same Same But Different and am enjoying the chilled pad by the lake and all it brings. Kim and Sam say hello to you!

More about Cambodia to come...

written by  50watts on February 11, 2006 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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"were they being supervised"

"are they wooden toys or real?"

these guys were waving these distinctively real 'toys' around and around and were very interested in two western guys coming they're way. So the boys played with they're machettes and the girls... well...

It was an interesting stay.

Happy Chinese New Year to all today and hope all are well!

written by  50watts on January 27, 2006 from Chiang Mai, Thailand
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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Well it took me and ricky a few days to come to terms with the events in Southern Thailand. We managed to stumble upon perfect rehabilition though when we touched down in Phang-Nga. Here we met Mr. Keen and he in his ever so Thai friendly way talked us into his tour of the region. So after sorting every detail of our stay down to the laundry and at a more than a reasonable price we settled immediately into the true local thai routine and lifestyle. And we needed it!



In the morning we were being whisked off to the beautiful waters and limestone formations that make the area a highlight of the trip. Just me and ricky in a longboat with our captain cruising through mangroves and into open water like you can see in the picture. Our tour included several stops to go canoeing, cave exploring and eating lunch. It was great to be so isolated from the tourism of the country. The skipper dropped us on a quiet beach for lunch and then without a word he disappeared with boat. So me and ricky played baseball with a piece of tree and a large selection of coconuts. Then it was time to chill out.



Completing the day we were taken to a small muslim stilt village popular during the day for some tourism but true to its real character at night. Well this night we were one of only five guests i believe, with our meals all sorted by Mr. Keen (and friends) we enjoyed a relaxing evening and with no drinking permitted in the village it was refreshing too. We fed the Thai sharks held by the fishermen and strolled the streets of this tiny but surreal village. Imaging a rock surrounded by water and a community that built some houses on stilts next to it... oh and its paradise setting! There was one school, one mosque and a lot of fishing. The families would be sat in their rooms fixing or making nets, the children sporting various european football club t-shirts and always fond to practice their English. We joined the school children for a quick game of football on their one communal exercise area. Every day the local people go there to exercise and yes its stil built on stilts above the water! Its the kind of place where if you drop things you will lose it.

In the morning we continued our tour back on the mainland, we went to a buddhist cave surrounded by monkeys (how many can you spot!) and then a waterfall which was made interesting by the sight of a very large snake crossing our path. Ricky decided that the reest of the trek should involve heavy stamping of the feet and singing, to let the snakes know we were coming of course! Finally we were picked up by Mr. Keen Junior and taken to catch our Bangkok bound bus.

Touchdown in Bangkok was smooth and the art of negotiation eally took on its true form. It seems the anglo-italian link up is quite good though. We have enjoyed some remarkable tales, explanations and depictions for pretty much everything that has a cost to it! Yesterday on the way to the weekend markets we agreed to get the tuk-tuk guy a commision gas ticket if we went to a suit shop for 10 mins 'and looked' 'no buy, look'!!! We know the scams and we play them too, the result a ver y cheap ride to the markets and a happy tuk-tuk driver with gas in the tank! Ten mins to do this is worth it but when they get persistent it can get testing, of course there is a method to deal with this too.

So Bangkok, its a smoggy city with way too much traffic. It must also be the capital city of the T-Shirt, buying them and wearing them seems to be an attraction in itself and yes i did by a few. Its got some true character but slightly too much seems to be achieved through alterior means and that can be annoying at times. I am going to do the major sightseeing here when im back, this part of the journey was about something else!



So on the backpacker mecca that is Khao San Road with its strange going on and dingy guesthouses i spent my last fw days with il drago, Ricky. We have enjoyed meeting some more folk from Ireland, France, Thailand, England and just for Ricky, Switzerland! The nights have been exceptionally late, the culture severely limited and the feeling; well we would not have done it if it wasn't worth it! We have spent some time just walking through the city though, its not that wise if you want to stay healthy but as anywhere it does show you a lot about the place. We also discovered from I-river HQ Bangkok that indeed my treasured music player and holder of some Japan photos is DEAD AND BURIED IN A CORROSIVE LAYER OF SALT! Of course i wasn't too happy about it but so be!

Right well thats been quite enough from me and ricky in Bangkok to all wherever you may be? Its now with true sadness that i leave a fanastic friend and resume a different path. I was given a special T-Shirt as a gift but this one was from Milano and it was a product of Ricky's own making! Ricky is the true Italian backpacker, complete with suitcase (a photo will be posted soon judt for mama!)

Thanks mate, good on'ya mate!

I have enjoyed travelling with you and as we said its the beginning not the end of something new!

So now i better go find him, there is an hour left to get one last beverage and make it a good one!

written by  50watts on January 22, 2006 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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There has been no rest at all, only the crazy experience that is already Thailand. From the secluded Paradise of Toh Koh beach on Koh Phi Phi island to the insane streets of Patong Beach in Phuket. My head is trying to find the point where normality for the Thai people lives!

Well after leaving Singapore airport, it went something like this; flight to Krabi, introduction to the art of speaking to Thai booking agents trying to get to Koh Phi Phi, large boat to the island, taxi boat transfer and mid sea exchange to get to a small sandy spot on the other side of the island. Upon this beach sat a figure and a very shocked Scottish friend reading his book!

ciao

"Sleep less, do more" is the only way to describe what followed.

Getting to bed at 4am having sworn only to have a couple of drinks there was some doubt as to whether i would make the flight. But i never doubted it, and sure enough in not exactly the best state after 2 hours sleep i made it to Sydney airport. Here i recieved word from two friends; Andy from my times in Nice was in Koh Phi Phi (Thailand) and would be there for a few days more; So too were the Italian guys from the Whitsundays again for a few days! Both emails recieved at same time...

But in my state i was more concerned with my plans for the arrival in SE Asia, because no concrete plans were ever made, just those that on the 8th Jan i would arrive in Asia for 3 months to travel much more. By the time i reached the stopover in Bali i had started to think about a few different ideas; stopping in Bangkok before moving on, travelling slowly north through Malaysia and into southern Thailand; plus a few more.

Then as i touched down i decided, book a flight to the nearest point to koh phi phi and make it there to stay for a while before working my way around and back down. So having booked my ticket for less than 35 pounds in McDonalds at the airport and am now awaiting the last couple of hours before my flight.

Bit mad but next stop will now be Koh Phi Phi (Thailand) for a weeks well deserved rest!

written by  50watts on January 8, 2006 from Singapore, Singapore
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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Today its saturday and tomorrow i will end my month stay in Australia. But the trip is not over, oh no...

...as of tomorrow i will start the third and final leg of my trip, Asia. The plans are simple, tomorrow morning i fly to singapore. From there we see what happens.

The trip is going well. As said plans are being realisd for the next leg so until then and until singpore at least, bye!!!

written by  50watts on January 7, 2006 from Sydney, Australia
from the travel blog: Ending 2005 and Starting 2006
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