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exumenius
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Trips:
Down Under trip Preparation
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Dilly-Dally in Darwin - Night 137
Darwin
,
Australia
Living in the northern hemisphere most of the maps we see are not centered on the equator. They usually cut out Antarctica and the much of the vast, empty southern oceans in order to avoid all the unnecessary blue on the map. Thus, we seem to have this internal feeling that Australia is actually much farther south than it truly is. In all reality it is very close to the equator. Darwin sits at 12 degrees latitude, the same as Costa Rica and is much more tropic than places such as Jamaica or Cancun. Miami, for instance, lies at about the same latitude as Brisbane. If you look at a map you suddenly realize that Darwin isn’t all that far from Indonesia.
I say all this because it is monsoon season here, ‘The Wet’ as it is known locally. Consequently it is also the low season for tourists since the rest of Australia is enjoying its best weather, while Darwin it at its worst. This is the first place I’ve been that is not in high tourist season. As a result, most of the people staying in my hostel are Australians or Indian migrants who are working in the area. A nice change from the hoards of British and Germans teenage backpackers that have invaded the rest of Australia.
The weather today was befitting that of a wet season. Extreme humidity coupled with intermittent downpours and episodes of sunshine (that’s for your EJ). All in all, not a very motivating climate to do much more than read and sleep (in my air-conditioned room, which cost an extra $2 a night…the best $2 I’ve spent all trip). I am not the only one who moved at a snail’s pace. Everyone hears just sort of goes through the motions, trying desperately not to move, lest they begin to sweat profusely. After standing in line at Woolworths for nearly 25 minutes, I found the cashier working in what can only be described as extreme slow motion. I don’t think I would have to patience to live here full time. On the other hand, the people are very nice and friendly. Again that worldly dichotomy between efficiency and friendliness rears its ugly head.
The day just sort of floated by and by evening I found myself watch a tightly contest cricket match between Australia and India. The locals had crowded the TV lounge along with the half a dozen Indian day laborers staying at the hostel. After some time, a Kiwi guy and I had a nice long conversation on American politics. The whole world, while somewhat disgusted at the length of our presidential election process (and who isn’t), is extremely interested in it regardless of whatever loathings for America they may hold in the heart.
What I Learned Today: My official (though terribly unscientific) straw poll of non-Americans has Obama winning by a landslide. Nearly everyone I’ve talked to about the election favors Obama and desperately wants to know if I think Americans are finally color-blind enough to elect a minority president. “Perhaps” is my response. I think it all depends on how many young people can be bothered to vote, along with, of course, how the Super-Delegates decide to act in the primary. Interestingly, and a bit of a digress, driving through the City of Katherine I saw a sign saying, “Election next week,
remember: VOTING IS COMPULSORY!”. Mandatory voting….what an idea.
written by
exumenius
on February 24, 2008
from
Darwin
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Katherine Gorge to Darwin - Night 136
Darwin
,
Australia
We awoke early again, though this time to a cool breeze. A small storm had dropped some rain overnight and brought the temperature down to near a comfortable level. After the short drive to the Katherine Gorge
Swimming with the Crocs
National Park we began our three hour hike. About half of the group opted for the $40 boat ride, choosing not to sweat it out on the trail. The walk was very easy, though in the heat most of the unfit in our group were falling behind and complaining quite a bit. Much of the trail offered nothing in the way of views and overall was somewhat of a disappointment. The side track down into the Southern Pool, complete with waterfall and swimming hole, made the trek worthwhile. The cool, cascading water and the slight threat of crocodiles added to the excitement of the swim. On the walk back it began to rain, the perfect way to cool down after the hike.
The Katherine Gorge
Back to the camp for our final group meal, basically a smorgasbord of whatever food was leftover in the coolers. Now we had just three hours left on the road to Darwin. We made our final pit stop in Adelaide River, home to the Adelaide River Pub. The most famous resident of this small town is a stuffed
Charlie the Water Buffalo (of Crocodile Dundee fame)
water buffalo. Not just any stuffed buffalo, this is Charlie, the water buffalo from the Crocodile Dundee movies. Though touching him is strictly prohibited, I managed a quick graze while the bar staff wasn’t paying attention.
Finally we hit Darwin a bit after 5pm. Since leaving Adelaide 12 days ago I’ve put on over 4,600 kms (2,760 miles) in the back of an Adventure Tours bus. It was a relief to step off the bus for one last time. The tours in general were very good, though the group in this last trip wasn’t half as much fun as the group from Adelaide to Alice Springs.
What I Learned Today: Tour groups, like life, are a bit of a crapshoot…you just never know what you are going to get, which is a shame, because the people make all the difference. I could have fun in a strip mall in Indiana with the right people.
written by
exumenius
on February 23, 2008
from
Darwin
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Sweating it out to Katherine - Night 135
Katherine
,
Australia
Today was primarily a driving day. For
The Daly Waters Pub
every 100 kms we made to the north the shades of green increased a slight bit. Finally around
Daly Waters
there was standing water on the ground and cumulus clouds in the air. Just 24 hours ago we were in the bleak desert, now we rolled through the lush tropics.
Daly Waters
Pub, the famous roadhouse, was our stop for lunch. Again we had full use of the pool. Unfortunately we were too early for the Easter Weekend rodeo, one of the biggest events in this part of the world.
Almost There
After lunch we attempted to head to the
Mataranka
thermal pools, however the flooded river thwarted our passage. Not be deterred, Trav phoned the operators of the Matarnka Roadhouse and they brought over a few Land Rovers to ferry us across the swelled river. The hot pools were officially closed, but we jumped the fence anyways. This area is home to freshwater crocodiles which Trav assured us do not attack humans. The saltwater version are much bigger and do, in fact, dine on man, however, they are found much farther north so we needn’t worry about them until late tomorrow up near
Darwin
. The pools were flooded by the river and were about a meter deeper than usual, which was advantageous in that we could dive in. There is something exotic about swimming in crystal clear
Spring
water amongst creeping palm trees and flocks of parrots.
Mataranka Thermal Pools
We camped for the night at Adventure Tours private grounds just outside the
Katherine
Gorge
National Park
. After dinner, Jun played guitar by the fire and we drank beer in the sweltering tropical night. I slept intermittently throughout the night…too hot to get comfortable.
What I Learned Today: In 95 degree heat with 90% humidity, a cold six pack of Cooper’s Pale Ale is like a little slice of heaven.
written by
exumenius
on February 22, 2008
from
Katherine
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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To the Tropics - Night 134
Tennant Creek
,
Australia
My adventure tour from Alice Springs to
The Tropic of Capricorn
Darwin left at 5:30 this morning. Our new driver, Trav, was overly enthusiastic at the early hour and once again no one wanted to ride shotgun so I gladly accepted the honor. Shortly after leaving on Alice on the Stuart Highway we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn; we were now officially rocking in the tropics. Not that you could tell. The area was still a bleak and desolate desert. The true tropical climes don’t begin until another 800 to 900 kilometers north of here. The next stop was the historic Barrow Creek telegraph station where a battle between white pioneers and aborigines occurred back in the 1880s. Trav is a bit of an Aboriginal history buff so I am sure we’ll get plenty of history lessons this tour. One of the things I have
Typical Outback Scenery
been most impressed with on these tours is how much explaining the tour guides do regarding nearly everything. They drive, cook, organize and teach and do a damned good job at all. Later we pulled into Wycliffe Well, the UFO capital of Australia. A strange little roadhouse with an even stranger proprietor. Apparently UFOs have visited this place for weeks in a row. It even has the certification of the official UFO society. I wonder if they are hiring…
The Devil's Marbles
Some bit up the road we came to Devil’s
Me and a Marble
Marbles, a forty-acre site of strange round stones that appear to have been randomly tossed about. Amazing scenery, the short walk around the park was absolutely exhausting. The temperature was well above 100, not a cloud in sight nor a breath of wind. At 21 degrees latitude near the noon hour the sun is absolutely relentless. We lunched at the Walchope Hotel, just a fancy name for a roadhouse a few kms north of Devil’s Marbles. The owner’s daughter works for the Adventure Tours company so we got free access to the pool, which was a huge relief from the heat.
Just north of Tennant Creek we pulled into the Mary Ann Dam for a quick dip in the rust stained water. Already you can start to feel the humidity increase, the flora is more lush, the clouds build…we are entering the beginnings of the Top End, the Tropic portion of Australia. A few hours later the tired bus arrived at Banka Banka, our stop for the night. As we ate our dinner a huge, orange full moon rose above the horizon. It was well after sunset until the breeze picked up and cooled it down enough to sleep. Until then, we drank a few beers around the campfire and listened to stories about Stuart Highway’s notorious rash of disappearances and strange crimes.
What I Learned Today: Regret is a bitch…perhaps the worst feeling one can have. “Live as to eliminate all regret.”…or so says the great sage.
written by
exumenius
on February 21, 2008
from
Tennant Creek
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Scorching in Alice - Night 133
Alice Springs
,
Australia
Thorny Devils
It was well over 100 again today in Alice. Nikki, Rebecca and I braved the heat for a quick walk to the Reptile Museum. Home to some of
Australia
’s deadliest snakes, some very tame lizards and the crazy looking Thorny Devils, the museum was well worth the price of admission. After lunch in the small downtown, we returned to the air conditioning and pool at our hostel. The rest
Pl;aying with Reptiles
of the day was spent working on the journal, uploading photos and relaxing. Tomorrow we leave at 5:30 am for
Darwin
, so another day of nothing was rather welcomed.
I apologize that my journal has been a bit light the last week, however, it is just too much to keep up when you are out in the bush. Taking photos is starting to become a chore as well.
What I Learned Today: I’ve hit the point where I’ve lost track of the days and dates. I have only three weeks left, but no end seems in sight. I think travelling has finally become a habit, it is just what I expect to happen tomorrow. Time has begun to slow down…in a good way. After crossing this Rubicon, I feel that real life will be much tougher to adjust to come March, or April, or
August
, or whenever I return to normal.
written by
exumenius
on February 20, 2008
from
Alice Springs
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Recovering in Alice - Night 132
Alice Springs
,
Australia
Sunset over Alice
I did little to nothing today. Six days of waking up before
Sunrise
and riding in the bus had caught up to me. Catching up on my journal and doing laundry took all the energy I could muster. We did make up it to ANZAC hill for a beautiful sunset over the MacDonnell Range. The walk to the hill and back worked up quite a sweat so we all took a quick dip in the pool prior to heading to bed early for a change.
What I Learned Today: Don’t fall six days behind on your journal.
Chilling in the Pool
written by
exumenius
on February 19, 2008
from
Alice Springs
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Finally Alice Springs - Night 131
Alice Springs
,
Australia
At Kings Canyon
Another early morning as we had to get to Kings Canyon and do the three hour hike before the temperature hit triple digits. We left the trailhead at 7:30 and it was already 84. Kings Canyon is an otherworldly collection of valleys and strange red rock formations all surrounding the one massive central canyon. Perfectly shear rock walls all surrounding a small valley filled with water
Scooter took a Fall
referred to as the Garden of Eden as it provided everything the local aboriginals every needed. A number of the trees here exist nowhere else in the world. Honestly it is almost more spectacular the Uluru, at least for a hiker such as myself. The hike could be done in less than two hours if you are fit, however, moving along with a group (most of whom smoke) takes a lot longer. When we returned to the parking lot at 10:30 the thermometer, which was in the shade, read
97 degrees.
Kings Canyon
Post Trip Pisser at Annie's
Finally
We set off for Alice Springs at noon and arrived in the small desert town around 5pm. By the time we had dropped everyone off at their hostels (we were last) it was past 6pm. A quick shower later and we all walked down to Annie’s Pub for the ritual post-trip meal and drinking bout. By midnight, our numbers had dwindled to seven, so Scooter suggested that we head to his place to help him drink up all his leftover alcohol as he was moving apartments this week.
Uncle Sam Wants You
Not a one of us had any problem with this. Eventually drinking games ensued and the whole lot of us got wickedly drunk. Rumor has it we got home at 4am, though I don’t really remember looking at a clock. We got a bit lost on the way and my superior navigation skills saved us from unintentionally catching the sunrise in some strange corner of Alice Springs. Also, I pulled a calf muscle jumping a fence…my first true Australian drunken wound. The total damage count, one
Crazy Swiss
bottle of Jack, one bottle of Port, four bottles of Champagne (courtesy of Adventure Tours), a few broken glasses, two motor scooter rides, one plastic helmet and seven nasty hangovers.
What I Learned Today: Always choose door #3. (See night 128)
No Idea What is Happening Here
(2)
written by
exumenius
on February 18, 2008
from
Alice Springs
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Onwards to Kings Canyon - Night 130
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
,
Australia
Sunrise at Uluru
Four am comes early when you fall asleep after midnight, though I felt very good as I slept like a log out under the stars. Similar to last night, the crowds were amassed at the sunrise viewing lot and sort of ruined the atmosphere. With a bit of leg work, one could get away for some solitude.
Look....a rock
Small, wavy clouds hung in the eastern sky, making for a great sunrise. Next up was the 9 kilometer base walk around Uluru. As is common, the climb to the top was closed due to wind, though I doubt I would have climbed it anyways (I’m willing to grant the Aborigines their wish that no one climbs it).
The Whale
We said goodbye to Uluru/Kata Tjuta park around noon, had a quick lunch at camp and then set off for Kings Canyon. Along the way is Mt. Connor, a large mesa that looks as though it belongs in Northeast Arizona. Stranger still is that it is privately owned by one of the large cattle ranches in the areas, so the only way to see it up close is to book a tour through the private landowner. About 50 km before Kings Canyon we came across a pack of wild camels grazing near the road. Camels used to be a major form of transportation until the automobile took over. The camels were then released into the wild and have flourished. Australia now has around 250,000 wild camels and even exports them back to Arabia.
Our Kings Canyon Campground
The Fire I Started
We arrived at the Kings Canyon campground in time for a quick swim at the pool and a chance to stock up on beer for the evening. Adventure Tours, our company, has its own secluded campsite at Kings Canyon which is tucked away in a small gorge about 10 km from the main resort. Better still is that they allow us to have a campfire so long as it is for cooking purposes. Naturally I volunteered to start the fire. My helpers, the old Irish guy and the three Koreans proved utterly useless in setting up a fire. I had to can the whole lot and do it myself. With wood this dry, it didn’t take long to have an eye-brow singeing inferno ablaze. The chicken curries and potatoes turned out wonderful. Another night of drinking and making marshmallows over the fire let to a late bedtime. The dingoes howling in the night were no match for my weariness and I quickly fell asleep under the stars again.
What I Learned Today: Americans build the best fires.
written by
exumenius
on February 17, 2008
from
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Uluru and Kata Tjuta - Night 129
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
,
Australia
Up at 4:30 to find that the group next
Halfway There
to us was still up drinking in the warm desert night. I’m guessing it was a long drive south for them the next day. We drove straight through to our campground in Uluru/Kata Tjuta National Park; 8 hours through the undulating semi-desert terrain of the Outback. Along the way we crossed into the Northern Territory, a massive state in Northern Australia that only has five towns with more than 1,000 inhabitants. After a quick lunch at the camp kitchen, we loaded up and drove into the park, past Uluru and down the road to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas).
Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)
The Rock
Identical in color to Uluru, Kata Tjuta was formed by a completely different geological process, though only 45 kilometers away. A collection of 30-some odd shaped red domes of conglomerate rock, Kata Tjuta is both higher and larger than Uluru, though it gets much less press. We did a short group hike into a canyon between two of the largest domes. The much better Valley of the Winds walk was closed due to the high winds in the area. The track was busy and we had to consistently pass and fight with the multitude of other tourist groups in the area. The rocks here are sacred and climbing is not allowed (a $5,000 fine if you do), which is a shame because it would make for some amazing climbing. Think about 36 different shear cliff walls complete with premade hand and foot holds (the agglomerate)…a climber’s dream.
After the short hike we drove to the
Scooter and the Booze
ridiculously packed Uluru sunset parking lot. Most of the Japanese tourists in their modern tour busses had fancy tables with white linen cloth and wine and cheese. Being the cheap backpackers that we are, we had to settle for some crackers and cheap champagne served out of plastic cups. Not a one of us complained. The sunset was great, however, the magic of the moment is sort of ruined by the thousand other people who are there. It would be a great place to have your own vehicle and find a nice, uncrowded lot to watch the sun disappear behind the
Drinking at Uluru
rock. The alcohol had everyone’s spirits up so Scooter drove through the lot with the music at full blast scaring the hell out of the old Asian tourists…all in good fun. Sitting in the front, I had the benefit of the megaphone.
Our evening meal was steak, potatoes and salad.
Our Kitchen
Most people knocked off early as we had a date with sunrise, however, the Swiss guys and the Irish girl stayed up with me and drank our box of wine and played (quite unsuccessfully) the didgeridoo until around midnight. That evening most of us chose to sleep outside on the swags with nothing but the night sky for a roof over our heads.
What I Learned Today: I have no patience for high maintenance
written by
exumenius
on February 16, 2008
from
Uluru (Ayers Rock)
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Welcome to Coober Pedy - Night 128
Coober Pedy
,
Australia
The Beginning of the Stuart Highway
With an eleven hour drive to Coober Pedy in front of us, we departed promptly at 5am. Awaking at such an hour is second nature to me, though many of the other literally had to be dragged from their beds. Scooter was is need of a Kangaroo spotter, someone who wouldn’t fall asleep for the first two hours driving through the dark. Volunteering for this got me the front seat, which with its extra leg room was a bargain at half the price.
After backtracking to Port Augusta, we finally hit paved road at sunrise. About the same time, we returned to an area with cell phone covered and the mass of riders began busily returned texts and calls from the past two days. After four months without a cell phone, I don’t really even miss it (well sort of). Just outside of Port Augusta we turned right onto the beginning of the Stuart Highway, that straight, desolate 1,200 km road to Alice Springs. We wouldn’t leave it for two days.
Lake Hart
Five hours and two toilet stops later we pulled into the Lake Hart visitor’s center. Lake Hart is a massive salt lake that only fills with water once in a decade or so. Strangely, when Scooter was in the military a few years ago, he tested missiles out on this same dry lake bed. The entire area that we were driving through is off limits to civilians (other than those driving through) because it is an international missile testing range for Aussies as well as the Americans and the Brits. The U.S. even tested its Mars Rover vehicles out on these desolate plains. We built a multi-million center and adjacent town for our activities and then when finished sold it all to the Australian Government for one dollar.
Welcome to Nowhere
We arrived in Coober Pedy, the world’s most famous opal mining town, at 4pm. Drunken aborigines laid in the road and strange looking miner-types roamed the streets. Coober Pedy isn’t exactly a center of culture and refinement. Of the 3,000 permanent residents, 80% of them live in old mines under the ground. Our museum tour took us through one such home, and it was actually quite nice, though I don’t think I could deal with the lack of sunlight. We too, would be staying beneath the earth tonight. The natural air conditioning of the ground kept our rooms nice and cool, even when it was over 100 outside.
The Mining Museum
Scooter had arranged for our meal at the local pizza joint, a nice change from barbecued meat and sandwiches for every meal. Post dinner, a few of us headed out to experience the night life in Coober, it was a Friday night, after all. Not much doing. The pubs reminded me of those in any small
Our Underground Accomodation
American town, with the exception of all the ridiculous neon clothing all the men wear and the fact that you could do live horse betting at the bar. We returned early, as we had another 5am start staring us in the face.
What I Learned Today: There is an unwritten man rule that you do not go for what is behind door #3. In otherwords, don’t try to upgrade when you have a good thing going. I violated this rule today and am now regretting it. Only time will show if this was a sound decision.
written by
exumenius
on February 15, 2008
from
Coober Pedy
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Kiwis and Kangaroos
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