Hangi, poi and the haka!

You can't really go to Rotorua without going to a Maori cultural show. They may be very put-on for the tourists, but it's probably the most accessible, best way of getting a taste of Maori culture (and food) in a short space of time.

I opt for the Mitai show, held on tribe-owned land a ten minute or so drive outside of the centre of Rotorua. It's less serious than some of the others; there is a display of songs, Battle stances & weaponry, dancing, and, of course, poi, but there are also plenty of jokes, particularly about the 'ancient' village (built 7 years ago when the cultural show started up) and our night's elected 'Chief Dave', from the UK (well, it's forced onto him, after no-one out of our sixty-strong group, from 17 countries, volunteers.... he's a typically reticent british guy, and doesn't look to pleased with the decision initially!) .

We see our hangi dinner being uncovered from it's steam-cooking pit, and then, after watching some of the young guys who are part of the show paddle along the forest-stream on a Maori canoe, lit by flaming-torches, we move on to the theatre and stage area. There the Maori chief makes a challenge and speech to Dave, and Dave has to make one in return. Then there are the dancing, weaponry, songs and poi displays - with one girl using FOUR long pois at once! - and a quite terrifying, goose-bump inducing haka (particularly since I'm sitting in the middle of the front row next to Chief Dave). Those taking part are generally young men and women, in their twenties, who giggle when they drop things or make mistakes, helping the whole seem more relaxed, less weird & false. The cultural shows, as the chief explains, are both sources of tourist revenue, but also a way of keeping their traditions alive in the younger generation. We also learn about the symbolism of the tattoos the men and women wear (all the facial ones tonight drawn on, semi-permanently), and get an explanation the meaning of some of the chants and songs.

The hangi is good too - though I can't comment on the meat part - the kumara and white potatoes are sweet and smoky... and the chocolate roll for dessert is obviously absolutely authentic! After dinner we split into groups for a torch-lit glow-worm hunt in the forest, finishing at the tribe's sacred spring. Although it couldn't have been more touristy, the show managed to balance this by being genuinely fascinating and educational - much more informative in the performance of the Maori traditions than a museum exhibition could ever be.

written by

LizIsHere on March 30, 2010 from Rotorua, New Zealand

from the travel blog: New Zealand & Australia 2010

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