Kepler Track, Day One - Night 98

I began the three day Kepler Track hike today.

Arriving too late last night, I had to wait until the Department of Conservation office opened at 8:30am in order to pick up my hut permits. The office was stuffed with a large, older crowd of hikers milling around awaiting transport to the trailhead; my hiking companions I assumed. I, on the other hand, had decided to walk to the start, a quick 45 minute warm-up march from Te Anau.

The Limestone Cliffs

At the control gates (basically a dam) that hold back the waters of Lake Te Anau the trail began amidst a complete lack of fanfare. The first two hours (according to the DOC) was a flat run along the lake. A pleasant walk, it meandered through old growth forest along a soft, almost bouncy, well-worn trail. About half way through I began to pass the first of many of the large group. Quite luckily I caught the main contingent during their morning tea at Brod Bay and thus avoided an additional 40 “excuse mes” on the way up.” At Brod Bay the trail turned inland and began to switchback its way up the hill. After passing some limestone cliffs, suddenly the trees end and the sub-alpine terrain begins. Being nearly noon, I took advantage of the last bit of shade – it was a perfectly sunny day – and had a brief lunch just below the treeline. Forty minutes later I stood on the deck of the Luxmore Hut, the first arrival for the day.

Being the first one to a hut has one obvious

The Luxmore Hut

advantage: you get to choose the best bed in the place. I settled in and then took a brief side adventure to the Luxmore Caves, just a kilometer away. Lacking a flashlight I only explored as far in as the light shown. On my way out a pair of guys from Washington D.C. showed up; the only other Americans in the Hut. In fact, checking the visitor registry I was the ninth hiker from the U.S. to stay there this year. Strange considering we were outnumbered by people from such small countries as Poland and Israel. In the afternoon I lay down in the tall tussock grass for a much deserved nap.

The View

Cooking the evening meal was a challenge. The large contingent of old hikers from Auckland had literally taken over the kitchen. Sitting down to eat, I discovered that there were 41 of them (out of 50 total people in the hut). The other eight hikers were a couple from Switzerland, a couple from Denmark, two English women and the two American guys. It was a group organized by the Lions Club, or something, in Auckland, so naturally they were an aged group, but quite friendly. During the meal, one of the oldest members of their group passed out and fell off his bench. No one seemed too worried; apparently he had done this before. Around 10pm everyone sort of sauntered off to bed, tired from day.

Total Distance Covered: 16.8 km (10.58 miles)

What I Learned Today: The New Zealand Department of Conservation’s hike time estimates are as flawed, if not more so, that those of the Wellington Council. I think even the 70-year old ladies beat the estimates given in the brochure and on the signs.

written by

exumenius on January 16, 2008 from Te Anau, New Zealand

from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos

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