Kepler Track, Day Two - Night 99

I awoke to a scattering of snores and groans.

Combined with the howl of the wind and the pounding rain on the tin roof the whole auditory scene was a symphony of agony. The forecast had been for rain early, and rain it did. Except for a few brave (or foolish) souls, most of us waited it out until 8:30 when the warden came down to address the group. Her report said that it should clear by noon and she suggested we get underway, cautiously though.

In the Emergency Shelter

Rain today was especially bad for two reasons: 1) nearly the entirety of today’s hike is exposed ridgeline (at 5,000 feet, no less) offering no protection from foul weather; 2) nearly the entirety of today’s hike is exposed ridgeline offering amazing views in all directions. The first hour and a half was pure pain. The wind blew at a constant 40kpm, gusting up to probably 70kmh, some of the worst weather I have ever been out in. The rain came down from all directions, at times it even seemed to blow uphill. To test this, I spit and it did indeed disappear uphill over the ridge. The reason being that the clouds come through the lake valley and then have to go up and over the ridge, taking rain, spit and everything with it. For a bit the visibility was down to 10 meters or so, just like driving in a Wisconsin

The Iris Burn Falls

snowstorm. Eventually the clouds cleared, but the wind howled on. I stopped briefly at the two emergency shelter huts to grab some food and water and enjoy the relative peace and quiet of the indoors.

By the time the trail began to descend the ridge into the valley the sun had come out, making it a rather nice, albeit blustery, day. The way down is always the worst for me, especially with a pack on. Every step tests the patellar tendon and the thigh muscles. Eventually I was back into the beech forest and arrived at the Iris Burn Hut around 1pm, again the first one home. Dumping my pack, I made lunch and then headed to the Iris Burn waterfall some 1.5 kilometers down a side track. A good diversion, I also tried to take a short bath but the freezing water relegated my hygienic heroics to a simple splash here and there of ice water. It would have been nice to lie by the falls on the rocks for a bit but the sandflies made this an impossibility.

Down the Ridge

Nothing much happened in the evening as everyone was sequestered inside due to the flies. Bedtime again coincided with the sunset.

Total Distance Covered: 14.6 km (9.19 miles)

What I Learned Today: Sandfly bites are at least thrice as painful as those from mosquitos. And itch like you wouldn’t believe.

written by

exumenius on January 17, 2008 from Te Anau, New Zealand

from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos

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