“In the end, though, maybe we must all give up trying to pay back the people in this world who sustain our lives. In the end, maybe it’s wiser to surrender before the miraculous scope of human generosity and to just keep saying thank you, forever and sincerely, for as long as we have voices.”
-Elizabeth Gilbert

Soon after we arrived in Langa, we took a walking tour of the township to get a better feel for its history and people. We started out at Lagunya, a sort of trade school that attracts matric-level students from the four major Cape Town townships (Langa, Gugulethu, Nyanga, and Khayelitsha). I immediately noticed the heavy police presence; officers casually walked around the gated entrance carrying large knives and guns. I later learned that the school also served as a pension collection center, which required extra security – a necessary precaution in this culture of poverty. Dr. Sean Fields, director of the Centre for Popular Memory, joined us and presented a video that he made in an attempt to preserve the stories of the dying generation of people that have experienced both pre- and post-apartheid South Africa. The people he had interviewed were among first to be forcibly removed from an area called Ndabeni and relocated to government-planned Langa. The removals took place during the 20’s and 30’s as part of the larger project to “cleanse” the city of blacks, keeping them confined within townships and restricting their freedom by requiring them to carry government-issued passes (“dompas”) at all times. The words of the people who had endured this process and still remain in Langa today were full of pain, but they also reflected the incredible strength of these people and the community that has been built here.

Two tour guides from Tsoga, an environmental organization nearby, began the walking tour by explaining the so-called “four worlds” of Langa– subsidized housing, the working class area, the hostels, and the informal settlements. The extreme socioeconomic disparities that exist within Langa was shocking, as housing ranges from the decent-sized homes of government workers to the shacks of Joe Slovo—which are impromptu shelters made of whatever scraps are available, and lack electricity and running water and even sturdy walls. We frequently hear of fires in the informal settlements, which can destroy dozens of shacks in just a few minutes time. The city has plans to demolish Joe Slovo pretty soon, claiming that apartments will be provided for the people who currently live in the shacks.

Walking through Langa, I became increasingly aware of my whiteness, and not just because I could feel my skin getting redder under the harsh midday sun. I wondered what people thought of us, not wanting to give the impression that we were there to judge or make a spectacle of their lives. Meanwhile, small children crowded around us, grabbing our hands and sometimes walking with us for several blocks. People selling wood carvings, beaded jewelry, and other crafts persistently tried to get us to buy their products. We walked by people cooking lamb’s head, a.k.a. smiley, on the street—something that has since become commonplace (in the context of Langa, not on my dinner plate!). We all felt really uneasy and out of place during the tour, but it was good to contextualize our stay in Langa by getting to witness its various areas and people.

Last weekend we had a two-day Peacebuilding Workshop with the Direct Action Centre for Peace and Memory. The DACPM was founded by Yazir Henry, who just so happens to be the son of Desi—the wonderful ex-cricket player who drives my bus. Yazir left home at the age of fifteen to join the MK (Umkhonto we Sizwe – the armed resistance group formed by Nelson Mandela). He leads the workshop with several other members of the DACPM, who have similar backgrounds to Yazir. Forming a personal relationship with these ex-freedom fighters was incredibly humbling, and we had an ongoing dialogue throughout the weekend about the meaning of peace—for South Africa, for the US, and for ourselves.

This past weekend we took the train to Simonstown, a nearby seaside town that is in stark contrast to Langa, with its multi-million rand homes and high frequency of white tourists. We stayed at a really cute bed and breakfast, which was a nice break from the bed bugs for many of us. On Saturday I walked down to Boulders Beach with several other girls…and we hung out with hundreds of African penguins all afternoon. Penguins were everywhere – on the rocks, under the rocks, lying on the beach, gliding through the clear blue water. They did not seem at all bothered by our presence. The weather was absolutely beautiful, and we spent a few hours on a deserted stretch of sandy beach, climbing over boulders and wading in the still ocean. Mountainous silhouettes loomed above the horizon, separating the deep blue of the sea from the bright blue sky. I could have stayed there for days, but we soon piled into the vans and drove out to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope—the most southwestern point of South Africa. On the way we drove by a family of baboons (yeah, really) walking next to the road. Later we had to stop and wait for a group of ostriches to cross the street. We climbed the steps to the lighthouse at the top of Cape Point, pausing every once in awhile to soak up the breathtaking views. All day long I could not stop thinking about how much my family would have loved to be there—and how much I would have loved to share the experience with them. Maybe someday I’ll be back here with them…

On Sunday we had our Farewell Langa party. All 22 of us and our homestay families ate, danced, laughed, and sang, and now we are preparing to say goodbye. We leave on Friday to go to the Eastern Cape for a weeklong rural homestay, followed by a week in Durban. We return to Cape Town on March 23rd, and I will probably not have access to a computer until then. Thank you so much for all of the wonderful comments and messages of support—it means so much to know that people are thinking of me. You are in my thoughts as well, and I wish you all the best in the coming weeks!

“Many people ask me what I have learned from all of the experiences in my life, and I say unhesitatingly: People are wonderful. It is true. People really are wonderful.”
-Archbishop Desmond Tutu

Be well,
Cari

written by  CariLeighAnn on March 3, 2008 from Langa, South Africa
from the travel blog: Semester Abroad: South Africa
Send a Compliment

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Awesome, Cari!

Speechless and reflective in Sterling,
Mom

written by  Cheryl on March 5, 2008

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i just have to ask because its really been bugging me...did you pet the penguins?? because i would have haha. i'm really jealous of the beautiful scenery, the amazing experiences and all that you have learned. i can't wait till you get home so i can hear about them first hand. miss you and love you cari.

written by  Joel Nash on March 5, 2008

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Thanks for updating! I so much enjoy reading about your African life. And the pictures are beautiful. You are in our thoughts and prayers!

Love you!

Kara

P.S. I once heard Archbishop Desmond Tutu speak on his work with the Truth and Reconciliation Commission.

written by  Kara on March 6, 2008

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Cari, it is such a pleasure again to hear from your adventures. I am like Joel, did you pet the penguins? I could not believe how close to them you were. You will never again have the learning experiences that you are having now. I think it is marvelous that you have been able to be on this adventure. Can't wait to see your pictures, love Judy

written by  Judy Birckhead on March 10, 2008

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Cari
You are an amazing writer! WOW! It sounds like you are making the absolute most out of the trip and enjoying all the experiences! I can't wait to hear about it and see pictures firsthand on my next visit up to NOVA. Take good care of yourself, and travel safely! Thinking about you often!! XOXO
Love, Amber

written by  Amber Espey on March 11, 2008

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Cari,

I am just in awe of the experience in which you have written. It instills in me the desire and reminder, to learn and experience as much as one can about life and the world. Take care, and safe travels.

Kay

written by  Kay Lemmon on March 24, 2008

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