So here I sit, resting after Sunday lunch while Mama Nomsa naps in her room. I arrived yesterday to her humble but warm home on Mendi Ave. in Langa, which is the oldest black township of Cape Town. Nomsa welcomed me with open arms, informing me that my Xhosa name is Nombulelo (meaning ‘thanks’), or Buli for short. We sat together and got acquainted, sharing photos of family and friends and drinking hot tea (which I just might learn to love). Nomsa told me a little bit about her family: she has two children who live in the Eastern Cape, and a sister from Langa who is away for her son’s celebration as he comes home after several months in the bush. She showed me around her two bedroom house: the front room with couch, table, stove, sink, refrigerator, and small TV on which we’ll be watching “Generations”- the local favorite soap opera. At the back of the house, there are two small rooms: one with toilet and bathtub, and the other with a shower. I have my own bedroom, complete with bunk beds and a chest of drawers. It’s been nice to finally unpack after living out of my suitcase for the last week and a half! Nomsa told me a little bit about the area, lamenting the shebeens (pseudo-legal establishments that sell alcohol) and the activities that occur there. Several times since I’ve been here she’s mentioned the problem with drugs and alcohol that exists here, wishing that her neighbors would accept God into their lives and be healed. She belongs to a gospel church in the nearby township of Nyanga and is strongly committed to her faith.

Noise is constant here in my little corner of Langa. Day and night, people shout, sing, and laugh. Last night I fell asleep to fast-paced music and loud expressive voices that sounded as if they were right outside my window. I awoke to praises being sung in the street, which have gradually given way to laughter, music, and slamming doors as the day drags on. Despite the concerned responses that we have gotten from people in Cape Town when they learn that we are staying in Langa, I feel very safe. Apparently even the taxis refuse to come here at night, fearing the worst in this area that is known for its crime and poverty. One of the most common problems is theft of cell phones, which are then sold on the street for several rands. Both Nomsa and Shane (the SIT Academic Director) have given warnings about using cell phones on the street. We are not supposed to carry bags, either, or give any obvious sign of wealth. With vigilance and common sense, I’m sure I’ll be fine here.

So I’ve skipped about a week and a half of my time in South Africa, most of which was spent in Johannesburg, and some in Cape Town. After the 18 hour flight here, the group (22 of us, plus Shane, Nomewethu (“Mama”), Tabisa (“Sisi”), and driver Joe) spent five nights at the Diamond Diggers backpacker’s lodge just outside of Joburg. We went into the city several times, beginning to orient ourselves as well as educate ourselves about the history of South Africa. Among the places we visited were MuseuMAfrica, Constitutional Court, the Hector Pieterson Memorial, the Mandela House, and the Apartheid Museum. Visiting Soweto (short for South Western Townships) was incredibly eye-opening, as we learned about the Soweto uprising of 1976. Under the apartheid mandate of “Bantu Education”, it had been authorized that Afrikaans be the language in which school was taught—even though very few black South Africans spoke it. Even the teachers did not speak Afrikaans, and were forced to attempt to teach using the language of oppressive white South Africa. On June 16, 1976, over 15,000 schoolchildren organized a march to protest the forced use of Afrikaans in secondary schools. Police panicked and opened fire on the children, the first of which to die was 13-year-old Hector Pieterson. The chaos spread to every town and township in South Africa, resulting in countless injuries and deaths of children, police, and anybody who got in the way. I felt completely ignorant to the struggle of this country, as this was the first time I had ever even heard of the Soweto uprising. It got me thinking about the U.S.—what injustice, if any, could trigger such a massive response amongst the youth of America? Anyway, learning about these tragic events was just the start of my education about the struggle against inequality in South Africa.

So much could be said about the Apartheid Museum…but I don’t think I can write about it just yet. It was an emotional day for all of us.

“The shadow of a mighty Negro past flits through the tale of Ethiopia and of Egypt the Sphinx. Throughout history, the powers of single blacks flash like falling stars, and die sometimes before the world has rightly gauged their brightness.”
-DuBois

Every afternoon, thunderstorms rolled across Joburg. Rain, thunder, and lightning pounded down upon the city for just a few hours. On our second night, the power went out and we all sat in the small pub that was part of the lodge and ate our stew by candlelight. [As I sit here and write this, the rain picks up outside and Nomsa comes out of her bedroom – “Ah, it is raining cats and dogs!”] That was the first night that the group really began to bond, and we have since become good friends. Shane, the scatterbrained little Irish man in charge of our academics, provides us with a lot of entertainment. Nomewethu, who insists that we call her Mama, really is our mother. She is warm and loving, and always a comforting presence. And Tabisa, the student liaison, is adorable. She is forever laughing at us, especially when we try to speak in Xhosa.

Classes have sort of been going on since we’ve been in South Africa, although the real routine starts tomorrow. I will be picked up around 7am by Desmond, who will be gathering 8 of us to go to the SIT classroom in Rondebosch, where we meet the rest of the group. Xhosa class starts at 8:30, followed by a lecture on the political economy of South Africa. We have a break in the middle of the day for about 3 hours, then Xhosa tutorials before we head home at 5pm. Every weekday for the next month will be set up like this…then we hop on a plane and head to East London for the rural homestay.

That’s enough for now…if you’re reading this, please know that I miss you and love you and hope that all is well. I’ll try to update fairly soon. Feel free to email- I would love to hear from you!

Usale kakuhle,
Cari

P.S. I’m now posting this from the little internet café near our classroom in Rondebosch – Cocoa Wah Wah. Mom, Dad, and Joel – miss you and love you!

written by  CariLeighAnn on February 11, 2008 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: Semester Abroad: South Africa
tagged Joburg and Langa
Send a Compliment

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Cari,

Wow! Much has happened to you in the last week. It all sounds very interesting and I know you will learn so much. We miss you and can't wait to hear more about your adventures. Please send our love to your friends and African families. We remember you all in our prayers and wish you open minds to learn about each other and how to make the world a better place for all of us! Stay safe!

Love,
Mom

written by  Cheryl Nash on February 11, 2008

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Hi, Miss Buli! Hope you stay healthy and comfortable while there in Africa. Is it very hot where you are? Enjoyed your blog about what you have seen so far and where you will be going next. Here it is a beautiful day and the wind has been blowing since yesterday. My thoughts and prayers are with you every step of the way. Much love, Judy

written by  Judy on February 11, 2008

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I read your message on the 18th anniversary of Nelson Mandela's release from prison. I think you are living his message. I will write more later, but wanted to say hi and thank you for sharing your thoughts so far. Have fun, learn much, and stay safe.

written by  Dad on February 11, 2008

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When I was reading your letter I could help but to pause and remember that I was reading something that a twenty something was writing and not a world scholar. I'm very proud and couldn't be happier for you. You go Cari and make your mark on this wonderful world of ours.

The weather here has turned back to winter. Last week was were in the 70's. I even had to cancel my weekly ski program because it was too warm.

Take care of yourself and give my best to your second mom and tell her that she is so very lucky to have you in her life.

Love, Karen

written by  JiffyK on February 11, 2008

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Hi Buli,
I have been thinking about you, and your trip to S. Africa. I am so glad you are blogging. We will learn so much from you and your experiences. Take care, and all the best to you, and all your families.

Kay

written by  Kay Lemmon on February 11, 2008

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Cari-
I envy you this experience. Soak it in and share it with us. Your writing is fascinating and fabulous. I can't wait for the second installment. When you return, I hope you will be fluent in another language. Thinking of you, Sue Axmear

written by  Sue Axmear on February 12, 2008

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Hi, sweet Cari/Buli!
I have reread your blog several times, & am blown away with your writing, wisdom, outlook & perspective. I am truly blessed to know you, & can't wait to hear all about the next few months. Molly misses you TERRIBLY, by the way. I hope you know that you are surrounded by love and prayers ... give your THIRD mama a hug for me, & I'll write again soon.
Cathleen xoxoxo

written by  Cathleen Pannell on February 12, 2008

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Cari,
Thanks for keeping us all updated on your adventures! We love you and miss you! I am so impressed with you studying abroad in South Africa. You are in our thoughts and prayers. We look forward to reading more about your adventures. Kailey and Darin say "hi" also:)

Love,
Kara

written by  Kara on February 12, 2008

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Hey, great blog! Keep the updates coming! I'm glad to see you're enjoying yourself.

Mike

written by  Mike on February 12, 2008

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Dearest Cari,

Yay! Finally a blog entry! I hope that you are enjoying every moment and making incredible memories. I miss you tons but can't be sad because I know you are having the most incredible experience. Stay safe and keep us all updated.

Thinking of you daily,

Starbuck

written by  Catherine Melton on February 12, 2008

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Cari,
Great blog, I thought you were the math and science one in the family and I was the writer though...maybe I'll go try some trig or something lol. Seriously though, have fun, stay safe and know that I'm really proud of you. Love you and hopefully talk to you soon, Joel.

written by  Joel Nash on February 13, 2008

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Cari,
I am so impressed with your journey so far! I can't wait to hear more. Please keep safe and soak up the culture. We will be praying for you and your classmates and all the new friends you are making!
Val

written by  Val Quick on February 16, 2008

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Cari,

I'm Kara's step-dad. She sent me to your blog because I lived in South Africa (1955-1956) as a kid. Though my memories are faded, the photo of Table Mountain popped out at me. I'm sure Cape Town is great place to be.

I lived in Pietermaritzburg where my father was doing a sabatical breeding corn (Maize) at the University of Natal. We took a train trip down the coast to Cape Town.

Our church in Allentown sends a Mission to South Africa northwest of Joburg. So, I've added your blog to my "favorites" and look forward to reading about your adventures there.

Andy Wernham

written by  G Andrew Wernham on February 22, 2008

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Hey Buli:

Wow, I had no idea that you were such an amazing writer. Do I see a book of some sort in your future... I try to place myself in your shoes and cannot even begin to imagine the experiences you are having. It makes me realize more deeply about the changes that are a'coming and how deely connected we are on all levels.

So sweetie, your Mom, Sandra, Cathleen and I are celebrating Cathleen's birthday again I am sure.

Sandra and I are exploring Bejjing over Easter Weekend together. Cannot wait to see the great Wall and the Forbidden City, I a m having fun exploring new cities with UAL.

Whitney is looking for an internship out in CA. Nothing has come up yet. And Elisabeth and Lindsey are in the Fantastics Play at the end of the month. It will be fun.

Take care dear one and we look forward to hearing from you on this amazing journey.

love,
Beverly

Dear Cari:

Sandra is waiting for divine inspiration to come forward because I am her personal secretary today as she cooks and makes us a divine dinner. Hmmmm...still waiting for her words....Ok so she says to send you her love and we talk about you alot. and it is all good.

Be safe and much love, Sandra

written by  Beverly Moore on March 3, 2008

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Dear Cari,

I am so very proud of you! You are an amazing writer and I have so enjoyed reading your entries. The photos are amazing. I can read and look at the photos and only begin to imagine what you are experiencing.
Savor every moment! You are making memories to last a lifetime!

Please know that we are thinking of you and love you very much! Stay safe! Deb, Bill and Carly

written by  Debra Dillon on March 14, 2008

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