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¡Viva Guápulo!

Quito, Ecuador


What an adventure! Last night I went with my classmates and other friends to the neighborhood of Guápulo in Quito for the celebration of the virgin of Guápulo held in the church plaza. The taxi took us through a winding maze of narrow, steep cobblestoned streets as far as he could and then we walked the rest of the way, following the sound of music. I wouldn't say the hills were alive, but the energy coming from the church plaza was palpable.

Upon first sight, I was overwhelmed. At least a thousand people crowded into this stone courtyard--people of all ages and lifestyles. Many children dressed up as clowns or gorillas joined their parents in the festivities. Other adults dressed as gorillas, cowboys, bulls, conquistadors; others wore masks and carried cages on their backs with live chickens, or in once instance, a teddy bear inside.

Everyone was so excited and full of life. Apparently this entire weekend is a party for this neighborhood as they celebrate their saint's day. Along with the dense crowd, there were dozens of food and drink stands and also a tent that housed a few fooseball tables. On the far end of the plaza a stage was constructed and a band played. With such energy and beats, it was impossible not to dance. And in Ecuador, if there is no dancing, it's not a party!

At one point, the music stopped and a man announced that the vaca loca, the crazy cow, would now be making an appearance. He was right! A man yielding a paper-maché cow spewing fireworks and sparks into the crowd made his way through the mass of people. From a far, this seemed quite hilarious, but as he came closer and the vaca loca starting backfiring, it was a bit more intense. As whole fireworks were shot out of the cow, the crowds were forced to duck rather than be hit. Luckily my friend Laura ducked just in time and missed catching a spiraling firework with her face.

When the cow was partially on fire and out of ammo, he left the scene and the crowd was getting more and more into this new vibe. A crowd of guys moved a 30ft tower into the center of the plaza and soon more fireworks were lighting the dark night sky. Costumed party goers and others like myself joined in the festivities, dancing around this explosive tower, sparks flying everywhere. It was exhilarating! They definitely have a different way of celebrating than I am used to, but I loved to observe and be a part of this cultural experience.

Into the wee hours of the morning (and presumably all night, though I didn't stay for all that time) the music continued and three rounds of firework towers were constructed and set off during my time. Dancing, laughing, running away from the men in bull costumes trying to gore you (in jest, of course, but still slightly painful and awkward), and enjoying the company of friends and hundreds of strangers. That was my night.

It was a night of new things for us all and a way to kick back and enjoy our time together outside of the classroom. Dancing is something that is so integral in Ecuadorian culture that I hadn't experienced yet, though I am sure I will have more practice in the coming weeks and months. I can't wait!

I know this fiesta seems strange and maybe even mythical, but you're just going to have to take my word for it. Like many events and places I go regularly in Ecuador, I don't bring my camera. Just being light skinned and fair haired brings me enough unwanted attention. Of course, it doesn't lead to anything--just me ignoring comments as I walk past or avoiding quizzical looks. No worries. I've got my street smarts. I hope my words are descriptive enough to give you a glimpse of this small part of the culture I have found here thus far.

permalink written by  Theresa on September 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador
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