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Grub's Up

Livingstone, Zambia


My desire to experience as much African culture as possible lead to one of the more interesting dinners I have eaten, not just on this trip but in my life. Fried vinkubala, or caterpillars to you and me, was not a meal I particularly enjoyed, and it is safe to say I wont be eating them again. But as the old saying says, when in Rome...

I had only gone into the market in Livingstone to purchase a few vegetables, yet came back to my backpackers with an unusual taste in my mouth and half of kilo of dried caterpillars in my bag. You could say I only have myself to blame, as had I just walked past Banyina's stall I would never have brought the damn things, but curiosity got the better of me when I saw a giant dish full of fat grubs.

At first I didn't believe people actually ate them, that was until Banyina - the lovely lady who was selling them - grabbed a handful and started popping them into her mouth like sweets. She offered me one to taste for myself, but as much as I wanted to just grab one and eat it my hand wouldn't do as my brain was telling me - if only I had taken this as a sign I would have eaten spaghetti bolognase for dinner as planned.

Finally, after a few locals had eaten some to prove they were not so bad, I took one and put it straight in my mouth without thinking about it - past experiences had taught me not to think about the weird foods you are eating. At first I thought this isn't so bad, apart from being very dry and crunchy there was no real taste, but then this odd taste filled my mouth leaving me in desperate need for something a lot tastier to eat. Sensing this Banyina handed me a carrot which I began crunching on instantly, much to the delight of my taste buds.

Despite this less than enjoyable experience I thought I may as well buy some and see what they are like cooked, and so I left the market with a bag full of them and a recipe that I was assured would make them a whole lot tastier. Back at the backpackers, and after a few drinks to take my mind off the thought of dinner, I began the cooking process.

Banyina Mutinta's Caterpillar Delight

Ingredients:
Lots of dried vinkubala (caterpillars)
3 fresh tomatoes
3 onions
3 green peppers
Large bunch of kalembula (sweet potato leaves)
5 cloves of garlic
3 Fresh chillies
Lots of salt
Cooking oil

Method:
Bring a large pan of water to the boil, add dried caterpillars and take off the heat. Allow the caterpillars to sit in the water and rehydrate for ten minutes. In the meantime cut two onions, two tomatoes and all three of the green peppers into small pieces and fry them in a pan with the kalembula, chillies and garlic.

Once the caterpillars are hydrated, and big and squishy and slimy, drain them and add to a pan with hot cooking oil in. Fry those lovely little would-be-butterflies until they are crispy, adding as much salt as you desire. Once crispy add the remaining onion and tomato, finely chopped, into the pan with a little chilli and allow to fry for a further five minutes.

Serve together with the kalembula mix and as much extra chilli you need to mask the taste of the caterpillars.

Whilst I ate a good twenty caterpillars I cant say they were particularly nice, and left an unsavoury taste in the back of my throat all night. And no matter how many beers I drank the taste was still there, as it was the following morning when I woke up.

So in case anybody doubts me on this, take my word for it, caterpillars are not, I repeat not, a suitable replacement for spaghetti bolognase or any other food. In fact they should be left to do what mother nature intended of them, turn into butterflies. But if you still doubt me venture into the market in Livingstone and ask for Banyina Mutinta and she will gladly sell you a bag full to try for yourself.

permalink written by  MarcusInAfrica on May 11, 2009 from Livingstone, Zambia
from the travel blog: Cape to Cardiff
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Hi Marcus

We are following ur travels with much interest. However we will definitely not be having caterpillars for dinner.

Stay well and safe
Your neighbours at Bramber Court

permalink written by  Diana Henning on May 19, 2009

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