As I cycle the last few miles from Invercargill to Bluff, in conditions so grey and dull that I have my rear light on and the cars all have their headlights on, I reflect again on the trip. It has been truly amazing. There had been a little empty corner of my mind just waiting to be filled by those perfect mountain and lakeside scenes. But it was too immense, too beautiful, too everything to take it all in, no matter how long I stood gazing, goggle-eyed. Did I really cycle up Lindis Pass? sit by Lake Tekapo? look down on Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables? It already seems a somewhat dreamlike memory. So many amazing scenes, smells, stars, silences and friendly and helpful people along the way.
Still, there are more important things in life than looking at mountains. I miss my wife and family and friends back home. I wish I had had someone with me to share and, in future, reminisce with about these experiences. I am sure we will come back to New Zealand; there is so much more to see.
Bluff nestles below "The Bluff" hill itself. The "Welcome to Bluff" sign is about the only colourful thing about the town, which seems rather neglected, though the people I talk to are cheerful and friendly, as they have been everywhere in New Zealand.
As we glide to a stop at Stirling Point, the end of the road, the sun breaks through the clouds and the point itself suddenly looks very attractive in the sunshine.
I say to Claud: "Well, Claud, you are a legend!(in fact, a Claud Butler Legend) We've done it - Cape Reinga to Bluff in 20 days! At this moment, I feel almost as one with the astounding land of the long white cloud. I'm sad to finish, really. What about you, Claud? Tell me your inner thoughts?"
But then Claud adds, perhaps more aptly for the occasion:
"A upane kaupane whiti te ra! Hi!"
THE END
PS By the way, you may wonder why you have never seen Claud's face on this blog. Well, that's only because, like his saddle, it has been covered all this time, by the bar bag. But the handsome visage of my faithful companion for the last three weeks can now be revealed.
Distance today: 62 Km, cumulative: 2313 Km, remaining: 0 Km
The explanation comes later, after we check into the Winton Hotel (est. 1889). I ask why everyone in town has a Scottish accent. "Och, it's because we're a' sheep shearers frae Scotland, over tae help the kiwis shear their sheep fur the season." replies my Winton Hotel guest interlocutor. Boy, do these Scots lads ever shear the sheep closely, though!
After five luges last night and an hour admiring stupendous views of Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu, I meet up with Craig, from Swansea, and Beccy from Southampton (a teacher). They are on their nine-month honeymoon, travelling the world, having given up their jobs in Gosport.
In the morning, the cycle along the edge of Wakatipu, with morning misty clouds on the flanks of the Remarkables range, is another and, probably final, amazing Vista for my cycling adventure.
To my left, the sides of the mountains are so sheer that, in shadow, they appear to be rising above me like an immense, concave, jagged-toothed tidal wave, about to crash onto the valley below - very scary!
The mountains and lakeside finally give way to fairly flat (apart from the Devil's Staircase and Josephville Hill) farmland.
Distance today: 159 Km, Cumulative: 2251, Remaining: 60 Km
Claud and I contemplate the hills ahead. There are some pretty testing climbs and, combined with headwinds, they make for tough cycling into and out of the aptly-named Beautiful Valley.
Fairlie is not really a tourist place and I have a very quiet night in a cabin in a deserted camper van site, watching a beautiful sunset over the distant mountains. Time for laundry again.
Distance today: 100Km, cumulative: 1778 Km, remaining: 503 Km
At Lake Tekapo, there is a statue in honour of the loyal, smart and hardy border collie dogs which used to be left at the perimeters of huge early sheep stations, before these were fenced. These amazing dogs would stay on their own for days on end, watching for, and turning back, any stray sheep.
"Yes, and there is also a statue to the brave and hardy bicycles who have carried their fat-arsed riders up and over Burke's Pass over the decades!" says Claud. "Oh no, there isn't, Claud", I retort. "That's not a statue, it's just a picture of you posing on some rocks!" "Well, there should be one, anyway!" grumbles Claud.
Lake Tekapo is mind-numbingly beautiful - just look at the view they have from the window of the little church.
Distance today: 101 Km, cumulative: 1879 Km, remaining: 405 Km
All along the road from Twizel and through past Cromwell, cars are outnumbered by large capacity motorcycles. Many of the riders are early Dennis Hopper look-alikes. And no wonder, this is easy-rider country - vast skies, huge open country, crystal clear air with visibility forever to distant horizons. The sun beats down mercilessly. Cycling is OK, but you wouldn't want to be out here walking!
To be serious and honest for a second, coming down from Lindis Pass, through vast landscapes, I had goosebumps, a lump in my throat and tears in my eyes. You just don't see this sort of thing everyday and it has been the most amazing cycle ride yet on this trip. Wow!
Covered today: 149 Km, cumulative: 2028, remaining: 287
The other highlight was "Roaring Meg" the power station on the river - see photos. Of course, Nigel would already know to lookout for roaring Meg!
Distance today: 63 Km, cumulative: 2093 Km, remaining: 219 Km
We judder to a wobbly stop. Then, believe it or not, I look up and see Penny Sport Cycles' shop, right in front of us. Claud has broken down literally at the street junction in Christchurch which is the site of New Zealand's biggest bicycle shop! We have not actually passed a bicycle shop since we unpacked Claud in Whangerei two weeks ago. What kind of luck is that? I do not carry the large spanners needed to adjust the headset, so anywhere out in the country and this would have been a stopper, as Claud has suddenly become unrideable.
The mechanic in Penny's tightens Claud's headset - he now has his head screwed on properly and we are off again through pleasant Hagley Park and heading South down a boring stretch of Highway 1, reaching Ashburton at 7pm, our latest stopping time.
Another touring cyclist, Ray, arrives and we both jump across the barbed wire fence and the railway line, to Robbie's bistro, to have dinner and a few handles together, swapping cycling stories. Ray has a collossal load on his bike, maybe a hundred pounds. He even has a two-man tent and a folding solar panel! It all seems most odd, until he explains that he is from Calif-ornia - ahah, say no more! I show him my modest 28 pounds of equipment. "You only have one cycling shirt?!" he exclaims, "how do you manage?" "Well, I wash it each evening and it dries in about 30 mins, I explain. Ray shakes his head at this bewildering news, while anxiously fingering his portable satellite navigation console for comfort.
Ray tells me proudly that he averages ten hours cycling per day, and has once covered 100Km in a day, stopping at 10pm. He walks up nearly every hill.
No photos today, as the route is very flat and dull, except for the following one, of a very weird rainbow effect around the moon. People were standing outside their houses at 11pm, all gazing and gasping at this unique sight. Unfortunately, the picture does not capture the colours - you had to be there, I am afraid.
Distance today: 153 Km, cumulative: 1678 Km, remaining: 603 Km
OK, I had better explain and recap last night.....
You see, the Chinese (or Korean?) manager of the Lazy Shag backpackers, who is a bit of a joker, put me in a shared room with three girls and two boys last night. This is despite there being many other "more mature" guests. I ask if this is a good idea, but she replies, by way of explanation and reassurance: "You rook smirey person - all smirey people in room 3 - you be fine!".
So off I go to introduce myself to the two young girls who are already in occupation of room 3. "I am afraid you drew the short straw, girls, and have to share with the old guy!". "Oh, that's alright!", says the blonde one, as she exchanges a quick look with her companion, that seems to say "Did you remember to pack the pepper spray?" "Don't worry, just imagine that you are sharing a room with your dad!", I add, brightly. It doesn't seem to help. However, I find out that they and another girl are doing a gap year along more or less the same itinerary as the Smug Adventurers, so that breaks the ice and I then quickly repair to the Kaikoura Hotel, where I debate the merits of Dave Gilmour and Roger Waters (who played a storming concert last night in Christchurch, apparently), with a guy from British Columbia and then the merits of Liverpool FC with a fan from Melbourne, who is a BMW salesman on a sales junket in NZ; a reward for selling the fifth highest number of BMWs that year.
I have seen only one other touring cyclist on this trip - going the other way. However, I often have the eerie sensation that I am being shadowed!!
From Kaikoura, we are climbing yet again, up and into, then up and out of Greta Valley. These are some of the biggest climbs for a few days and the right knee is beginning to creak again. But the last 30 miles from Cheviot onto Waipara are mainly downhill and I glide into Waipara Sleepers, the backpackers hostel, at 4:30pm.
"Sleepers" is an unusual backpackers, where the facilities room and dorm rooms are in an old station house and old railway guards vans, respectively. These have been retreived, along with lots of memoribilia, from the old glory days of New Zealand steam railways. New Zealand now has a very minimal rail system.
But Waipara is otherwise another truckstop/bend in the road sort of place, so I wander around, take a photo of the backdrop of hills and get an early night.
Distance today: 126 Km, cumulative: 1525, remaining: 759
Not fantastic scenery today and rather grey and misty, but I covered 55 miles in 3 hours cycling, by quarter to 12:00. After a long stop in Hamilton, I then cover another 40 miles in three hours, reaching the small town of Putaruru. Check into a huge old rambling and characterful hotel, the Putaruru Hotel.
Distance today: 153Km, cumulative: 713 Km
Distance today: 91 Km, cumulative: 804 Km