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All Around The Country (2011)

a travel blog by shoshtrvls


A road trip around the country in July, 2011

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Eastward Ho!

Saint Louis, United States


Yes, I’m a bit behind in the blogging, and the downside of that is that it is difficult to remember the details. Not the big stuff, but the little stuff like … where the hell were we on Wednesday?

Ah yes, we started in Kansas City, MO. And we drove east, arriving in St. Louis just around 10:00 a.m. I don’t recall anything about the drive, except that I believe it was rather unimaginative – nothing particularly beautiful or ugly. Just road.

The plan was to drive by the Arch, snap a few photos, and continue on to Memphis in time for the 5 p.m. duck walk at the Peabody Hotel (where I had decided we would spend the night, after our less-than-stellar Holiday Inn experience). But that Arch is pretty alluring – close up and in person, it is pretty magnificent. Since we had made good time, so up we went. (Actually, first you have to go down below the Arch, and then you take a pod-like tram to the top). And I realized that St. Louis is one hell of a big city. Really big. Oh, and the Mississippi River is pretty ugly down here, as compared to up North.

After the Arch we walked along a small historic Riverfront area (in need of some life), ate lunch and got back on the road. But, eeek! Would we make it by 5 p.m.? It was looking iffy but I was determined to make a go of it.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Saint Louis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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A Little Night Music

Memphis, United States


We crossed into Arkansas – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. We crossed into Tennessee – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. Yes, we were going to make it, with 3 minutes to spare (seriously) when, disaster struck in the form of … a wrong turn. Yes, a single wrong turn got us to the Peabody at 5:10, minutes after the ducks had departed for the evening. Sigh … well, there was still tomorrow.

So, we checked in, went to the rooftop for a view of Memphis, and then I had my annual meat fix at the Rendez-Vous. Bar-be-que that was definitely worth it.

Then we headed to Beale Street. Everything I remembered and more – the more in this case being Bike Night, a Wednesday night tradition. Hundreds of bikers and bikes. Plus the usual streetside musicians, beer garden bands, and wandering crowds. And “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay” being played and sung at every single bar up and down the street. Really, Memphis didn’t turn out any other song? None?

Well, tomorrow includes a stop at Graceland, so we’ll see if there isn’t another tune or two around.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Memphis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Duck Walk

Memphis, United States


We did more today than I ever expected.

Up early, our goal was to see the National Civil Rights Museum first thing in the morning, then head back to the hotel for the 11:00 a.m. duck walk, and from there to Graceland. So, we took the Main Street trolley down to the Lorraine Motel and were there well in advance of the opening time. And yes, I felt very guilty that we rushed through the museum in an hour and a half – it was well worth a longer trip, but Ellery was determined to see the ducks and, well, I wasn’t going to let her down. But, there was a lot to be had in that hour and a half – I had forgotten how well-done the exhibits were, and there was a half-hour film about MLK, Jr.’s last days that was really very good. In the end, the only part of the museum that we gave short shrift to was the portion in the building where James Earl Ray took his shot, dealing with his capture and prosecution.

We did make it back to the Peabody in time for the duck walk, which Ellery dutifully captured on video. It was, indeed, quite fun and I’m glad we saw it.

Then it was back on the road, just a few Miles, to Graceland. Is it wrong that we spent more time at Graceland than at the Civil Rights Museum? Probably, but Graceland is so over-the-top, so kitchy fun, how can you not take the time to see all the gaudiness that was Elvis?



permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Memphis, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Down Under

Mammoth Cave, KY, United States


Up until this morning, we really had no plans for after Memphis, just the quickest route home. But then I noticed that Mammoth Cave in Kentucky was a possibility. The longest known cave in the world, it couldn’t be missed. So that’s where we headed, arriving at the delightfully run-down, old-fashioned Mammoth Cave Hotel within the National Park (this was our 11th National Park of the trip, in case you’re counting) well after dark, where we were greeted by a small snake at our front door. After shooing him away, we made it inside just in time to fall fast asleep.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
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More Caving

Mammoth Cave, KY, United States


Mammoth Cave National Park is, quite simply, gorgeous. It may actually be my favorite of all the parks we’ve seen; so lush and green and, even more importantly, so full of life. I don’t think I’ve heard as many birds, as many crickets, as many bugs anywhere else.

After a short hike around, we walked to the visitor’s Center shortly after it opened, and good thing we did as many of the tours were sold out well in advance, and those that hadn’t been were selling out fast. But, we were able to get tickets for the one we wanted, the two hour “Heritage Tour.”

Well, Mammoth Cave is spectacular, by far my favorite cave to date (although Ellery still prefers The Caves we saw in Belize). And the tour was great; the Ranger described in wonderful detail how people have been touring the cave, and writing their names on the walls and ceilings, since the early 1800’s. And the fact that it was cool in the cave – compared to the 100 degrees plus temperatures that have followed us throughout this trip – was an added bonus.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)
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Almost Heaven, Almost Home

Sutton, United States


Leaving Mammoth Cave, we started heading for home. But … wait … there’s more! What’s that sign ahead? Lincoln’s birthplace awaits!

So, a quick diversion there, and back on the road. And what a road! Through Versailles and Lexington, some of the most beautiful horse country I could have imagined, and then through the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, finally stopping for the night in a huge Days Motel on the top of a hill that appears to cater to the hundreds of people who come to this lake region for a weekend (or more) of recreation.

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Sutton, United States
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Home Sweet Home

Philadelphia, United States


There’s nothing more to say. No stops today – we were homeward bound and nothing was stopping us.

Final Stats: 19 Days, 19 States, 12 National Parks, 3 World Heritage Sites, 2 Cars, 5,982 Miles!

permalink written by  shoshtrvls on July 30, 2011 from Philadelphia, United States
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Welcome to my travels. On this site you'll find recent trips and some very old trips. You'll note that for some trips I wrote very detailed reports (at least in the beginning), for others, I didn't even take notes of where I was on what dates. Nevertheless, I've done my best to document, to...

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