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Two month of Japan

a travel blog by JuergenS

Hello to all of you!

I am going to travel through Japan for two months, starting July 10, and hope to create a blog that can represent my experiences, at least at a basic level. I plan to do this quite like a diary.

Having long since honed a desire for seeing the world, especially Japan, and being in the lucky position of having time and money align now, I am quite excited to set off!

One crucial part of this journey will be the language, and it will be interesting to see how far my Japanese will get me.
Oh, and don't forget the Japanese cuisine!
view all 931 photos for this trip

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Culinary: Matsuri Stalls

Kyoto, Japan

In the aftermath of the Gion Matsuri I would like to speak about the stalls there. Lots of different food is sold at every matsuri, some of which became the trademark of these summer festivals. There are also other stalls around, like I mentioned in my post about the Gion Matsuri, so I will focus on the culinary part here.


BBQ

BBQ
Skewered meat from the grill, either with BBQ-sauce or with dry rub. Do I have to say more?

===================


Takoyaki

Takoyaki
Fried octopus balls (eating some while I write this). The batter is filled in a special fryer, basically a skillet with lots of cavitieis), spices and a piece of octopus added and the whole thing gets turned over while baking/frying to archive a ball form. Really good, those things. Served with various toppings and normally sold in sets of six or eight.

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Taiyaki

Taiyaki
Not really a matsuri food, but there was a stand at the Gion Matsuri. It's a sweet cake-like thing in the form of a fish and filled either with cream or anko (sweet bean paste). Again a special fryer, this time basically a waffle maker, is used to get the batter in shape.

===================


Fruits

Fruits
Great to cool down a bit, fruit skewers are readily available.

===================


Ikayaki

Ikayaki
Grilled squid. Basically the same as BBQ, just substitute the meat with a squid (cross cut for better grilling).

===================


Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki
This specialty of the Kansai region is often described as a savory pancake. A bit of batter is put on the hot plate and formed to thin, round layer, on which lots of cabbage, grilled seafood and basically whatever you want is put. The one I ate (not at a matsuri) had bacon on top. The whole thing is then flipped over and when the cabbage is soft and done, placed on a layer of egg (yes, scrambled and grilled in the form of a thin layer). Flip again, add special okonomiyaki-sauce and spices and you are done. Delicious and really filling.

===================


Yakisoba

Yakisoba
Grilled noodles with cabbage and meat. A typical food in japan, easy to make and delicious.

===================


Candy fruits

Candy fruits
Those are really sweet, had trouble to finish mine. They take the fruits (the classic is an apple, slightly boiled) and dip it in liquid sugar (or whatever lollipops are made from). Various fruits available.

===================


Kakikoori

Kakikoori
Shaved ice. You can choose your flavor and it is added in the form of syrup/juice poured on top. Cool and sweet.

===================


Burger

Burger
Yes, they are here to, and they are big!

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Corn-on-the-cob

Corn-on-the-cob
A classic for BBQ.

===================


Frankfurts

Sausages
Called Frankfurts, don't look like the ones I know.

===================


Cucumber-on-a-stick

Cucumber-on-a-stick
Again, for cooling down.

===================


Karaage Chicken

Karaage Chicken
Fried chicken pieces with various flavors (chili, garlic, soy sauce, salty, ...). You buy a cup (3 sizes) and fill it with whatever types you want.

===================


Crepés

Crepés
They are a hit in Japan and really good. Quick definition: A thin pancake, filled with cream, fruit, chocolate etc. and rolled up into a cone.

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Noodle dish

Others
There are of course others as well and they differ from region to region. I don't even know exactly what kind of noodle-dish it is, I took a picture of here.

===================

And a note for the beer-drinkers: There are the constant shouts of "Nama Biru!" at every corner, praising their beer and tempting you to buy.
The interesting thing is, the price rises with reduced distance to the main part of the matsuri. When I started at the Yakata shrine, a fair distance from the boiling center, the beer at the Convenience Store is about 230yen a can. Once you enter the area of the matsuri you can buy it in cans of in cups for 300yen, if you go near it its 400yen and when you are right in the middle of the whole thing, meaning where all the different stalls are, one can is 500yen.
Of course the prices of every stall are probably higher than elsewhere, but it's really obvious with the beer.
By the way, a beer stand I saw looked like this:


Beer guys

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 22, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
tagged Culinary
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Osaka

Osaka, Japan


Ferris wheel

Went to Osaka today, gotta see this city if you stay some time in the Kansai area.

Osaka aquarium

Started off at the Osaka Aquarium, right next to the Giant Ferris Wheel in the bay area.
Lots of sharks, mantas and yes, people (well, its Saturday and all). The star of the audience is the young dolphin, swimming along its mother.
Pictures:

Aquarium crowd

Manta greeting

Penguin

Dolphin with child

Manta

Spiral fish

Turtle posing

Crabs

Lots of restaurant and fast food stalls in the near market, also some well-known names.


Subway

KFC

What I ultimately found is this:


Bukkake, in MY food?

No further comment, did feel a bit weird eating there though.

A comedian did a show for the kids right when I left, he was not bad!

Went to the city center then, wandered about America Mura for a while.

Interesting streetlights around Osaka.

There are lots of shopping arcades, pretty much looking like that:


Shopping arcade

Found out that I suck at crane games.
Also, there is an entire arcade for cooking utensils, restaurant needs and pretty much anything to do with the preparation, consumption and selling of food.
A whole shop dedicated to the plastic food seen in shop windows (pretty handy when you can't read the menu). None of the stuff you see in the following pictures is actually edible.

Fake food

Fake food

The Tenjin Matsuri is held today and tomorrow in Osaka, one of the three biggest festivals in Japan. Took a quick stroll around, lots of stalls again and some new stuff I didn't see at the Gion Matsuri.
Pictures:


Yukatas - Asorted colors

Yukatas everywhere

Tenjin Matsuri

Interesting fashion choice

Tenjin Matsuri - Boat

Got on my way back to Kyoto and did some planning for my last week there.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS



permalink written by  JuergenS on July 24, 2010 from Osaka, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Culinary: Local Specialties - Part 1

Kyoto, Japan

I would like to show you some of the local food I had the pleasure to try in this post, here we go:


Tonkatsu set

Tonkatsu
Basically fried pork chop/loin. An easy and popular dish in Japan, it probably has as many variations as Wiener Schnitzel has in Austria. The one in the picture was more on the side of a Cordon Bleu, filled with summer veggies. Classical sides are rice and shredded cabbage. The place I visited had a piece of tofu, some pickles, rice, tea, cabbage and miso soup. The last four were all-you-can eat, meaning they would be refilled as often as you wanted. Whole thing cost about 9eur.

===================


Kyoto's Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki - Kyoto-style
I talked about those already in my post about Matsuri Stalls, just wanted you to see another picture. Also, there is of course a multitude of ways to make these things, with thick dough or just a thin crust, with noodles or w/o, with seafood or meat. Depends on the place you eat at, there is no definite style. The one in the picture actually had a main body of egg with cabbage, topped with bits of meat and Bonito flakes and a side of Yakisoba.

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Hiroshima's Okonomiyaki

Okonomiyaki - Hiroshima-style
In Hiroshima they put noodles (soba, udon) in their Okonomiyaki, a great fit, if you ask me.

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Noodle bowl

Ramen (and other noodle bowls)
Inexpensive, filling and really good, Ramen are a Japanese fast food almost everybody loves. You can choose your toppings and the type of soup base you want (salt, soy sauce and miso usually) and dig in. There are other dishes like Ramen as well, differing in type of noodles or way of serving.Tthe picture above actually does not show Ramen, as the noodles are different.

===================


Katsudon

Katsudon
Breaded fried pork chop over rice, served with a special sauce and egg. A classic, really, and always good. It also became famous because in many detective stories a suspect would be tempted to confess using a Katsudon, after many hours of interrogation without food or sleep.

===================


Fukui's Sauce Katsudon

Sauce Katsudon
A specialty of Fukui, differing from normal Katsudon through the difference in meat (its port alright, but a different part), the different breading and the different sauce used. The sauce is served in a separate dish, the customer can adjust the intensity of the flavor to his liking.

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Tempuradon

Tempuradon
Fried shrimp (or other seafood) over rice. A bit dry, but good nevertheless.

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Hamburg steak

Hamburg steak
A burger patty with sauce, served with or without fried egg and with a side of rice. Another classic in Japanese households and inspired by the American burger.

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Hiroshima's Oysters

Oysters - Hiroshima-style
Local oysters from Hiroshima, grilled right in front of you.

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Summer curry

Curry
The Japanese love curry, its a common dish in pretty much every household. Without giving favor to any kind one can safely say that a Japanese curry exists, different but not inferior to its ancestor from India. Curry is served pretty much everywhere and there are several food chains offering only different curry dishes. And there are a lot, really. The one in the pictures had summer vegetables and chicken in it.

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Giant Apple

Giant fruit and veggies
Found those apples in the picture at a market and yeah, they are big. Almost to big to finish one in one go. Also, there are many other fruits and vegetables that are way larger than those I am used to and readily available in every super market.

===================

I will do a post for food on the go in the future, featuring Convenience Store lunches and Ekiben.
Oh, and yeah, I do get weird looks sometimes when I take pictures of the things I am eating.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 25, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
tagged Culinary
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Ise

Ise, Japan


Inner shrine - Entrance

Visited Ise today, the site of probably the most sacred Shinto shrine. There are actually two parts of this shrine, the Outer Shrine, near the station, and the Inner Shrine, a few km away.
The Inner Shrine is dedicated to (and enshrining) Amaterasu-no-omikami, the goddess of light in Shinto belief, as well as one of the imperial regalia, the sacred mirror (the other two being the sacred sword and the sacred beads --> Okami anyone?). There actually is a bit of a story behind that goddess and the mirror. Amaterasu once hid herself in a cave for the misbehaving of her brother, Susanoo, thus plunging the world in darkness. The other gods then used a mirror to reflect her own light (goddess of light --> sun) to herself and proclaimed that a new sun appeared and everything was fine. Raged the goddess stormed out of the cave and daylight thus returned to the lands.

The main halls/buildings of the two shrines are hidden from view behind fences, and only members of the imperial family and select priests are allowed near them. Of course, pictures are prohibited there as well. Jumping the fence is not a good idea either, as guards are nearby and you are constantly watched by cameras not so cleverly disguised as trees. That being said, many of the sub-buildings are exact replicas of the main one, so you can get a pretty good feeling what is looks like anyway.

I started off at the Outer Shrine, located in a lush forest. Pictures:


Outer shrine - Sub-building

Outer shrine - Pond

Outer shrine - Main building

Outer shrine - Entrance

A nice walk along the premises later I was off to the Inner Shrine.

The area is bigger, the garden/park really impressive, the trees there are massive (and I mean, really, really massive), there are more people and larger buildings than in the Outer Shrine. You approach through two big Toriis on either side of a bridge over a clear river and walk either through the park with lots of open space and sun or the cool and beautiful forest.
Pictures:


Inner shrine - Gate

View from the bridge

Inner shrine - Park

Inner shrine

Bridge construction

Inner shrine - Sub-building

Inner shrine - Main building

Inner shrine

Inner shrine pond

Koi

Inner shrine - Park

Massive tree

Massive tree

Narnia?

There is a reason this shrine is also called the most impressive shrine of Japan, even though you can't see the main building (well, besides the roof). There is only one competing shrine, the Tosho-gu in Nikko, which is as gaudy as Ise-jinja is austere.

Oh, and due to Shinto tradition, the shrine is completely rebuilt every 20 years. For this, an empty lot is always kept next to the current one. The timber of the old one is then used for the Torii of the new one and sent to shrines all over Japan for repairs. This shrine has seen over 60 rebuilds by now! 2013 will be the next cycle take place.

The traveling time is really long from Kyoto, but I liked my visit here.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 26, 2010 from Ise, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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About temples, shrines, pavilions and castles

Kyoto, Japan


Torii@Ninna-ji

I have been going around quite a lot now, visiting temples, shrines, pavilions and castles and I have to say the clear winners are the shrines for me.
True, temples often have astonishing and really massive gates and halls and beautiful screen paintings and of course exploring a castle has its own thrill, but in the end I am just more interested in finding a small shrine somewhere amidst lots of greenery, moss growing everywhere and few to no other visitors around. It is there that I can feel really at peace and like I can esteem the beauty surrounding me. The same with gardens, the great and well visited Heian shrine itself was less interesting for me than the gardens surrounding it.
Seems like I am more of a nature-type than expected.

That is of course only my personal view and temple-hopping is fine as well, I just want everyone to consider visiting some off-the-beaten-path shrines if the chance arises.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 26, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Inari

Inari, Japan


Torii of Inari

Went to Inari today, to visit the Fushimi-Inari Taisha, the famous shrine trademarked by its hundreds of Torii, lined up along the path.
Just a short distance from the Inari station the shrine area begins and it looks just like other shrines at first. This changes, however, once you start you tour around the mountain. Literally hundreds of Torii are lined up, marking the path you take.

More torii

The beginning is easy enough and you soon reach another shrine site:

Light at the end of the tunnel

Inari map

These stones (the ones on the lanterns) where there as well. They are called the Heavy-light stones and after you make you wish you lift them. If they are light the wish will be granted. They are of medium weight, a divine shrug, I guess.
And off you go, following the path marked in the map above (but really, just follow the red gates). As you goal is on top of a mountain, the usual sight will be something like this:

And torii again

Oh and there are lots of steps, believe me.
From time to time you come across a rest place or a spiritual site with lots of Toriis and statues.
Pictures:

Lots of torii and statues

Climbing up

Torii in the forest

Small torii on sale

Inari

Inari

Remains of torii

Well, water's hard to come by on top of a mountain...

The drink above (water) is usually 110yen.

There are also dozens of fox statues along the way:


Fox statue

Fox with questionable fashion sense

Halfway through:


Reached the top


And down we go again

Outlook from halfway up

Its only a 4-5km walk/hike, but all those stairs kinda get to you after a while.

Went down a different way than I walked up, naturally, and came by an area with lots of small house-shrines and statues.

Oh, and it seems that the typical Japanese pond is the home to lots of koi, some ducks and lots of turtles.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 27, 2010 from Inari, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Kyoto - Cleanup

Kyoto, Japan

Well, as it is my last week in Kyoto for a while, I still had some things I wanted to do, some restaurants I wanted to try and some places I wanted to visit.
Especially the places the bus I take every day drives by and I had not seen were on my list.
Here a short description (and picture dump) of the things I did when I was not away from Kyoto.


Kitano Tenman-gu market

Kitano-Tenmangu: A prominent shrine and on every 25th of the month venue for an enormous market held by the locals. You can buy all the typical flea-market things (Japanese style of course), lots of clothes and there are the food stalls I know from the matsuris as well. Good times.
Of course the shrine does not stop operating because of this.

Kitano Tenman-gu market- Armor and weapons

Kitano Tenman-gu market- Games

Kitano Tenman-gu

Kitano Tenman-gu

Kitano Tenman-gu - Umeboshi

Kitano Tenman-gu

Kitano Tenman-gu

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Kamigamo shrine
Just one bus stop north of Yurakuso (meaning: walking distance from where I stay), is the Kamigamo shrine, one of the oldest shrines around. It's dedicated to Raijin, the god of thunder. The two cones represent mountains for the gods to decent upon.


Kamigamo - Great Torii

Kamigamo - Mountains

Kamigamo park

Kamigamo - Construction

Located in an open park with lots of space and open to the public as an relaxation area it is a really nice place. Some kind of event seemed to be about to begin that evening as there were decorations everywhere, no idea what it was about.

Kamigamo - Foxes

Kamigamo - Statues

Kamigamo - Dragon

Kamigamo deko - Water children?

Kamigamo deko

I visited here on the same day as I visited Inari, so the following sight kinda seemed familiar:


Kamigamo - Torii

Kamigamo is on the foot of a forest on a mountain/hill and there are supposedly monkeys around.

==========

Some other pictues I took while going around in Kyoto. Visited some temples/shrines and the park surrounding the Kyoto Imperial Palace:


Seimei shrine

Seimei shrine

Seimei shrine - Golden peach

Pagoda

Horikawa - Strolling and relaxation area


Imperial Palace Garden

Imperial Palace Park

Imperial Palace Map

Old Government Building

Temple

That's it for Kyoto for now, tomorrow I move to Tokyo.
Moving and Kyoto-flashback posts tomorrow.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 28, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Moving - Tokyo

Tokyo, Japan


Quiet neighborhood

Moved to Tokyo today, of course it had to be the only rain day of the week so far. Well, I am just glad that it was dry for my last few days in Kyoto, so it's fine.
Due to me doing the checking-out-process yesterday already, I arrived waaaay before the specified time at the Tama Plaza station, meaning the landlord was not yet in. Took a cab to the Guest House, cost me 710yen.
Tama Plaza itself is a nice little town in Yokohama which is incredibly close to Shibuya and thus Tokyo (20min train ride). Its a quiet neighborhood with a little nightlife around the station area and the usual shops. I will do further posts as if I was staying in Tokyo for reasons of simplicity.


Chanel House - Front (nightview)

Took some time to sort things out and get to the room but I finally had the time to unpack. This moving was probably the hardest of my journey in terms of getting everything in the trunk, as I carried various things I will not take back home, but still need here with me. A really tight fit. Will sort things out before leaving the Chanel House for one last week in Kyoto with my girlfriend at the end of August.
For now, I settled in and took a stroll around the area to the station (about a 10min walk I guess, didn't take the exact time).

There is an Tokyu department store around, have yet to find a decent nearby conbini, however.

Some pictures:


The corridor (floor 1)

My new room - Front

My new room - Fridge and table

My new room - Side

My new room - Back

My new room - Bedding

I really grew to love the Yurakuso in Kyoto, the room was small but cozy and ideal for my purposes. The Chanel House is something completely different, the room being bigger (well, two people will stay there eventually), the floor w/o tatami-mats, the building big and lots of non-Japanese residents. Talked with my room-neighbor Gary for a while and got some info.
Will probably get used to here as well, but i would have loved to stay in Kyoto for a while longer.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 29, 2010 from Tokyo, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Shibuya and Akihabara

Tokyo, Japan


Shibuya

After moving to Tama Plaza I took some days to settle in and get some orientation. As I noted before, Shibuya is the station on the Yamanote Line that's nearest to me, so I decided to explore the area first.

Well, that was the original plan, until I entered the station: Seemingly an accident of some sort occurred and the trains didn't move for another hour. Used the time to walk through the station area. Multiple storeys, lotsa shops and some eateries.

After that I got to Shibuya, the view from the station area down to the Shibuya crossing is something like that:


Shibuya crossing

This crossing is famous for its never-ending masses of people walking in all of its five directions.


Shibuya station

After leaving the station through the Hachiko exit I took a look at Hachiko himself (a famous extremly faithful dog who waited here for his owner who had already passed away, google or wikipedia for further info) and the area surrounding him.

Found this train car put there as a memorial of the "old" Shibuya and its way to its modern status. Some pictures, some info, some seats to rest and an AC.

Some other pictures of the area:


Shibuya

Shibuya

Shibuya 109

Disney store

Oh, and I found these guys, handing out free grapefruit drinks to everyone passing. Not bad.

Left Shibuya of the day.

=======

Another thing I noticed is the fact that there are Pokémon stations at every station around and lots of kids dragging their parents towards them. Seems like you can collect stamps of different Pokémon and exchange them for prizes.

=======

Akihabara was next and I did pretty much all of the standard Akihabara stuff in an afternoon.


Radio Kaikan

Radio Kaikan is located directly in front of the Electric Town exit of the station and offers everything to satisfy your otaku-needs, from manga to doujins to games to model guns to trading cards to character goods ... The list goes on.
Some pics:

Lifesize Rei in yukata

Manga

F*ck ad (yes, it's a magazine)

The last poster shows a book that is supposed to translate expressions of Marines and American slang into Japanese. Motto = "Cuss like a Marine". Kinda hard to pass by, maybe I will get a copy later.

This line marks the border between the normal Manga and the 18+ stuff. Lots of people on both sides.

Other buildings:


Akihabara

Akihabara

Maid café ad

Game store

Maid cafés: One part of the Akihabara-experience that is known all over the world are these cafés where all waitresses are cute girls in maid outfits and addressing you as "Goshujin-sama" (=Master) or "Ojou-sama" (=Lady or Mistress).
You can play games with them for discounts or prices and many have musical performances, cute rituals and dancing. The one I went to had *g*
Inside you have to follow some rules like don't ask the maids about personal things and don't take pictures inside (pictures of the food are allowed though).


Maids

Iced coffee@Maid café

Another maid

Other pictures:


Gashopons

Mouse pads

Cosplay in front of a sex shop

Way to save money...

The last one explains a way for women to get discounts at a seven storey sex shop (there are some of those around): Buy a costume or lingerie, let an employee take a picture of you and hang in inside the shop. 20% for a costume, 30% for lingerie.

That was a quite interesting experience, all things considered ^^

So long an stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on August 1, 2010 from Tokyo, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Hakone

Hakone, Japan


Owakudani

Visited Hakone today for a dayhike in its rich nature. There is a lot you can do around there without actually doing much more than strolling around, maybe I will do that later.

One point of interest, aside from the obvious hiking trails through forests and up mountains, is the pure variety of means of transport available. You start off "at home" by Shinkansen, reach Hakone Yumoto by local train, switch to the switchback train to Gora, take the cable car (funicular) up Soun-zan and either hike or change to the gondola from there. Also you can do boat-trips on the famous lake of the area or take buses around.

After reaching Gora I continued up to Soun-zan by mentioned funicular.

From there I started my hike up the Owakudani mountain, an 80min affair through a dense forest and of course uphill (it's a mountain climb after all). Pictures:


Warning sign

Hiking up

Hiking up

Hiking up

Hiking up

Hiking up

Hiking up

Gondola station

Reached the top

Reached the crossroads where you can either go further up to a different mountain top or walk another 15min to the gondola station and the tourist spot of Owakudani.

On this mountain a lot of volcanic gas is breaking through the surface or bubbling up from sulphurous ponds.


Owakudani

Owakudani

Owakudani

Owakudani

Owakudani

Owakudani

They sell Kurotamago (back eggs) here, eggs cooked in the "hot springs" --> their outer layer turns black. They became the trademark of the area and there are lots of souvenirs designed after them. Got a pack of them, aside from the color they are pretty normal, maybe a slightly different taste.


Kurotamago - Inside

Kurotamago kitty

The mass of people was kinda uncomfortable after the hike alone (only met a pair of hikers on their way down once) but it is a popular tourist spot after all.

Found another item that will stay in Japan when I return home by the way: My shoes, they suffered quite a bit already. Will fix them for my remaining time here and get rid of them in the end. But hey: More space for souvenirs!

After my visit of the ponds and the kinda apocalyptic volcano landscape I made my way back. The weather grew worse and colder (it was raining a bit on my way up and lots of fog mixed with the volcanic gasses, but inside the forest you really didn't feel it). Took the gondola back to Soun-zan and the funicular to Gora from there the switchback train to Hakone Yumoto.

There is an onsen called Kappa Yukuraku right next to the station: My last stop before returning to Tokyo. Hakone got a lot of onsen with all that volcanic activity going on, they even created some by using excess volcanic gas that would otherwise have posed a danger of explosions). Dipped for a while and relaxed and went back "home".

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on August 2, 2010 from Hakone, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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