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Heaven

a travel blog by roel krabbendam


Bicycle trip through the Netherlands with extended family. No hills! Limited distances! Reduced butt fatigue! Not half the adventure of Africa perhaps, but at least four times the calories. Don't call it Holland, call it Heaven.

For dessert, a day in Reykjavik, Iceland watching the sun never set. Exquisite.
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Reunion

Doorn, Netherlands


It is the morning of our family reunion, a big barbeque out on the lawns of a formal mansion that my cousin Peter operates as a conference center and event locale. He is both exceedingly professional and impressively low-key, my cousin, and he has flawlessly arranged both our stay here in Holland as well as this party.

The kids have started building a primitive hut, and architectural services are called for. That’s my excuse anyway to go play with them. They need no help whatsoever of course, and I let them boss me around as we gather sticks and leaves, the hut taking shape rapidly.

The family arrives in threes, fours, and fives, aunts uncles cousins, in-laws and new wives and new kids and old kids and many married people with children who I only remember as kids: we are all recalibrating and taking stock, even of ourselves. I have never felt older. We have had these reunions whenever my family came back from “The States”, more than 40 years worth of visits, and as a child I assumed these parties were typical. The family to my mind was monolithic, my father’s side bound to my mother’s side doubly by the marriage of my mother’s sister and my father’s brother. Only slowly have I come to understand and appreciate some of the fissures and alliances that define this family, the details that make this family so interesting and also so important to me. Those 40 years of reunions I now know only happened when we came to visit, but I also know for certain that they were not just for us.


It is all over too quickly. My sister’s family needs to pack and in the morning is gone, evil Tommy of wrong directions fame headed to China for a month. A day later I drive my brother’s family to Brussels to catch their flight back to Tucson, and then we say our good-byes to an aunt seen rarely since her divorce from my uncle, headed for a hospice for the last weeks of her life. We will not see her again. Once it was weddings that precipitated our visits, but funerals are frankly more common of late.

I spend a day with Peter, walking through the estate he operates and discussing his expansion plans. We visit similar estates in the area, all of whom sadly built expansions quite badly, new construction destroying any of the original elegance. He will not make the same mistakes. Peter drives us to the airport, and we are off to Iceland.


permalink written by  roel krabbendam on June 24, 2007 from Doorn, Netherlands
from the travel blog: Heaven
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sick...walk...sleep

Amsterdam, Netherlands


Mia is sick, and from the States we hear that they all caught something here as well. My cousin Peter and my aunt Nell drive us to the airport, we get through the formalities, we walk 37.85 kilometers to the gate (thank god for those moving walkways), and finally board the plane. Mia is asleep instantly.

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on June 24, 2007 from Amsterdam, Netherlands
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Restlessness

Reykjavik, Iceland


We zoom down over lava and lichen to Keflavik airport, pass through security (they’re still as young as before), change money (kroner, not euros), arrange a hotel and catch a bus for the 50 kilometer ride into Reykjavik. Stacks of rock beckon human-like as we pass, everywhere is lava rubble, and we see not a single tree until we approach the city. Hotel Snorri is ridiculously expensive and proves little more than a hostel, but it is clean and convenient, and Mia needs to lie down. We settle in, I get food at the 11/11 store, I put the girls to bed after dinner, and then restlessness sends me out the door to explore.

It is 9pm and feels like 5pm, the sun is still that high.

I walk down Snorrabraut and take a left down Laugavegur, the main shopping street in the city.

The street is crowded with young people, some couples arm in arm, some formally dressed groups. Laugavegur becomes Bankastraeti becomes Austurstraeti, and then I am in a more residential area before hitting the water.
I turn right to the harbor, following the sea wall finally to a series of huge storage tanks overlooking the sea.
It is past 11pm now, and the sun still shines brightly at the horizon.
A couple of guys are spraying graffiti on a wall, great loops of orange and green and black, but otherwise it is completely quiet. From far off downtown I hear traces of traffic, then some gulls fly by, then I hear the waves.
Light glints off the cathedral dominating Reykjavic, far off in the distance. I feel alive and tired both, glad to experience this unusual moment: the sun bouncing off the horizon at midnight. The quality of the light is unforgettable.
Downtown, restless teenagers squeal their tires, many cruise down the main street in an orderly procession, and there is plenty of life left to the evening. There is not a trace of litter anywhere however. I walk back to the hotel for a few hours rest.


permalink written by  roel krabbendam on June 24, 2007 from Reykjavik, Iceland
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Home

Boston, United States


Iceland

Greenland

Home

Sigh.

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on June 24, 2007 from Boston, United States
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7 Trips
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Here's a synopsis of my trips to date (click on the trip names to the right to get all the postings in order):

Harmattan: Planned as a bicycle trip through the Sahara Desert, from Tunis, Tunisia to Cotonou, Benin, things didn't work out quite as expected.

Himalayas: No trip at all, just...

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