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Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom

a travel blog by katja-horsch


my first little holiday in Cambodia
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Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


My visit to Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom 15. -21.06.2009

After I arrived in ST from PP on Sunday, my landlady came and brought me lunch. Khmei food. That made me really happy. Although we can’t understand each other, she makes me feel welcome.
In the evening, we were saying farewell to Joelle in her house in ST. It was a great party with lots of lively Khmei people there. We even tried to dance like them, until the power was cut off and we had to light candles to carry on partying without music.
Even my little Channa was tipsy, because he brought Rice wine from Laos and I forced him to drink it with me. Then a thunderstorm came and we went home. Wet.

On Monday morning, I started packing and went again to the RTC to get some documents about previous preceptor supervision in Rat. After that I decided, to carry on and cycle to the “Mekong blue”, one kilometre away from the RTC, were they grow the precious silk from silkworms.
There I met a guy named Makara, and he gave me the full tour.
It’s a really big complex, and they have everything you need to produce breathtaking silk material. When I saw the silkworms, I had to think of my sweet niece Tilda, who got silkworms from her father ones and she always wanted to give them more then four leaves per day. Wonder what happened to them, can you tell me John?
I’ll definitely be back there. They even have a kindergarten for the children of the women who work there. It is a lovely place. At the end I bought a little purse made of silk.


Then I waited for the car, Hor told me that we’ll travel with Sytills car. He is the regional chief nurse (RCN), the one were my sunglasses got stolen from his desk.

When they arrived at 2:30, there was also Tiri in the car, Hor’s wife. I was really happy. She is so lovely. I was starting to joke that in England they recommended to take a sports bra to Cambodia because of bumpy roads. At the beginning it was ok, although only sand road. But then, it just got worse and worse. We probably drove 20 km/h ( our neighbours in England would say 20 is plenty) for an hour or so and then the rain started and we slowed down even more. But finally we arrived in Ratanakiri and were looking for a place to stay. VSO pays $6 per night, so Sytill and me were staying in a guesthouse and Hor and Tiri stayed at Hor’s brother, who lives here with his family.

In the evening, we were invited to his brother’s house and had traditional Khmei dinner together. It was great. Everybody sits on the floor and we had like a hot stove. So on there we put vegetable and beef meat. With it chicken soup and rice. Really delicious. And the relatives were so friendly.

The next day, Sytill and me met downstairs and then we drove to a restaurant to have breakfast with Hor and Narem, who is a clinical Instructor from ST RTC and also part of the preceptor supervision visit in the Referral hospital. I had baguette and eggs. Was really good and a change to the usual breakfast noodle soup. Then we headed to the hospital. There, we first met the director and exchanged polite words.
Then we met the first preceptor, based on a paediatric ward. The task was to facilitate a certain skill, she choose measuring temperature, based on the nursing curriculum.
And that the student learns from it of course.

So we observed and then gave constructive feedback afterwards. Altogether we saw 2 preceptors that morning and it was fun.
The patients on the other hand really poorly. Also the whole hospital setting and surroundings are so middle aged.
I had the whole time a big blob in my throat when patients and relatives looked at me with sad eyes, like they were saying: please help! Fortunately I have the feeling that if I tried to engage with them and gave them a smile, they smiled back and it felt slightly better.

When Sytill and me went back for lunch, to the same restaurant we had breakfast, I seriously said to him that I want to work one day at the weekend in the hospital in ST, just to be there for patients who have nobody for example who comes and visits them.
I don’t know why he doesn’t like the idea. It’s like talking against something when I start it. Like he doesn’t want to hear it.
We had fish and chicken soup and then I had a sleep for one hour. Afterwards I felt really refreshed and ready for more action. So we went back into the hospital and saw 2 more preceptors.
Afterwards, Sytill said that they did generally better then he thought they were doing. That surprised me. I thought it was the other way around. Well, I thought I’ll give each of them individual points they can work on in future.

I was telling Hor and Sytill about the lake and that I really wanted to go swimming there. So in the afternoon, we decided to do so and we headed back to the hotel, got the swim costumes, towels and some drinks and went to the lake.

It was really beautiful. Because it was a cold and cloudy day, the water colour wasn’t nice. Apparently it is crystal blue usually, but never mind. The water was lush.
Sytill was asking if I wanted to go over there to change dresses, and I didn’t quite understand what he meant, so I said yes, because I thought he meant something like a place to change into your swim suit. When we arrived, there was a house and Hor was talking something about “looking like the Ethnics”. We went into that house and Tiri started to undress. I thought I can change now, but then a woman appeared and wrapped a coloured piece of cloth around me and then I started to understand.


It was so much fun. You can see it at those silly pictures.

And then finally we went swimming in the beautiful scenery of the volcanic lake.
The rain started ever so slightly to drizzle and Hor and me did those games, who can hold the breath under water longest and diving farest and so on. With Sytill I jumped into the water, one after the other, and then we drank Angor beer with straws. It was an unforgettable moment and how I wished, that you could have been there as well.
When the rain became stronger and a thunderstorm was about to arrive, we went home to have dinner and guess where, the restaurant, where I had also breakfast and lunch. Hor told me that Sytill always goes there when he is in Rat., because he thinks, food there is the best. And I don’t disagree.

Sytill ordered even wine. He is a dodgy man, somehow very difficult to read. I still don’t feel that the ice between us has broken, although we did all those childish things today. Funny p.

We actually wanted to top the evening by going to a karaoke bar, but Tiri had a bad headache so we went back to the hotel. Hope she’ll feel better tomorrow.

On Wednesday, we had breakfast, then 2 more supervisions in the hospital. The plan was, that the others wanted to go home in the afternoon and I wanted to stay until Sunday.
But because it was raining more or less all the time and I did the lake and also the other volunteer from Rat. didn’t have time to see me, I decided to go back home with them. I would have felt left alone, because I had so much fun with Hor and Tiri and Sytill.

On the way back in the afternoon, we visited a waterfall. We passed a bamboo-clad valley and went then to the Ka Chhang falls, just 10m high,

with a pool for taking a dip.
We didn’t have much time and the water looked very brown, so that was fine with me. Then we sledded back to Stung Treng, because it was raining and the roads made of red sand.

Then I decided to go and see my friend Eric, who likes to be called by his african name: Otieno, in Kampong Thom whom I met first when I arrived in PP. KT used to be known as “place of the big snake”, apparently because the locals used to take offerings to a large snake which lived in a cave on the river, though this may be yet another Cambodian myth as no one now has a clue where the cave is. That’s what my book says.
So I had a few days to see another province. It lies in the heart of Cambodia actually.

The bus ride took around 8 hours and when I arrived on Thursday afternoon, we had some of the famous Stung Treng Coffee ( it tastes a little bit of chocolate and every volunteer in ST is crazy about it) and cake, together with his elderly landlady, he lives with. Oti also has a big house like me, with guestroom and veranda. But he hasn’t got the view onto the river.
He works for VSO but with another NGO called ‘Mlup Baitong’. He works in Livelihood sector, has to do with foresting and farming. I admire his braveness to be black and so confident. Because also for Cambodians it is strange to see somebody so black. And also to see somebody so white. And when we walked together, they were staring and laughing at us.
Otieno is lovely. Although he has three sons already at home he kind of adopted a Cambodian girl and supports her when he can. He also gives a contribution to a very poor family near to his house. And he is still able to save up some money each month to support his family at home. He has a very big heart.
On Friday, we went to see “Sambor Prei Kuk” one of the major temple sites. It is the site of a Chenla-era capital that once boasted hundreds of temples, although many to them have now been lost, perhaps smothered by the encroaching forest. Several temple groups have been cleared, and particularly fine brick carvings and decorated sandstone lintels and columns can be seen.

The history of those temples goes back to the late sixth century,
when Cambodia consisted of numerous small states.
The temple divides into three main sections and we got lost in that big area.
It was so hot that I got really bad sunburns on my knees from the ride and on my neck. Of course I forgot my sun cream.
In the evening, I received my first motorbike lessons. It was great. Never did it before, so after he explained everything to me, I could imagine what to do and with his instructions, I suddenly rode the bike. It was a great feeling, until it started to rain and I slipped on something on the road while taking the corner and we fell over into the dirt. Really embarrassing it was, because it happened on a little market place. I only got a few scratches and blue stains, Oti was fine fortunately, and the bike too. Then I was scared to do it again, but I was animated to carry on. When I tried the next day, it felt much better already, more confident.

On Saturday we went swimming in a little pool nearby his house which I enjoyed very much. Then we visited another pagoda
and had dinner together. I went early to bed in preparation of the long early journey back to Stung Treng the next day.

So I had to take the taxi first to Kampong Cham. In the Taxi we were 7 people. Me and three others in the back, one of the women was very pregnant and 3 in the front. That means 2 on the passenger’s seat, squeezed together for 2 and a half hours. I missed the first bus going to Stung Treng so I had to wait for another 2 hours in KC.


The bus was really full and the aircon didn’t work, so it felt like being in a sauna. Each time the driver used the brakes I could smell burned rubber. Next to me was a woman who started talking to me. Usually Cambodians are very shy but also very curious. So she asked my name. Then my age and then if I was married yet. When I denied she couldn’t understand it and repeated that she wished for me to get married as soon as possible. Then she tried to recommend her brother to me and her friend. Well, what could I say. I tried to be very polite and declined. Then she took my hand and asked me if it was my real skin colour. I said yes and she was surprised, because she thought I would use whitening cream like all Cambodian women use to look more beautiful. It was really funny.

The bus broke down of course and I thought from hearing the crackling engine, that was it. The engine is stuck and we can’t carry on. But the amazing thing is that the bus driver again was able to fix it. No idea how. So after 30 minutes, everybody could come in again and off we went.

It was starting to get dark when I arrived and a thunderstorm was coming up. I tried to find a moto driver to bring me home because the rain started already.

But no one was in sight. Suddenly a moto stopped next to me and a girl asked me if she could give me a lift. That was so sweet. She knows me from the RTC, she is a student there. So she brought me home before the thunderstorm got worse. And that is what I really appreciate and makes me be comfortable and feeling home.

Also when I arrived I had a good feeling of being back in my house. It feels familiar and save. And after a quick catch up with Delia and Helen on the phone, I realized that I’m having a great time here so far and that I’m really lucky to have had my placement offer in Cambodia.
It is a great start for volunteering and living and working in a developing country.

Now, I just want to ask or remember, that if you want to do something good, you could do some fundraising anytime. For example at work, if you ask colleagues to donate even only £ 1 or Euro 1 each and collect it and send it to me, it will make a difference. Please consider it. When I come next year for a visit, I’ll bother you with that. In the JR, girls, maybe you want to put your mark onto the RTC by donating for some water filters for example or maybe even we could improve poorly conditions of student nurses by buying a toilet for them or materials/ equipment for teaching. If you have some money, maybe even some watches for nurses would be a great help. Some students are so poor, they can’t even afford to buy a watch.
I am here, so it won’t get lost. Please contact me for your positive answer.




permalink written by  katja-horsch on June 22, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom
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