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06.-23.07.09

a travel blog by katja-horsch


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06.-23.07.09

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


7th of July
I think I have my first drop of emotions and self-belief. Probably triggered by having a cold and feeling ill with it and because my proposal was turned down.
Also the anticipated supervision visits in Kratie and Chhlong are not happening this month. That means going to the RTC every day and sit on the desk in front of my laptop and trying to work. But what? Is at the moment my biggest problem… I have the feeling nothing happens and they can well do without me here. So it makes me think of coming home. But not in a serious way of course. So don’t worry, you’ll still have a rest from me for the next months.

Today I got Delia’s motorbike. She wants it to be used because she’s going to Austria for two weeks. So I was cruising around with it and it’s so much fun! I love it so much. It also has the advantage of getting from A to B much quicker and arriving without being sweaty all over. Disadvantage of course no exercise and petrol costs.
So whoever comes and visits me, be prepared for being on the back of a moto!
I most likely have to give it back to Delia when she returns but once her placement finishes in December, I can probably have it.

On the 6th of July it was a sad day for Cambodia because the wife of somebody very important died. So all flags were only half up and everybody was in mourning.

On the 7th of July it was a happy day for Cambodia. It is a celebration day because of a temple in Preah Vehir, which lies close at the Thai border. This temple was finished building last year and it has something to do with the conflict Thailand-Cambodia.
So we had a van here at the RTC who blew up balloons. At 11 am everybody had to stand in front of the RTC, teachers and students and then we sang the national anthem. There were even cameras and people who took pictures. After the singing one was shouting: Preah Vehir! And everybody shouted with raised arms: Preah Vehir! Then clapping and giggling and then they released the balloons into the sky. It was quit nice. In Phnom Penh they have a big celebration with live concerts and so on for a few days.
Even one day later we have the telly on in our RTC office all day where we can see the concerts.

Daniel came also up to see all Health Volunteers in Stung Treng. He is the Senior Programme Manager from VSO Programme Office, based in Phnom Penh. It was very good to see him. I also invited him and Channa, Delia and Louisa for dinner into my house. I cooked Thai Curry. It was nice. That reminds me of mice. Catch regularly again. Anyway. To talk to Daniel was like a brainstorm which I definitely have to do more often. He is very good in what he’s doing I think and he knows a lot about development and budgets and all that. He gave me more good ideas to work on and encouraged me to pick up on old ones which I thought couldn’t be done anyway.

Hor has a bad time at the moment. First his uncle died last weekend, so he had to go to Phnom Penh. Then now his grandmother died and he’s going back to Phnom Penh. Those journeys are all long and exhausting and I feel sorry for his loss. He has applied for a better job in PP where his family and daughter are. It is also with VSO but he’d be in a better position and would earn more money. I hope he gets the job.
Then is the question what happens here in ST when he’s gone. Daniel asked me if his position could be covered by Channa, to use the money we could save eg. to build toilets. Initially I said that I can’t imagine Channa taking over Hor’s job. He is only 21 and just got promoted in his English school, where he teaches. He is a very hard worker, but it might be too much for him. Although I could do most of Hor’s work maybe, I am not familiar at all with all that finance business. But maybe I could learn from it. The project most likely finishes in 2 years and there won’t be more significant changes I think. And once the new volunteer arrives we might can share responsibilities. Her name is Caroline and she’ll arrive in October this year and will work with me taking over the role as Preceptor Advisor. I cover this role at the moment, together with the TDA role.
The reason of thinking so hard about it is, that we really need the money.

So because of Hor’s absence and Channa has some holiday, I am on my own for 3 days in the office, surrounded by all those men.

Another man came to visit Stung Treng for a 1 week workshop here. My good friend Eric Otieno.

With him I did a motorbike trip ( I drove 30 km) to a fresh water whole.
The name is Russey Khandal.
It was absolutely
indescribable beautiful and just bliss.
It has been re-discovered by Otienos Organisation Mlup Baitong and so he knew the way and the place.
The water apparently is so clear, that you can drink from it. I didn’t. But I lay in that nice cool water and enjoyed it so much.
Afterwards we got rained on of course and waited for the rain to stop in one of the huts there. We met 3 little girls and they had stickers and put them on my bag. In return, I gave them chewing gum.
They were so sweet. Apparently not related to each other.

It was also very handy to have Eric around. He repaired the water pipe at my house, talked to my landlady about my broken toilet seat and made her repair it because he can speak Khmer very well.

On Monday, the 13th of July, my little 9 day adventure started. I got up early at 3:30 to take a minivan to Kratie to have two days of supervision in the hospital there. It was a weird moment then, because the minivan was just about to start when a woman said, that she had an Insect in her ear and she couldn’t get it out. It must be normal here, nearly everybody in the van had then a try to take it out. One was holding a torch and another one had a toothpick or something and I couldn’t watch but they were fiddling with her ear about 10 minutes without success. A woman suddenly got some liquid out and persuaded the woman with the insect to put this liquid into her ear. Just then another man was at the ear and the woman was obviously in pain. Fortunately they decided to call a Doctor and we drove with the minivan full of people to that doctor, at 4 o’clock in the morning. After another 10 minutes she came out and the insect was gone. So we drove for 2 ½ hours to Kratie where I met Channa, the clinical Instructor and the Regional Chief Nurse, Sethyll. We had breakfast together and then went to the hospital.


After talking to the director, who wasn’t very interested at all, we went to the wards. All preceptors where not prepared and most of them didn’t actually know that we were coming. So it was more or less a disaster. Everybody was grumpy and I felt that it was pointless. We departed the next day after lunch.
I stayed with Emily in Kratie, another volunteer from VSO ( she is dutch) who is there now for nearly 2 years. She works as a Nurse Advisor in the hospital and things are going well for her. She even thinks of extending her stay. She is great fun and my age!

So on that Tuesday I had the afternoon off and decided, to see the dolphins, Kratie is so famous for. Emily organised her landladies daughter to come with me and drive me basically to the place with her moto, where the boats go out to see them. She was only 14 but so confident and sweet and we were both exited, when we started. Unfortunately, on the way there it started to rain. By the time we got to the boat, a heavy monsoon developed and no boat went of course. So we were standing in the cold rain and strong wind for about an hour and then decided to go back once the rain got less. I haven’t felt so cold for a long time. My toes and fingers felt stiff because I was so wet and cold. It was disappointing that I haven’t seen the dolphins but I will return one day and hopefully have more luck.

In the evening, we went to see Joe. Joe is the owner of a restaurant in Kratie and he is originally from Chicago, but now in Cambodia for over 11 years. He cooks brilliant food and usually drinks during the day. But he is a lovely guy. So we had great fun that night.

On Wednesday morning, we got picked up from the minivan with all the other Health volunteers from Stung Treng inside. We were on our way to Siem Riep to attend to the Health Sector Workshop. That is for all VSO Health volunteers from Cambodia. It was twice a year but now that there are financial crisis’s at VSO too, they reduce it to annual. It was organized by 3 other volunteers. Attended volunteers work as Dietician, Nurse Advisor, Hospital Management Advisor, Health Advisor, Behaviour and Communication Advisor, Midwife Advisor and me, the only TDA and PA.
We all stayed at Smilyes Guesthouse

and the workshop was in the Angkor Hospital for children. A great hospital. Better then any other I’ve seen so far. It is based on donations, so the Cambodian government hasn’t got anything to do with it. Children get free treatment and there are enough drugs and beds available. Per day, they see around 800 to 1000 children. Not all of them get admitted. They also have facilities of following the children up at home.
I felt great to give something for the first time, when I donated blood there. I will do that regularly from now on.
The two day workshop was ok. I didn’t get that much out of it and it was more fun then having serious health discussions or learning something from it. So that’s why I put myself forward in doing the next one. We’ll see…
It was great to see all the other volunteers and exchange information and see what they do. Due to my short stay so far, of course I didn’t have much to say about me, but I can see what is possible and what not.

Siem Riep is a great place.

It looks clean and there are even traffic lights for pedestrians. In the evening, it is not allowed anymore to drive around with the moto. It is a good tourist destination and next time when I have more time, I’ll go to Angkor Wat. Hopefully with one of you guys!
After the first day, we had a little programme where people did together a little bit of entertainment. We were at a nice restaurant but the prices of food started at 3 to 4 dollars. Usually I go for something that is around 1 to 2 dollars. So it was a great relief, when Susan said, that Daniel would pay for all of us a dish for 5 dollars. That was nice of him. So I had delicious Vietnamese fish with rice.
Entertainment wise I was hooked up with Susan and Ruth ( who was a guest) and Ruth just bought an umbrella the same day. Not knowing what to do, I thought this umbrella would be a nice limbo stick. So that’s what we did. Everybody who knows me knows that limbo and polonaise are one of my specialities. I think I did everybody’s back in, including mine. But it was great fun.


The last day in Siem Riep I had some time for myself and I was walking around in the early morning to find a bus station and a ticket. Even very early is just so much to see there. For example a shop where they sell things made from crocodile skin. I went in just to have a look and it was horrifying amazing.
Out of an impulsive! decision, I booked myself for an appointment at 10 am for a khmei massage. It wasn’t my intention to do it, but then I got weak by seeing the offer $4 for 1 hour massage and I thought I could try that out. Usually it is 6 to 10 $, so it was a good price. It was a big building and first of all a young girl came and washed my feet. That was a good idea because feet here are always dirty and dusty due to only wearing flip flops all day. Then we got onto the 3rd floor and she showed me a darkish room with two mattresses on the floor. At the end were clothes. She advised me to take my clothes off and put the others on. It was a very thin large white blouse and a very thin large black linen trouser. After I changed, she came in again and started sitting next to me, massaging my back. Suddenly she sat on me and massaged rather hard all of my back and shoulders. Then she massaged my legs for ages and made also different exercises with it, and then she did a foot massage. I was in heaven by then. But if that was not all, she then made me turn over and proceeded with my arms and hands and finished everything with a head massage. I was really happy that I gave it a go, because that was the best massage I ever had (sorry for all the other people who gave me once one, you were good too!).

On my way back to Stung Treng I popped into Otieno’s new house. He moved and I helped him a little bit tidying and stuff. He has more mice then I have. He also cut my hair and it looks great now. So I have like a bob now, well still half long.

So now I’m back in Stung Treng and it feels good to be back. Feels home.

22.07.09

After having had my first day back at work, I feel also good, although I didn’t want to come back first. But I had a successful meeting with the promoted Chief of Clinical Office Dr. Sovann and he gave me promising feedback and he also will work fast on my suggestions. So I have the feeling it’s rolling again.


23.07.09

I also have my first visitor coming! Hurray! Carmi was brave enough to book a flight from London Heathrow to Seoul and from Seoul to Phnom Penh. She’ll arrive on the 21st of December and will depart unfortunately again on the 2nd of January. But at least we’ll spend Christmas and New Year together. So much looking forward to that!
But still too little time. Whenever you want to come, try to plan at least 3 weeks. Because it is a struggle with the jetlag and a lot to take in once you arrive. So two weeks exhaustion and one week enjoying. But I can’t complain, I’ve got a visitor!!!


Still feeling very homesick. Although I am here now for nearly 3 month, it nearly made me cry when I found a pair of socks today I haven’t warn and I could smell on it the conditioner I used at home. It smelled of home.

I want to finish this rather long blog again with some gentle remainders. If you want to do a fundraise and don’t know for what, let me know. If you want to give a donation but don’t know for what, let me know. Even little amounts can help and you’ll see for what because I can document each step where the money is going to.

Also if you want to send something to me in particular, I need again Mosquito repellent and everything else you might think I need. I live with the minimum and am happy about everything now. Music, Books, Clothes, Stationary…
Thank you for following me up and thinking of me. Keep in touch! Katja



permalink written by  katja-horsch on July 23, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 06.-23.07.09
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