Evidently Chicken Street

Our passage into Hanoi from China was through a city called Nanning. 1.3 million population but very little to do. It was a really plesant city and if you enjoy lots of attention its great because of the 1.3 million people in the city about 20 of them are white so we got used to being stared at all the time. The giant Wal Mart there was about the only interesting part as it allowed use to get real cheese, bread and crisps for the first time since entering China (which we had a craving for).

Snacks in Nanning courtesy of Wal-Mart

Having suppressed our appetite for Western food and got our Vietnam vsia we booked on for an 8 hour coach trip to Hanoi. Changing coaches at Frendship pass which is the name for the boarder checkpoint we arrived without complication. Getting to the hostel was not a problem as the bus company laid on a taxi to the door.
We are staying in a section of Hanoi known as the Old Quarter. The street we are on is called 'Hang Ga' meaning Chicken street. Every street name in the Old Quarter indicates what is sold on it for example; if you want some baskets you go to Hang Bo (Basket street). This does hold true and the streets are filled with exactly what their names suggest.
The hustle and bustle we had experienced on Chinas roads pailed into insignificance in comparison to the Old Quarter. To give you and idea of the number of bikes, scooters and cars on the road here is our safety tips for the Old Quarter:

1) There's no such thing as a side of the road so expect traffic in both directions at once
2) Don't assume that because you are on the pavement that you don't need to look for motorbikes coming at you.
3) Red lights mean stop if you want to (seriously, it's not a joke)
4) Looking for the next gap in the traffic is pointless, just cross in the traffic
5) When crossing do not look at the on-coming vehicles, it will only scare you
6) Walk very slowly and let the traffic work its way round you
7) Always remember, don't ever stop in the road or you may die.
Having taken a few days to familiarize ourselves with the 'Highway code' we got quite good at just stepping out in front f moving vehicles just as the natives do. Once we learnt how to cross the roads, the next step was to go somewhere. One of the highlights was the Temple of Literature. Built in 1076, it was the home to all scholars in Hanoi and created by the KIng himself to train Vietnams literate men. Stone tablets seated on giant stone turtles contain the names of every graduate of the national exams since 1442. The temple is set in stunning gardens which a beautiful in their simplicity.
The m ain temple building contained satues to Confucius whose teachings inspired the creation of the temple. Even as the tour groups pased through, many Vietnamese prayed outside the temple door.

Confucian alter in the Temple of Literature

The furthest hall was rebuilt in 2000 as it was bombed by the US in the Vietnam War. While it was a faithful recreation it was nothing compared to the main temple old buildings. However to comemorate the original buildings, they did install a large bell and drum

Wooden drum installed in 2000

which were most impressive.
The other major stop for us was the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum complex. Ho Chi Minh requested that when he die he be creamated and there be no special grave or monument to him. As a result, the Vietnamese built what may be one of the most enormous and visually stunning mausoleums in the world.

Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum

The entire area is surrounded by the buildings which made up the old French colonial buildings and the villas of the colonists themselves which are a far cry from the living accomodations of the Vietnamese people of the time. The French villas are now part of a military base in the city and the governance buildings are occupied by the Vietnamese Communist party. As both are swarming with guards and 'No photograph' signs, we can't show you what they look like but Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum which is right next door is along the same size and scale but lacks the French sence of style.
The Tran Quoc pagoda was our final major site. The pagoda sits on the Ho Tay lake. The temple is small but impeccabley beautiful and the pagoda itself houses eight white marble Guan Yin (femal buddha) on each level.

At the rear of the pagoda there was a small temple hall in which could be heard chanting. People entering were instructed to take off their shoes before entering. The hall was filled with women chanting and after walkking through to the other side I was informed that this was a funeral ceremony and that these women would chant continuously for up to two hours. While not stunning, this temple was very unique in its style and atmosphere from all the others we had visited.

written by

Mal and Laura on August 31, 2007 from Hanoi, Vietnam

from the travel blog: A bit of China and Vietnam

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