Batu Karas

We booked transport from Yogya to a tiny village on the coast called Batu Karas – this was billed as one of the best places to learn to surf in Java. Rather luxuriously, we had a minivan to ourselves for the 6 hour journey. Although the physical distances in Indonesia are relatively small, the roads are so awful that at times it would be quicker to walk. It is for this reason it takes so long to get to places particularly the smaller, road less travelled places.

Batu Karas - Surfs up

The accommodation choices were somewhat limited but we did our usual and booked one night and found a better place the following morning. The beach was pretty nice and the surf did not disappoint! Despite all the time spent in Cornwall, I had never properly surfed, only bodyboarded, so was determined that this was the time and place we were going to master it! Tim was not quite so enthusiastic, but agreed to give it a shot. The surf lessons were run by local Indonesians, who looked as if they spent more time in the water than on land.
We had some practices on the sand, at which I failed dismally - balance not being great, I wondered how I would get up on the board in the sea, when I could not manage it on dry land! However once in the sea, something strange and unusual happened and I stood up!! Not just once either, and managed to ride waves the whole way in. Tim was not faring quite so well (a first for me to be better at something than him) and was nearly there but not quite. After having a rest day to let the bruises and aches subside a bit, we hit the waves again, and Tim was soon vertical on the board as well. At times there was a shoal of flying fish jumping all around us – very strange. The surf guys were absolutely brilliant and we loved it!

Batu Karas - Em surfing

Batu Karas - Tim surfing

Batu Karas was pretty magical, due to its size, everyone knew everyone, and we soon knew people by name and to chat to. The only negative was the lack of food choices. There were a few rustic cafes on the beach, all of which had identical menus, rice, noodles, omelettes and pancakes – breakfast, lunch and dinner. This was ok for the first day or two, but after that, I began dreaming of roast potatoes and even toast! The enjoyment of pancakes for breakfast was somewhat diminished after the discovery of shallow fried ants as a topping!

Batu Karas - Fishing boat at sunset

We had arranged to get the train to Jakarta, and had splashed out on a business ticket , which included air con. When we got on the train after a 3 hour car journey, our hopes were dashed, the aircon was a fan, and dreams of a buffet car were out the window!! After 7 hours on the train, we arrived in Jakarta, where our taxi driver could not find our hotel. After driving past it 3 times, we finally arrived at 2 am in the morning, and were so hungry we were eating dinner at 3 am! It felt pretty good – and to have a hot water shower again was heaven. Next stop Malaysia!

Cijulang, Indonesia