From cows to camels

2/11/08
There is probably far too much for me to possibly cover since my last entry. On Wednesday we left on a class trip to Shekawati, a slightly more rural and desert area north of Jaipur. This area has several independent and largely similarly sized villages—an unusual design in an area of feudal societies usually dominated by a single large urban center with fort and palace etc, surrounded by rural land.
The area has very cool terrain as you get nearer the Thar Desert. Odd trees on which the local people depend are in great numbers stripped of their leaves and are left to dot the barren hilly landscape knobbly and apparently out of a Dr. Seuss novel. More entertaining still though was that we stayed in a 5-star resort for the occasion. Guess how many times I’ve done that in my travels up to this point?
Yeah, well, it was rather incredible taking a hot shower rather than the bucket bathes that have become the common fare. It was a good thing too, because on Friday Betsey, Sarah, Teresa and I took off for Bikaner, a town even further in the desert expanses soon to take a camel safari.
The whole safari is possibly too lengthy to explain in detail. But there are several main points I’d like to get across for reference in case any of you every embark upon a similar campaign. First, camels are spectacular creatures, which after seeing one’s tongue I am absolutely convinced originally came from an alien planet before landing here and imitating the llama. They walk with elegant pride, head and neck raised high in the air. They make the strangest noises, including my favorite, a form of greeting offered to other camles that involves bellowing and gathering spit while sticking a bulb-shaped purple tongue out the side of their mouthes. They are also possibly the most unaccommodating and lackadaisical domestic creature I’ve ever encountered. They are led from a hole in their nose attached to a rope. If the rope was released they would simply stop, whether away from their camel buddies or not. And for all my horse-riding expertise I doubt I could have made the thing move an inch from astride it. Nonetheless, all our camels were anointed with names for our memory and gave a marvelous ride. So thank you Earla, Patrick (AKA Rackshad by night), Bo Jangles (named for the bells hanging from neck, nose and bony ankles), and most of all Bacchus largest and most ornery of all.
It was fascinating to see the rural side of India in which 80% of the population lives. We walked past tiny villages with only walking (or camlel) roads in or out and grass-made huts ensconced in walls of cow dung. I don’t think I’ve ever really witnessed that kind of ruralism before.
Another tip: if you go on a camel safari get guides like ours. We had four men, one who spoke English and taught us card tricks, and all of whom Indian and waiting on four gals head in foot including cooking spectacular alu gobi. He knew European slang and called Teresa Mother. Remind me to teach you my new favorite card game pairs.
Lastly, what they say about the Thar is true. It seems quite possible to get heat stroke by day and frostbite by night. We were crammed in a tiny tent together with large (camel-smelling) blankets, sleeping bags, and wearing everything we owned. I think my water was on the verge of freezing. Ah, but the stars are certainly not over exaggerated!
The ride home involved another train adventure. Sarah got into conversation with several Indian men with a tad of English who asked questions about what we thought of the nuclear deal between the US and India and told us that in fact all Muslim countries are terrorists. I made the blunder of admitted I did at times drink a little with my family. They told me we could be family and poured out of Aquafina bottles what turned out to be an especially appalling mix of vodka and water. If you thought refusing alcohol at college parties was hard trying refusing it to three staring Indian men on the train next to you. We arrived late, tired and freezing but I had a treat in store. Crazy host mom auntieji is gone for the next couple days, so party at our house! Just kidding…sort of.
Somewhere in the crazy weekend between camel farts, vodka, and arriving at 1:30 in the morning, I had to write a book report, translate hindi sentences, and read for History. Has anyone ever told you that study abroad involves doing, like, homework?

written by

Drie on February 13, 2008 from Bikaneri, India

from the travel blog: Adventures in Hindustan

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Phew Dana! I'm glad you blogged! I was missing hearing about your adventures! And you finally got your picture to show up! Yay!

written by Della on February 13, 2008

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