Oh - wow!! Up the Cap Corse.

It was a beautifully sunny day although the wind was strong and keeping it cool. We travelled north up the eastern side of the Cap Corse along an exciting roller coaster of a road. Sue warning me whenever she thought I was in danger of misjudging the width of the car. The closeness to the nearside had more to do with the width of the road and the habit of the locals in using more than their half than any desire on my part. We went through many little picturesque hamlets and villages on our way to our first stop in the rather quaintly named Erbalunga, which sounds neither Italian nor French.

Most of the village is pedestrianised and we parked up and walked down to the harbour where there is a Genoese Tower. The wind here was very fierce at times so we didn't linger too long but took some nice photos of the tower and the little harbour.

Genoese Tower, Erbalunga

We could clearly see the Islands of Elba and Monte Cristo some distance out to sea. From here we made our way up to Macinaggio; we had originally thought we might take a walk along a small part of the sentier douanier but the wind was so strong that we thought we could have been blown over at an inconvenient spot; discretion took the better part of valour.

Strong winds at Macinaggio harbour

We had our picnic lunch in a relatively quiet spot near the start point of the sentier. This footpath is the only way to get to the north east coast of the cap and is supposed to be quite spectacular but takes about 4 hours to get to the next village. In summer it is recommended that you take 3 litres of water per person! I guess that at least your pack is getting lighter all the time! From Macinaggio, we carried on the so-called main road across the top of the island. The outside verge was well weathered and unpredictable in places; it certainly bore more of a relation to a small country lane in deepest rural France than a highway. This made driving particularly interesting. On the way up the east coast we had several 'Oh wow' moments most of which were to do with a vista opening up. Going across the top, with amazing views back over to the villages and sea beyond was full of more.

Windmill Mattei

At the western end of the road, there is an old windmill that has been restored by the manufacturers of the local aperitif – Cap Corse (which tastes very like red vermouth). We thought we would leave the car in the park and take a short walk up to the mill but when I stopped, Sue couldn't open her door against the wind. I found a more sheltered corner of the car park where we were able to actually get out but again decided that the strength of the wind made a walk up to the top inadvisable. We contented ourselves by photographing the mill and a flock of goats that had strayed onto the road.

The route down the west coast proved no easier but we were more than compensated by the increase in the number of 'Oh wow' moments, with the sun bouncing off the turquoise blue water and the roofs of the little villages, it was stunning.

At Pino we took a sharp left hand turn off the main road to cross back over the top of the island. This road was in even worse condition for the first few kilometres, then magically it became a real road of good width with an excellent tarmac surface. We stopped at col de Santa Lucia and parked up. The wind here seemed less fierce, so we decided to go for a walk up to the tour de Seneca.

Half way up to the Tour de Seneca

Apparently, the old man was banished here for seducing the Emperor Claudius' niece although this didn't prevent him trying it on with the local women. As it took Sue & me about an hour and a half to complete the round trip and at least today, there are no near neighbours, I can't help feeling he must have been an extremely fit fellow. What's more we didn't venture the last 60 feet or so to the tower itself; there is no path and it is just a scramble. Even without the wind to contend with, we didn't fancy it without ropes and pitons.

However, from the ledge below the tower, we were able to see both sides of the cape with some wonderful views. While we came down we could hear what the local youth were making of this nice quality bit of road; clearly a challenge not to be missed, several cars roared up the road, tyres screeching as they fought for grip against centripetal force around each of the many corners. I have always thought French driving was at the poor end of the spectrum but I found myself wondering what percentage of the Corsican reach their middle ages. Certainly, they make the average French driver look like an angel. In case there should be any debate about this, I have already mentioned that our hire car had a couple of dings; as we walked aound town, I had noted that most cars have a collection of dings – perhaps it is a mark of passage? (Daniele if you are reading this, I realise what you will be thinking but in my defence will point out that I have no dings on my car!!) And so back to the coast road at Santa Severa, heading south back to Bastia with a big decision about what to do about dinner.

View of western Cap Corse

Oh - wow!! Up the Cap Corse.

Bastia, France