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The snow road to cascade

Vizzavone, France


The clocks springing forwards this morning meant that we weren't away until just after 10:00 for our much looked forward to trip to Les Cascades des Anglais. It acquired this soubriquet when it became a required picnic spot for wealthy English on their Grand Tour of Europe.

The N193 from Corte is a main road but even this had been closed by snow last week; we hoped with the good weather of the last few days, this wouldn't be a problem. Sure enough, the road was clear and with temperatures in the teens, we were able to make good time as the road made its circuitous route around the mountains. The guide book had suggested using a car park opposite an Auberge. Well the Auberge was closed and the car park had over a foot of snow on it, so we couldn't use that! I daresay that our Canadian family would think little of this but I haven't seen so much snow in a long time. I am sure that it was of a type with which I am not familiar, as well – it did not behave as British snow. We found somewhere to leave the car and braced ourselves for the walk. Getting to the path was the first challenge! Over the bank of snow that had been ploughed off the road. You created a base for your foot by carefully pressing the snow down about 4 inches and if it packed tight, put your weight on it. This was OK except very occasionally, once your whole weight was on it, it would suddenly give and your foot sank down a couple of feet, collecting snow in the tops of your socks as you pulled out. Ideally we would have worn snow shoes but we didn't bring any and couldn't be bothered trying to find some. With waterproof footwear, we reckoned we would be OK anyway. The walk is supposed to take about 30 minutes each way but having to cope with the snow and the terrain – not knowing what would happen when you put your weight on each foot, it made the walk a lot longer and harder. It took us an hour to reach the cascades and a bit more to get back. But it was worth the effort; stunning is a word we have probably overused on the blog; even Grandpa M would probably have agreed that it was fantastic. The scenery, the stillness beyond the constant thrum of the water cascading down the river bed, the glorious sunshine, the colours with light dappling the scene through the trees, the clear air and water and the scrunch of snow underfoot all assailed the senses. In over two hours of walking, we met three people; I'm sure that it is very different in summer and we felt really privileged to have it to ourselves. We got back to the car thoroughly exhausted, exhilarated and a little damp of foot. After a bit of rehydration we drove on to Bocognano to give some thought seeing the Bridal Veil Falls – a quick recce suggested that though there was no snow, it would be a bit of a scramble, so we popped into the convenient village bakery for a late snack before returning to Corte.

We decided to go to the same eatery as last night; it is not the most promising exterior and it means going underground. The restaurant is a simple, basic no frills sort of a place but it has an excellent traditional Corsican menu, beautifully cooked and with very cheerful and good service. Above all it is very good value. Look out for Orenga de Gaffroy on the left heading towards the citadel from the Hotel du Nord about 100 metres up.


permalink written by  rickandsuejohnson on March 31, 2008 from Vizzavone, France
from the travel blog: The island of birth for 'Le petit caporal' and the roots of Bernard Nobili
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With reference to the Canadian family; I'm having to reassure them that you meant no offence with your gesture in the top photo mum. As discussed as xmas, the double-thumbs up is indeed a cultural faux pas on these shores. Anyway, glad to hear and see you having such fun on your trip, and we're all throughly looking forward to your next adventure here in July!

permalink written by  Ollie Rhymes Johnson on March 30, 2008


Oh no, I'll have to brush up on my etiquette when I get home. - Mum

permalink written by  rickandsuejohnson on March 31, 2008

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