Day 7

On March 6, we first set foot on Antarctica -- or at least an island. First, we went to Torgersen Island, home of the Adelie rookery. Because it wsa late in the season, there weren't the hundreds of thousands of penguins you see in pictures. There were, however, the perfect amount. Many to see and walk around, with a bit less "guano" (penguin shit) than at the height of the season. Adelies have black heads and backs and white stomachs. Amongst the Adelies was one lonely gentoo -- noticeable by its orange beak and white flare about the eyes.

After Torgerson, we went to Palmer Station, the only American base on the Penninsula. On ship we got a sllide show presentation about the Antarctic program, logistics and scientific work. Then it was a quick tour around the base and a trip to the "gift shop" for souveniers. We then headed toward the Lenaire Channel, which we were told was a strikingly beautiful passage and through which two prior boats failed to make. Unfortunately, we were also turned back, not by ice but by heavy snowfall which made it impossible to see even a few feet away.

So, instead of the Lenaire, we went to Port Lockroy. There we wandered among a gentoo rookery. On our way, George Llano spoke about "pastures of the sea" and I slept. Port Lockroy was also a whaling station and huge bones were left as a reminder. Natalie believes that the spine at least came from a blue whale -- rare as there is estimated to be only 1 - 3,000 left.

I thought I would get bored watching penguins all day, but this is not the case. It is fascinating even to sit still and follow the movements of just one.

Often when we land, half go "cruising" on the zofiacs while the other half visit the island. This minimized the impact on the continent and makes for a more enjoyable trip for those ashore.

Other than the Collins and Carole, I can't remember who I ate with, but we were the loudest table around.

Notes:
porposing" -- penguins swimming through the water.

written by  shoshtrvls on March 6, 1992 from Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina
from the travel blog: Antarctica and South America (1992)
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