Hope - Blogabond

Ghardaia, Algeria

I met Aliau Doiallo as he was working on a construction project in the palm grove where I am staying, and got the chance to hear his story over some olives and almonds and really strong mint tea.

Alieu Diallo

Aliau first left his home in Bamako, Mali at age 15, to find a job in Europe. He hitched 2200 kilometers east to Agadez, Niger, then 450 kilometers north through Arlit to the border with Algeria at I-n-Guezzam. An agreement between Mali and Algeria allowed him to enter Algeria legally. He continued to head north, through Tamanrasset, I-n-Salah, El-Miniaa, Ghardaia, Laghouat, Tiaret and Oran, arriving at the Morroccan border at Oujda after a 2400 kilometer haul across the Sahara. In Oujda he payed a Morroccan 2000 Algerian Dinar to smuggle him across the border into Morrocco. Finally, as he stole into the Spanish enclave of Melilla with 650 Benladeshi refugees, Spanish police nabbed the entire group. Aliau’s first attempt to reach Europe was over.

The Bengladeshi’s rioted in an effort to escape, and so all were handed over to the Morroccan police, bussed to Rabat, Morrocco and put on a plane back to Mali. Now, eight years later, Aliau is back in Ghardaia, Algeria working construction and odd jobs and considering his next move. The work here is diminishing. He questioned me intently about the United States, wanting to know where it was hot and cold, whether there were many foreigners there like himself, and where there was work. He wanted to know if I could send him a certificate de herbergement so that he could get a visa.

Alieu Diallo

I suggested that he find the Mali community overseas, because one man like myself could not hope to support him indefinitely while he accustomed himself to the USA, but a community might take him on. I'm not sure I convinced either of us, but I don't think that Aliau will give up: in his eyes and his eagerness, despite all of the obstacles he has endured or perhaps because of them, I saw someone with the dispassionate ability to assess a situation, the imagination to create a possibility, and the energy and animation of someone infused with and inspired by hope.

so, how was the party? what is a typical algerian bash like? did you get stopped along the way or did the police give you free access? do they have a particular kind of alcohol? hey, you do great parties!

written by nieke on January 15, 2007

I got shut down before I even got on the bicycle. Said told the police I was headed up to Guerara on my bike, and he was told that it would not be allowed under any circumstances. I was livid for about an hour, then just annoyed. Algeria was embarrassed by the German hostage crisis a few years ago, and since the desert is completely impossible to effectively police, they responded by policing the tourists instead. Im sure we tourists are more pliant than your average bandit.

I suppose the bureaucratic response is understandable, though the international double standard is ridiculous: if 30 Algerians were held up in United States, you can be sure no new laws would be passed. Restrictions on tourists almost certainly result from the unreasonable pressures put on Algeria by the foreign countries from which the tourists come. It serves us right.

written by roel krabbendam on January 16, 2007

so much for this bike trip! tomorrow Tamanrasett? have fun on the bus?! so much for beth shopping, how can she see what she wants to buy?
I hope that you will take pics on the bus so we can see the endless sand on the way down south! does this mean that you are going to have to travel in the same way in Niger?

written by Polly on January 16, 2007

comment on this...