Here is a little synopsis over our trip to finally took us to the arctic circle and above!

We left Whitehorse - which by the way is a really nice city that both of is instantly felt we liked- to start our journey that would take us up the Dempster highway and to Inuvik. We had stayed for one night at the Bicicletta B&B which is owned and run by a guy who has biked around the world ! and his wife. Really fabulously nice people!

Whitehorse

Instead of going to Dawson City on the way up, we decided to just go to the junction where the Dempster starts and overnight there. On the way we went through little places such as Pelly Crossing where this interesting note was posted on the board outside the local store:

Sign on the board outside the grocery store...

We ended up at the Klondike River Lodge. On the way we saw a mommy bear with her two little cubs crossing the road.

the Klondike River logde at the start of the Dempster. INTERESTING place!

Mother bear with two cubs

The Klondike River lodge is a VERY interesting place! The service was mediocre (Victoria's diplomatic judgement. Robert thought it was complete sh*****t). We weren't too sad to leave early the next morning to embark on the epic Dempster highway.

Start of the Dempster

We were lucky with the weather which was a mix of sun and cloud. The experience is truly an 'experience' that is difficult to describe in words, but to give you a little taste of it, here are some photos:

LARGE sky. Large plains. Small humans...

Canadian tundra

Sheep? Moose? Squirrels? ANYTHING?

At the mid-point of the Dempster is the Eagle River Plains hotel. Everybody traveling up the Dempster pretty much have to stop here as it is the only gas stop in the middle of the highway. We only stopped for fuel and some food and then continued on.

Eagle Plains River Loge- Mid-point on the Dempster

After about four hours we arrived at the Arctic Circle! It was cold and windy, but Robert thought it was a good idea to show off some muscles! Victoria kept her clothes on.

At the arctic circle... Robert being...hmmm....manly?

Victoria and the tundra

The rest of the trip was breathtaking with tundra, mountains, forests but again.. surprisingly little wildlife. We saw four caribous but nothing else. The trees got shorter and shorter and were leaning all over the place. They actually looked a little pathetic. Or as Robert put it: Want to be a tree???? Grow some needles!!! And stand up straight!!!!!

Sad trees after forest fire

Soon enough we crossed into the Northwest Territories where they have really neat license plates on the cars:

Cool license plate!

Our plan was to not drive the entire way up to Inuvik but to stop overnight in Fort McPherson. As we drove into town and asked for a rate at the only hotel (which apparently had monopoly over the whole lodging business) we decided to continue to Inuvik as they wanted $200 for a room that you might have to share with somebody else!

We arrived Inuvik late in the evening and stayed at a bed and breakfast that was run by a Swiss/American lady and her Norweigain/Canadian husband. One wonders how people who weren't born in these remote towns end up there!

The next morning we went out to get a good look at Inuvik. Trying to be diplomatic in case there are Inuvik residents reading this blog, the best way to describe it was.... hmmm..... quiet.... and a little... boring.... Not much was going on after the summer season ended and even the camp site was closed. We went to visit the Igloo church (closed), the tourist centre (closed), the swimming pool (closed), the greenhouse (closed) but manage to find a liquor store and a grocery store that were open!

Downtown

Igloo church

Colourful houses

All houses are built on stilts because the permafrost in this part of the world makes it impossible to put the houses directly on the ground.

House on stilts!

We had this idea that we wanted to go on a chartered plane ride to Tuk, a little town right by the arctic sea to see pingos and perhaps even a polar bear. Unfortunately, since the tourist season is over, the cheapest way to get there would have been with a regular scheduled flight at a cost of $700. As we thought that was a bit steep and since there didn't seem to be much else to explore in town we decided to hit the road again.

We didn't mean to drive all the way back to Dawson as the weather now was getting bad and the gravel road was more like a muddly rollercoaster, but when we came to the mid-point of Eagle Plains we decided to keep going. 10 hours from the start we rolled into Dawson and decided to get a room at the first hotel we could find. We ended up staying at the Downtown Inn which is (in)famous for serving the 'sourtoe' cocktail. According to myths, the drink contains a human toe which is dropped into the drink. You are not supposed to drink the toe, just let it touch your lips as you throw the drink back but if you do, you will be part of the brave group of people that has done a 'sourtoe'... As it was too late we decided to have a good night's sleep before deciding if that was something we wanted to do.

Downtown hotel in Dawson

In the morning, we ventured out to take a look at town. It is a really charming place which is being restored to the state it was in during the 1890's gold rush. The houses are wooden and a lot of old signs are still up.

Store fronts in Dawson City

Robert by the Klondike river

Tomorrow we will be visiting some gold mines and try panning for gold ourselves! Tonight we'll stay at Bombay Peggy's which is an old house built around 1900 that has an history as a private residence, brothel (!), bed & breakfast and now, a posh boutique hotel.

written by  Victoria & Robert on September 17, 2009 from Inuvik, Canada
from the travel blog: the Canadian Arctic
Send a Compliment

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Mate,

You still have not got lost, still with only one road you should be OK!!!

Keep at it.

Barry

written by  Barry Grosart on September 19, 2009

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Hi,
Pictures still wonderful (except Dad says 'no more naked pictures please} What are the population figures in these places? can't imagine what it's like to actually live there all the year round. Got to be special people.

Jenny & John left today and we've had wonderful few days with them, they saw the blog and will be keeping up with your journey when they get back home.
love Mum and Dad

written by  Fay Ryan on September 20, 2009

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Now then Robert, you said you would be Huntin, Fishin and campin, as far as i can see you have caught nothing, shot nothing and stayed in B&B's or hotels, Sooooooooooo situation no change for you then!!!!!
the good thing is you know my anti hunting stance!!

Iwill e in Kelowna 8 -18 oct, are you around??

Keep at it, hope rain eases

Best as ever

Baz

written by  Barry Grosart on September 21, 2009

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Looks fantastic Robert and Victoria. Hope you are having a great time.... but I can't believe you put the big fish back.

Charlie

written by  Chaz on October 12, 2009

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