Fly to Chiang Rai, couldn't get an early plane so took the second flight out with our guide Oot. He bought food (cash me) and we waited in restaurant. then walked a little ways to boat dock -- took long flat motorized boat up the Mai Kok river to Karen Village, a village where various Karens (red, etc.) had come down from the hills to live. from there, on elephant back (elephant name was Me Bunne) up rather steep and muddy hill to a Yao Village. It started to pour just before we arrived. Interesting features -- animals under huts, headdresses like Turbans, jackets with red fur/fringe. Oot's a good cook. Smoke filtered cigarettes through a bamboo bong.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 1987 from Chiang Rai, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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Some of it was interesting though. The first factory produced lacquer and silverware and was definitely the best (they also had the best shop with some very interesting little f...cking dolls and antique buddha I almost bought). Next came the silver factory. What was amazing there was how some of the artisans copied some very intricate designs only by sight. After that was the teak shop, pretty boring after about two seconds of watching someone with an awl. The fourth shop made umbrellas and fans from both paper and silk. The last (finally!) was the silk factory which did hold my attention because the weaving seemed so difficult (but monotonous as well). Barbara bought birds for merit-making.

From there we went to lunch at a Japanese restaurant (!) which was quite pretty and had a couple of monkeys out front. After lunch we began the long, terrifying, but beautiful bus ride up to Doi Suthep, a buddhist temple located on a mountain overlooking Chiang Mail, a city infinitely more appealing than Bangkok. The temple was pretty uninspired except for the view which was quite hazy the day we were there. So we walked around the temple for a while (which you need to take a tram up to) and then looked at some jade factories/shops just below the temple. The bus had a tv in it on which our driver was watching professional wrestling wrestling while waiting for us. Anyway, it took about two hours to get back to Chiang Mai -- everyone slept.

Once we got back to Chiang Mai, Barbara and I made arrangements for a three-day trek to the hill tribes. Summit Tours had been recommended to us but they were closed so we went next door to a place called Galare Travel and hired a guide (the owner) whose nickname was Oot -- the sound a pig makes, he explained. He seemed nice, knowledgeable and trustworthy and so we were set.

We then went back to the hotel for a while and then had dinner at a fairly decent outdoor restaurant where we tried a really interesting banana-like fruit. Afterwards, we walked through the night bazaar for a bit and I began down the path of becoming an international smuggler by buying a supposedly antique wooden Burmese buddha. Antique or not, since the export of ANY buddhas from Thailand is forbidden without government approval, I had taken the first step.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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Two notes on things I noticed in Bangkok (which also held true for the rest of Thailand). First, all the doorways were raised. At Jim Thompson's House they explained that the raised doorways were to keep out evil spirits. Also, there were little shrines everywhere, usually white with red (a sacred color) smeared all over and flower garlands hanging on it. Interesting.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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Our morning sightseeing took us to the Grand Palace, an elaborate enclosed area with many temples and beautiful murals along the walls. There were many interesting sculptures and statues but the highlight was the Emerald Buddha, rather small but set atop a high pedestal and the pedestal was surrounded by many other carvings and icons. Very elaborate and spiritual.

Next we went to Kao San Road for lunch and errands. Kao San Road was near our hotel and the main guest house "drag" - lots of shops which cater to what Lonely Planet calls the "budget traveler." I really liked it because it had a terrific fell to it -- many western travelers experiencing life in southeast asia. In fact, it was on Kao San Road that Marc and I ran into Carole and Judith Fixman on their way to the post office to ship home a package. I don't know why I don't like Carole, but I just feel uncomfortable around her -- maybe because of her relationship with Marc, whatever it may be. At any rate, Marc and I walked a little way longer and then said our goodbyes, and he even promised (again) to fly to LA for my birthday.

I then went back to the hotel to meet Barb and figure out what time to leave for the airport, etc. Since I had a few hours left, I decided to take a walk and, realizing how close the Royal Barge shed was, I set out to see the barges. This involved crossing the river, which had restaurants along its banks, and which provided an interesting view (although I was surprised that I couldn't see Wat Arum). From there I made a left and began walking through a very poor area along the river. At first the road was fairly wide but as I continued along it got much more narrow and in fact became basically a wooden path built over what was, in essence, a sewer. And the area became poorer and poorer, if that was possible. I would have thought I was lost if it weren't for the signs -- "Royal Barges 400m" and then, much more than 100m (I think), "Royal Barges 300m," etc. Along the way, people kept staring at me, saying hello, etc. And there were even what seemed to be small stores selling food. And I kept walking and following the signs. Finally, I reached the barge shed only to find -- no barges! Just empty docks and one or two covers -- elaborate but not necessarily worth the trip, except that the trip was itself worthwhile. But what I want to know is why none of those smiling faces who obviously knew why I was walking through their neighborhood didn't even try to indicate that the barges were not in their shed!

Anyway, I retraced my steps, got lost only once, and passed many children on their way home from school -- all in immaculate uniforms! I couldn't believe it and I wondered (and still do) how they could possibly keep them that clean, or wash them, in that neighborhood. Then came the biggest surprise -- just as I was getting close to a main road, I looked up and was face to face with an elephant! In the middle of Bangkok! There was even a man on top and both of them looked nearly dead. And the kids kept staring a me, not the elephant. Now, where was the elephant going? I can't imagine there being enough room for him, or the wooden path supporting all that weight.

I eventually got back to the hotel without further incident. As usual, Barb was late and having difficulties getting away from Sath. The traffic was a mess -- Barb planned an hour and we made the flight to Chain Mai only due to the incredible traffic-dodging and speed racing by our cab driver. In the end, we were only 10 minutes late -- and Barb apologized profusely, and even bought me a coke?

written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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Marc did show up, looking like a real hippie traveler in baggy white drawstring pants and white sleeveless tea shirt. After a long hug and a trip to the Bank of America conveniently located right next door, we hopped on a bus (2 baht) to Jim Thompson's House, a tourist sight/site that came highly recommended to both of us. First, however, we stopped for breakfast -- I had Chinese style, Marc had Western. Then it was down an alley to this house which, while interesting, was hardly the great sight/attraction I had heard about. A lot of interesting Thai and Burmese art and artifacts, but that's about all. Really, the most interesting thing was the view across the canal - your basic Bangkok residential area -- wooden homes along the canal, the obligatory hanging laundry, kids running about, etc. Marc bought his fortune and we bought a postcard for Tom.

From there, Marc wanted to find a tailor to have some suits made -- the girl at the Jim Thompson's house told us about a large shopping area within walking distance but somehow we got trapped by a tout and ended up walking up and down the street going to his "recommended" tailors. We finally got rid of him and hailed a tuk-tuk to the Royal Hotel so I could buy my voucher for the previous night's room. Lo and behold, there was a tailor in the hotel so Marc had his measurements taken, picked some fabrics and styles and ordered two suits.

Next we decided to strike out for Wat Po. I thought about changing to long pants (I was in shorts) but Marc said not to worry, none of the Wats were strict about proper attire. Well, first, in an attempt to find lunch, we walked through a bazaar along the canal between the hotel and the temple. It was interesting -- people selling everything from hammers to videos (pirated, of course). Unfortunately, the only food in the bazaar was pre-cooked. We finally found a restaurant, relatively clean, and ate.

We then hailed a taxi to Wat Po where, surprise!, no shorts allowed. A little upset, I thought we'd just walk over to the main street and I'd pick up a sarong. Well, no such luck -- the nearby street was basically a food market, but what a find! Barrels of spices, garlic cloves separated by size, a fish warehouse, stalls with wandering around, an apothocary shop circa 1930's with large bottles of medicines, etc.

Eventually we got kicked out of the fish warehouse because Marc was climbing around looking for good photo angles. Our jaunt ended, we rushed back to the hotel so I could put on a pair of pants. It was either at this point or during the earlier stop that I received a note that Barb hd left for me over a week earlier! Basically, she gave me advise which I really didn't need -- where the banks were, how to pay for the room, etc., and also set out the plans she had made for us to go to Northern Thailand. I was slightly pissed but realized that it had been done with only (?) the best intentions.

Anyway, Marc and I got back to Wat Po around 4 p.m. and hired a guide who spoke very good English and explained everything quite well. There were several interesting things about the temple. First, I was amazed that they allowed peddlers onto the grounds, for Marc and I were constantly besieged by people selling embroideries, rubbings and the like. Secondly, we were told about Rama IV of "The King & I" -- which apparently banned in Thailand (as is the song "One Night In Bangkok"). I also learned about buying birds just to set them free (merit-making) and got a sample massage (another peddler trying to sell his services). Interestingly, the statues had European pants on them, the Marco Polo influence.

But the really amazing thing was the reclining Buddha -- it was so enormous that I didn't even realize I was looking at it until I recognized the crook of the elbow. It was even too big to photograph. By the time the guide took us to the bat (main hall) it was 5 p.m. -- closing time because the monks pray at 5. But instead of being kicked out, we were allowed to sit in the back and listen to the chanting. It was quite beautiful -- very melodic, not at all like the monotone chanting I expected.

From Wat Po, Marc and I went back to my hotel. No sooner did we get into the room then the phone began to ring -- it was Avi, recently arrived from San Francisco. Marc and I met him in the lobby and shared a beer, and we attempted to make dinner plans which would include Barb and Mercer (Avi's friend), neither of whom was present. We decide to meet later that evening. Marc went to his hotel to change while Avi went to take a nap. I think I did the same (I don't remember). Eventually Marc returned and promptly fell asleep on my bed. Barb finally showed up and the troops (less Marc) plus a guy Barb had met named Sath (Thai, but owned a restaurant and living in France?) headed for the red light district -- Pat Pong Road. Just walking down the street was a trip -- the touts advertising their "f...cking shows" -- they even had cards printed up listing the various acts -- "pussy opening bottle," etc. Avi kept insisting that there was good seafood restaurants nearby, but eventually we settled on a mediocre place -- everyone had Thai food but Avi, who ordered a cheeseburger.

After dinner, Avi and Mercer went to see a f...cking show while Sath took Barb and I to a really nice disco/bar called the Rome Club -- Sath apparently knew the owner. there was, of course, one catch -- it was a gay bar. But the music was good -- we all danced and I left around 12:30, apparently just before the drag show.

When I got back to my room. Marc was still asleep on the bed. What to do? Well, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened at all.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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