Day 20

Marc did show up, looking like a real hippie traveler in baggy white drawstring pants and white sleeveless tea shirt. After a long hug and a trip to the Bank of America conveniently located right next door, we hopped on a bus (2 baht) to Jim Thompson's House, a tourist sight/site that came highly recommended to both of us. First, however, we stopped for breakfast -- I had Chinese style, Marc had Western. Then it was down an alley to this house which, while interesting, was hardly the great sight/attraction I had heard about. A lot of interesting Thai and Burmese art and artifacts, but that's about all. Really, the most interesting thing was the view across the canal - your basic Bangkok residential area -- wooden homes along the canal, the obligatory hanging laundry, kids running about, etc. Marc bought his fortune and we bought a postcard for Tom.

From there, Marc wanted to find a tailor to have some suits made -- the girl at the Jim Thompson's house told us about a large shopping area within walking distance but somehow we got trapped by a tout and ended up walking up and down the street going to his "recommended" tailors. We finally got rid of him and hailed a tuk-tuk to the Royal Hotel so I could buy my voucher for the previous night's room. Lo and behold, there was a tailor in the hotel so Marc had his measurements taken, picked some fabrics and styles and ordered two suits.

Next we decided to strike out for Wat Po. I thought about changing to long pants (I was in shorts) but Marc said not to worry, none of the Wats were strict about proper attire. Well, first, in an attempt to find lunch, we walked through a bazaar along the canal between the hotel and the temple. It was interesting -- people selling everything from hammers to videos (pirated, of course). Unfortunately, the only food in the bazaar was pre-cooked. We finally found a restaurant, relatively clean, and ate.

We then hailed a taxi to Wat Po where, surprise!, no shorts allowed. A little upset, I thought we'd just walk over to the main street and I'd pick up a sarong. Well, no such luck -- the nearby street was basically a food market, but what a find! Barrels of spices, garlic cloves separated by size, a fish warehouse, stalls with wandering around, an apothocary shop circa 1930's with large bottles of medicines, etc.

Eventually we got kicked out of the fish warehouse because Marc was climbing around looking for good photo angles. Our jaunt ended, we rushed back to the hotel so I could put on a pair of pants. It was either at this point or during the earlier stop that I received a note that Barb hd left for me over a week earlier! Basically, she gave me advise which I really didn't need -- where the banks were, how to pay for the room, etc., and also set out the plans she had made for us to go to Northern Thailand. I was slightly pissed but realized that it had been done with only (?) the best intentions.

Anyway, Marc and I got back to Wat Po around 4 p.m. and hired a guide who spoke very good English and explained everything quite well. There were several interesting things about the temple. First, I was amazed that they allowed peddlers onto the grounds, for Marc and I were constantly besieged by people selling embroideries, rubbings and the like. Secondly, we were told about Rama IV of "The King & I" -- which apparently banned in Thailand (as is the song "One Night In Bangkok"). I also learned about buying birds just to set them free (merit-making) and got a sample massage (another peddler trying to sell his services). Interestingly, the statues had European pants on them, the Marco Polo influence.

But the really amazing thing was the reclining Buddha -- it was so enormous that I didn't even realize I was looking at it until I recognized the crook of the elbow. It was even too big to photograph. By the time the guide took us to the bat (main hall) it was 5 p.m. -- closing time because the monks pray at 5. But instead of being kicked out, we were allowed to sit in the back and listen to the chanting. It was quite beautiful -- very melodic, not at all like the monotone chanting I expected.

From Wat Po, Marc and I went back to my hotel. No sooner did we get into the room then the phone began to ring -- it was Avi, recently arrived from San Francisco. Marc and I met him in the lobby and shared a beer, and we attempted to make dinner plans which would include Barb and Mercer (Avi's friend), neither of whom was present. We decide to meet later that evening. Marc went to his hotel to change while Avi went to take a nap. I think I did the same (I don't remember). Eventually Marc returned and promptly fell asleep on my bed. Barb finally showed up and the troops (less Marc) plus a guy Barb had met named Sath (Thai, but owned a restaurant and living in France?) headed for the red light district -- Pat Pong Road. Just walking down the street was a trip -- the touts advertising their "f...cking shows" -- they even had cards printed up listing the various acts -- "pussy opening bottle," etc. Avi kept insisting that there was good seafood restaurants nearby, but eventually we settled on a mediocre place -- everyone had Thai food but Avi, who ordered a cheeseburger.

After dinner, Avi and Mercer went to see a f...cking show while Sath took Barb and I to a really nice disco/bar called the Rome Club -- Sath apparently knew the owner. there was, of course, one catch -- it was a gay bar. But the music was good -- we all danced and I left around 12:30, apparently just before the drag show.

When I got back to my room. Marc was still asleep on the bed. What to do? Well, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened at all.

written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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