Day 21

Our morning sightseeing took us to the Grand Palace, an elaborate enclosed area with many temples and beautiful murals along the walls. There were many interesting sculptures and statues but the highlight was the Emerald Buddha, rather small but set atop a high pedestal and the pedestal was surrounded by many other carvings and icons. Very elaborate and spiritual.

Next we went to Kao San Road for lunch and errands. Kao San Road was near our hotel and the main guest house "drag" - lots of shops which cater to what Lonely Planet calls the "budget traveler." I really liked it because it had a terrific fell to it -- many western travelers experiencing life in southeast asia. In fact, it was on Kao San Road that Marc and I ran into Carole and Judith Fixman on their way to the post office to ship home a package. I don't know why I don't like Carole, but I just feel uncomfortable around her -- maybe because of her relationship with Marc, whatever it may be. At any rate, Marc and I walked a little way longer and then said our goodbyes, and he even promised (again) to fly to LA for my birthday.

I then went back to the hotel to meet Barb and figure out what time to leave for the airport, etc. Since I had a few hours left, I decided to take a walk and, realizing how close the Royal Barge shed was, I set out to see the barges. This involved crossing the river, which had restaurants along its banks, and which provided an interesting view (although I was surprised that I couldn't see Wat Arum). From there I made a left and began walking through a very poor area along the river. At first the road was fairly wide but as I continued along it got much more narrow and in fact became basically a wooden path built over what was, in essence, a sewer. And the area became poorer and poorer, if that was possible. I would have thought I was lost if it weren't for the signs -- "Royal Barges 400m" and then, much more than 100m (I think), "Royal Barges 300m," etc. Along the way, people kept staring at me, saying hello, etc. And there were even what seemed to be small stores selling food. And I kept walking and following the signs. Finally, I reached the barge shed only to find -- no barges! Just empty docks and one or two covers -- elaborate but not necessarily worth the trip, except that the trip was itself worthwhile. But what I want to know is why none of those smiling faces who obviously knew why I was walking through their neighborhood didn't even try to indicate that the barges were not in their shed!

Anyway, I retraced my steps, got lost only once, and passed many children on their way home from school -- all in immaculate uniforms! I couldn't believe it and I wondered (and still do) how they could possibly keep them that clean, or wash them, in that neighborhood. Then came the biggest surprise -- just as I was getting close to a main road, I looked up and was face to face with an elephant! In the middle of Bangkok! There was even a man on top and both of them looked nearly dead. And the kids kept staring a me, not the elephant. Now, where was the elephant going? I can't imagine there being enough room for him, or the wooden path supporting all that weight.

I eventually got back to the hotel without further incident. As usual, Barb was late and having difficulties getting away from Sath. The traffic was a mess -- Barb planned an hour and we made the flight to Chain Mai only due to the incredible traffic-dodging and speed racing by our cab driver. In the end, we were only 10 minutes late -- and Barb apologized profusely, and even bought me a coke?

written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)
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