Decompressing in Coban

Wow! I feel like I've just reentered the modern world after spending the week in Campur, a couple of hours bus ride northeast of here. Learned a lot this week about the conditions, life and work in this very poor region of Guatemala. Slept in a bunk at the FUNCEDESCRI center, but each day a different family provided meals in their house. The people were very gracious and although most speak the Mayan dialect Q'eqchi', I was escorted by one of FUNCEDESCRI's agroecology promoters - Mario - who translated for me between Q'eqchi' and Spanish. Apparently, there have been few visitors there from outside of the country. Got a lot of stares and smiles (and probably jokes), especially from the kids who were shy but very interested in the strange-looking alien. All were very friendly and gracious though, and very generous with what little they have.

This is truly a different world - and one that we can learn much from, although the recent war, displacement, and appropriation and exploitation of the land have caused the loss or subversion of much of the culture and traditional knowledge (including knowledge about agriculture and medicine). Traditionally, the lifestyle has been more beneficial to the earth and while while ours values competition and individualism, theirs is more about sharing with the whole community.

Constructing a "Tipo-A"

Banana leaves for an umbrella

Setting erosion barriers of sugar cane on a hillside

There is much at risk here due to lack of education. The public schools don't provide the type or quality of education to allow people to improve their lives in their communities. Folks don't know much about their recent history when they vote and elect leaders connected with the genocide during the civil war. It was distressing to learn that the campesinos have accepted government payments in exchange for planting pine trees in their fields (to be used for paper by a Spanish timber company), which in a few years will destroy their capacity to produce crops for food and income. Many have to spend part of the year away from their families working in the city or in plantations on the coast. There are no clear titles to the land - it is believed to be owned by a cooperative but apparently there are no official documents recording this.

The house of one of the host families

Preparing the chicken soup

FUNCEDESCRI is working to improve the health of the people in the region by (re)introducing crops such as amaranto (amaranth), which is much more rich in vitamins than corn. It is attempting to preserve the natural environment and fertility of the soil by promoting organic fertilizers and pest control treatments. It works to provide additional income for the people by developing and marketing products - such as marmalades, essential oils and soaps - sold in the cities, thus redistributing a little of the wealth from the relatively rich to the dirt poor. The pay received for exported crops such as coffee and cardomon (shipped to Saudi Arabia) is not enough to raise the standard of living above the poverty line.

Inspecting a new stove at the center in Campur

FUNCEDESCRI staff and community promoters at lunch

Have several thoughts about how I could help with the work of this organization, but it could take some time to process all these experiences and put together a proposal.

Every valley shall be raised up, every mountain and hill made low;
the rough ground shall become level, the rugged places a plain.

And the glory of the Lord will be revealed, and all mankind together will see it.
For the mouth of the Lord has spoken.

Isaiah 40:4 & 5

written by

cjones on September 29, 2007 from Coban, Guatemala

from the travel blog: so-journ

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