Down the Mayan Coast II: From Bahia Espiritu Santo to Xcalak

Better sailing today and pleasant 80 degree temperatures. However, b y 3:00 o'clock we put on the engine to ensure our safe arrival well before sundown.

The entrance to the Banco Chinchorro is tricky. First, you must find the opening in the reef, then, line the boat up with the lighthouse which is on one of the two small islands inside the reef. Thank goodness for the information that we were able to read in the Rauscher's Sailing Guide. The updates from friends who have been here also helped immensely.

The lighthouse at Banco Chinchorro

Once inside the reef the waves calmed and we were able to turn our minds to preparing a hot meal. But before we could do that we had to clear in with the Mexican Navy, who came along side in a launcha. They were very polite and soon we had satisfied them with the appropriate paperwork.

The young men who boarded us told us that they are stationed in this outpost for 6 to 8 weeks at a time, without television, beer, softdrinks and lack many other modern conveniences. Larger patrol boats leave from here hoping to intercept and stop the drug delivieries along this coast. We wished them good luck and safe passage.

The Mexican Navy Boat stationed at Banco Chinchorro

They reassured us that they were there for our safety and that we could call them anytime, day or night. We were very happy to be in this safe harbour as the rainstorm which had been brewing all day blew in behind us.

The next morning was another early start as we had 40 knotical miles to go to Xcalak, which would be our last port of call in Mexico. The weather did not look promising, but the forecast said that we had the hours required to do the crossing before the next storm would blow through. So, anchors away!

By noon time we knew that the storm was catching us as the waves were already double the size of those we sailed into earlier in the day. 3:30 p.m. found us calling for help to find the entrance to Xcalak. We could not see the 300 foot break in the reef and visibility was so poor that we couldnot line up with the range markers on shore.

The local dive boat rescued us by coming out to the break in the reef and staying where we could see him. Then we simply sailed to him, following his directions into the harbour. Thank You, Alexandro!

With great relief, we followed the crew of Ruby Slippers into the nicest restaurant we had seen in a very long time. The Leaky Palapa is run by a Canadian Chef who really knows how to cook seafood and fish and also how to help her customers relax and have a great time. Her lemon fish sauce was the best I have ever tasted. It's wonderful the things you find in the "back of beyond."

The next day, you would never understand why we had such a problem getting into the harbour. Bob and John used the calm seas to take the dingy to the opening in the reef and plot some waypoints that would ensure that we would not go aground on our return to the deeper waters of the gulf.

At Anchor at Xcalak

The next day at 2:00 p.m. Sarah from Island Girl II and Chuck from Ruby Slippers were off on the bus back to Isla Mujeres. Now we had no crew. Just the same, Belize here we come!

Checking out with the Captiana in Xcalak was definitely and easy process, but as always it cost us a few dollars, but not bad when you consider all the fees you pay to enter and leave a country when you fly!

written by  bobandglennda on March 4, 2009 from Xcalak, Mexico
from the travel blog: Sailing from Florida to Cenral America
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