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Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia

a travel blog by chrischarly


This passage will be our longest one and it will be during our time in SE Asia visiting Malaysia, The Philippines, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, proabaly in this order before flying to Australia towards the end of September. Unfortunately we've run out of time to go to Burma and Vietnam... maybe next time!
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Robbing bastards...

Stoeng Treng, Cambodia


Woke up this morning still drunk from our impromptu piss up at Adam’s bar. What better way to be crossing the border?Then, made our way down for our 8am boat which finally left about 9.15. Once we crossed onto the mainland we were ushered to an office where we were given visa forms and told that the cost of the visa would be $28 if we did ourselves, or, $29 if we gave to the tour company to arrange. The actual price of a visa should be $20 but this border is known for its ‘extras’ that obviously make the officials very rich men. Obviously, we decided we would do it all ourselves, which upset the organiser, meaning that he refused to speak to us from then on, or anyone else for that matter. Hey ho! Finally got on a minibus to the border and went to the Laos departure office, here started the fun….. They requested $2 per passport for the exit stamp. We politely told them ‘No’, and then requested a receipt but to no avail, it’s simple, no $2 no stamp. Robbing bastards! Then when we walked across to the Cambodia side there was a health check point, that seemed random as several people walked past, but obviously they stopped us. They asked us to fill out a little yellow form then asked for a $1, we politely said no. They then asked for yellow fever certificates, which we had at the bottom of our main bags, we fished them out but were told they had expired, they hadn’t as they last 10 years and not 1, so again told them no $1. Then they aked us if we had a gonorrhoea vaccination, do they even exist?! At this point, we told them that under no circumstances were we paying them, (well maybe involving a tad bit of shouting in a less polite way than stated) picked up our bags and walked away, they did not protest. Next stop our visa on arrival, $23 not the $20, but we just argued a little then paid. Then when we went through the checkpoint they requested $2 per passport for a stamp, argued a little then paid $1 as a compromise to get it over with. So we made it through for $26, but pretty sure that $6 was all falling into back pockets. If we want to ever get work whilst travelling we will definitely try and get an immigration job. With the 100’s or maybe 1000’s of people crossing this border each day, they must be very rich men! We then found our bus and it was nice and we soon left for Kratie. When we arrived we checked a few guesthouses and found an ok one for $5 close to everything. We went for a nice walk along the river and had the most amazing fruit Smoothie consisting of banana, pineapple, apple, dragon fruit, avocado, condensed milk and ice, amazing!




permalink written by  chrischarly on August 22, 2011 from Stoeng Treng, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Irawaddy dolphins

Kratie, Cambodia


We spent the morning walking around Krati to see if we could find anyone else to join us to see the Irrawaddy Dolphins in the afternoon, but without any luck, which would’ve helped drop the cost a little. We went regardless though stopping off beforehand to climb 360 steps to the top of a Mountain to see some great views of the Mekong River. When we arrived at the dock to go the boat, we were lucky enough to find Andy, a solo Chinese traveller, so he joined us to save us a whopping $4. We were out in the boat for just over 2 hours and we were lucky enough to see many dolphins during this time and some pretty close. Irrawaddy Dolphins are mainly freshwater dolphins and there are about 70 in this area, with a total of just 200 left in the world, meaning they are seriously endangered and are sadly expected to be extinct within the next 10-20 years. In the morning we put our camera battery on charge to ensure we could take loads of pictures and videos whilst we went out for the morning. Unfortunately we didn’t realise that as soon as the guests leave the guesthouse they switch all the power off in the rooms! So we were ½ way through our trip and the battery run out, just as the dolphins came closer! So upset! Unfortunately the photos we took didn’t come out that great, one due to our limited battery life, and two because they move so fast! But still an amazing afternoon and a great chance to see them before they sadly disappear.



permalink written by  chrischarly on August 23, 2011 from Kratie, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Garden party

Kampong Cham, Cambodia


Got up bright and early (well 7.30am) and had a quick coffee before checking out and making our way to the bus stop heading to Kampong Cham. The bus did surprisingly arrive in Kratie on time, but broke down as soon as it arrived?! But after just ½ an hour’s wait another bus showed up, so as sheep we were promptly ushered onto this bus and straight into the remaining seats at the very back, nice! Shortly into the journey, due to the bumps and eating just before getting on the bus, I started to feel very sick, so Chris playing nurse gave me a nausea tablet and I passed out for the rest of the journey awaking only when we arrived, perfect! Kampong Cham is a bit of a sleepy town, and as we had seen the dolphins yesterday, there wasn’t a great deal to do, but an ideal stop-over to break up the journey to Kep. We found a nice guesthouse easily called Mekong Sunrise that had $4 rooms overlooking the River, and we met up with 4 other travellers, Jo, Johnny, Claire and Neil and enjoyed a few drinks with them in the evening after going to a garden Party for dinner. This is basically a place where they cook spit-roast beef, I know it sounds strange, but it tasted good, and it is a real local thing to eat when in Cambodia. Unfortunately, they tried ripping us off with the bill at the end, charging almost double the price on the menu, which left a slightly bad taste in our mouths after a great meal.

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 24, 2011 from Kampong Cham, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Yummy yummy seafood with Kampot pepper

Phnom Penh, Cambodia


The owners of Mekong Sunrise guesthouse were kind enough to arrange free transport for us to the bus stop, and then we were able to get straight on the bus, easy travelling once again. We took the bus to Phnom Penh then had to wait for 1 ½ hours for the next bus to Kep. It didn’t take long to get to Kep and as Chris had already had a look at places to stay, our life was pretty easy! After chatting nicely to a local on the bus, he spoke to the bus driver on behalf of us at dropped us off at the bottom of the drive to ‘Tree Tops’ and from there just a 700m walk where we got a nice hut with views of the sea for just $5. Perfect.

As well as Kampot, Kep has some amazing seafood so in the evening we gorged ourselves on crab and prawns cooked with green Kampot peppercorns, delicious and very decadent for us backpackers!

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 25, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Exploring Kep

Kep, Cambodia


We decided to explore around Kep today, firstly going to the crab market and then a walk around the coast.

Then we decided to go a bit further afield and as there were 4 of us, it was cheaper to hire a tuk tuk for the day instead of hiring 2 bikes. So after some hard negotiating we were on our way. First stop was to some caves about 30km away from Kep and it was a great disappointment.

As it is rainy season, The Caves are completely flooded, but of course no one was willing to tell this when planning our adventure, especially not the tuk tuk driver, or when paying The Entrance fees when we arrived.

So we could only go just inside The Entrance and even though we said countless times that we didn’t want a guide, 7 children joined us adamant that they would offer their guide services to us.

But I’m sure they are great to look around during the dry season, but during wet season it is a waste of money for both transport and entrance fees. But then again we have seen many caves, so I’m sure we didn’t miss much. After this, we went to a pepper Plantation was which in fact really interesting.

Kampot pepper is really famous and quite possibly the best pepper you can buy and we even got to try some.

Me though, hating anything spicy or very peppery embarrassingly had to spit it out. Then in the evening, back to Kimley’s restaurant for the tasty crab dish again!

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 26, 2011 from Kep, Cambodia
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Hanging out

Kep, Cambodia


Had a nice chill day today hanging out with some other travellers.
Went down into town about 1 1/2 km away, nice walk. But on the way back it was pouring down with rain and as there were 5 of us decided to call a tuk tuk. The price should be 1$ but he quoted $2 so we refused to pay it and walked back in the pouring rain, all of us soaked through, literally. So now we have no dry clothes as we just did all our washing, and they are just as wet as when we first did them. All this for refusing to pay $2 between 5 of us. Such cheap-skates we are, but it was the principal of the matter, you know?



permalink written by  chrischarly on August 27, 2011 from Kep, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Yucky day...

Kep, Cambodia


We woke up and it was still pouring with rain, it didn't stop at all during the night, so everywhere was so muddy and disgusting and our clothes were soaked, so we put on wet clothes and spent the day pretty much waiting for the rain to stop… yucky day…

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 28, 2011 from Kep, Cambodia
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A job...??? WTF...!!!

Kampot, Cambodia


Today we left Kep, our clothes were pretty much dry and we decided it was time to move on and stop eating the most delicious seafood and go back on a budget and the best way to do that would be to leave. So we caught the 1st bus to Kampot. It wasn’t far, just an hour bus journey. Finding accommodation was easy as well, and cheap. There is a whole street with $5 rooms and they were all ok, so we picked the best of a bunch and checked in to Pepper Guesthouse. I was feeling a bit rough today so didn’t feel like doing much, but Chris successfully managed to persuade me to go next door to Blissful Guesthouse for happy hour. From then on, we stayed for 8 hours, ate some Comfort food with REAL Cheddar cheese and our bill grew a bit too much. Chris got chatting to the owners and they discovered our previous experience working in bars etc. and instantly offered us both jobs, and then wouldn’t take ‘No’ for an answer. So even though we went away adamant we wouldn’t work anywhere (except in the Philippines) as we went away to escape work, and for me, especially work in bars or restaurants, here we were agreeing. We are weak people…

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 29, 2011 from Kampot, Cambodia
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Joining the working masses in Cambodia...

Kampot, Cambodia


Well after a night of drinking, we woke up and remembered what we agreed to last night, so thought we better talk it through a little more with alcohol in the system… So we headed next door and met a sober Dick and Ezzer and spoke about what would be required of us if we did decide to work, and we found out that basically we wouldn’t have to do much, so we thought we would give it a go. We could only work for 13 nights as we still want to do a little more exploring, and in return for working, we wouldn’t get paid, but we would get free accommodation, free alcohol, as much as we like (Chris loved this part), free food, as much and whatever we want, free laundry (yay- a break from hand-washing!) and even free cigarettes! So we thought, why not. It’s raining pretty much every day anyway so we are limited to what we can do, so why not have a free 2 weeks! So had a free breakfast and then got ready to start work after some chatting… 4-12pm are our working hours, and tonight it was pretty quiet, complete opposite of last night, so our 1st shift consisted of not a lot of work, a lot of sitting and chatting. Chris being ‘King of the Bar’ in his royal chair behind the bar keeping an eye on the ‘till’ and over-seeing everything (aka nothing) and I just had to take a few orders and take out some food- something I can do with my eyes closed… So a good night, Chris managed to consume about 8 pints and I had a couple of glasses of wine… Think we’ve got it made here! But better not speak too soon, will keep you updated!

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 30, 2011 from Kampot, Cambodia
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Poker Night

Kampot, Cambodia


Went for a stroll around Kampot today. Not a great deal to see, but nice to see some sunshine again! Very hot! Then came back, showered, changed and got ready for our 2nd night’s work. Compared to yesterday it was really busy from 6-10pm, didn’t stop at all! Chris however, is getting quite used to his chair behind the bar and is reaching distance to pretty much anything… hmmm… think I picked the wrong option working out front?!?!.. Then, to top it off, it was ‘Poker Night’ so from 8pm- midnight he played poker and drank beer with a group of other customers, so that was his ‘work’ for the night… Yep, definitely picked the wrong role…

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 31, 2011 from Kampot, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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