Third day in Phnom Phen

My third day already in Cambodia and I feel so much better. It is 3:45 in the afernoon and I’m sitting in T&C café, having passionfruit smoothie in an airconditioned room. Unfortunately, I can’t connect to the wireless network here, I think my laptop is pretty crap in picking up different connections.
I had a real confident booster last night, when I cycled for the first time on my own around the corner to get some credit for my phone. And I survived. It was horrifying at the beginning, the bike is old as well and the brakes a bit slow, but it was possible.

two monchs on the street

When I returned, I saw Alice who told me, that there was a Volunteer Farewell Party in the China House. She drew me instructions and showed me on the map and after Noel and me had dinner together, I headed off. It took me around 25 minutes and I cycled through really rual areas in the dark. There was rubbish on the streets, mouldy fruit and veg and little girls standing on the streets, presenting themselfes to the moto and cardrivers. Then I finally found it and I stayed for an hour or so, horrified aboud the way back. Also I didn’t know anybody ecxept Alice. It was a mixed bunch of people, all nearly finished with their placement in Cambodia. On women found another female volunteer on her placement and they both got married not long ago. I also met Helen, an elderly lady, who also works in Stung Treng, and she offered me to live with her until I have found something on my own. She seems to be very kind and easy going.
The way back was ok, just got a bit scary because the Cambodians are in a celebrating mood at the moment because of King Sihanouk’s birthday and the Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal next week ( Royal Ploughing Ceremony). It is about the planting season, which starts in may. Monks will ask the earth spirits for permission to plough. Then ceremonial furrows are drawn, rice is scattered and offerings are made to the divinities. The most important part of the ceremony is what the Royal Bull chooses when it is offered rice, grain, grass, water and wine. Rice or grain means well, water signifies rain, grass is a sign that crops will be devastated by insects, and wine, that there will be drought.

Over night there was I think a guard, singing all night. This morning, it switched over to music from a radio or so. I had a confidence booster because of last night. I was quit proud that I did it, cyclingwise. So I decided, to explore PP more on my own today, by bike. So I first went to the big Central market (Psar Thmei). It was amazing. They sell propably everything there, mostly clothes and juwellery. I finally found some postcards and then there was a little girl, she sold T-shirts and I got some. I also bought fresh fruit and veg from the people outside the market. It then started to pour down with rain, so I sat a bit and practised my Khmer from a book, asking for some directions.

sitting and wait for the rain to stop

After the rain slowed down, I cycled to the National Museum of Cambodia.

the national museum

There I saw a collection of sculpure, relics and arefacts, dating from prehistoric times to present. So lots of Buddas and Vishnus and Krishnas. I probably earned myself some mertit too, because I was animated to take a yasmine flower and give it to Budda and put some money next to it.

national museum

This collection of sculptures had to be abandoned in 1975 when the city was emptied by the Khmer Rouge, it was subsequently looted and the museum’s director murdered. By 1979, when the population returned, the roof had collapsed and the galleries and courtyard had succumbed to the advances of nature- for a time the museum had to battle constantly to protect its ezhibits from the guano produced by the millions of
bats (!) which had colonized the roof, these were finally driven out in 2002. Now it is beautiful and very impressive.

Vishna or Krishna?

I then went to the rather big Royal Palace complex opposive the Mekong Riverbank.

at the Mekong riverside

I could’t see a way in, so I stayed for a while at the river. It looked so big to me and long. There were a few fisherboats on there, also one boat, that looked as if it was half sunken already.

how does this boat swim?

Little children were running after little birds with a long thin stick, maybe to catch and sell them? A man on crutches came to me and showed me his one half leg and wanted some money. I gave him a dragonfruit and an apple. Then an older poor looking women came and I gave her fruit. I didn’t have money at that point myself. Then I felt really hot and cycled back, direction VSO office, cheet psah pencil. On the way I couldn’t resist and went into an airconditioned bar and had some rice with veg. There I cooled down nicely.

Today I feel like, yes, I’m in Cambodia, and? It feels more normal now. I look around, see only asien faces and think, cool. I like it here. Although it is a struggle, I must admit. Life is completely different here. Each little thing is a new challenge, but they can be overcome. For example, this morning. No drinking water left. So I had to boil a big pot of water after finding out how the gascontainer works, because it didn’t work at the beginning. This boiled water then goes into a , like a terracotta stone pot in a plastic bucket, to get filtered. And then you can drink it. But I don’t mind, I have the time. Yesterday, I was sitting talking to somebody for a long time, it was Noel, and her English is not so good. Usually I get unpatient at some point. But here, it just flows. Time passes not so quickly here somehow.

a typical street

Another thing I found out today, it must be rubbish day, and they collect it while usually a man goes along on a sreet with a little like a waggon ( handwagen in German) pulling behind him. That people know that he’s there, he makes noises with a little horn in his hand.
Women sell little spiced mussels or snails on the street, haven’t tried yet, not brave enough yet. They carry them on their head in a big flat basket.
I saw 6 people sitting all together on a motorbike, mostly children. They nearly fell off.
Women and men look generally beautiful.
I kind of get to know now how to pay in Dollar and how to pay in Riel. They don’t have coints, only notes.

Tomorrow I think I take a closer look at Wat Phnom, one of PP’s most important shrines dedicated to Daun Penh, the legendary lady who gave her name to the capital.

I’ll also propably go and see the Toul Sieng Genocide Museum, which was the notorious Khmer Rouge prison, through whose gates more than thirteen thousand people passed to their death. It was a High school once, and then used as detention, interrogation and torture centre. Apperently it’s very hard to look at, but I think I’ve seen bits of it in my Cambodia DVD, so I’m a little bit prepared.

a fruit tree and my bike

Third day in Phnom Phen

a travel blog by katja-horsch

third day in Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, Cambodia