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West Coast Mission: Day 12
Exmouth
,
Australia
3 Islands Marine Charters
When I were but a wee bairn, much longer ago than I'd care to let on (narrows eyes at younger but by no means better looking friends) I liked reading books about dinosaurs and animals and sea creatures and stuff. I remember a particular photo in a book and the paragraph of text next to it. I don't remember the name of the book, just this segment, it was about a quarter of the page and it was a photo of a whale shark next to a diver. I even remember what some of the text said, it mentioned that an adult whale shark could easily fit two adult humans in its mouth but they were harmless filter feeders, eating only plankton and krill.
And that's when I decided I wanted to swim with them.
About 20 years later and I was sat at a computer in a hostel in Echuca, typing "whale shark australia" into Google and 3 Islands Marine Charters came up along with numerous other companies that ran tours to snorkel with the world's largest fish at Ningaloo Reef, Exmouth. The best time to go was May, I was meant to be in New South Wales the following May and Emma didn't want to budge on that. Fortunately we split up a couple of months later and it was sealed; I was going to be in Exmouth in May 2007 and I was going to swim with whale sharks.
I was chuffed to pieces when the others decided they were going to do this with me, after all its not cheap and we were all on a budget, I'd been budgeting for this for months and so had Loody since I'd told her about it in Perth. It was kinda sprung on the others but they were up for it.
This was going to be amazing.
Just The Five Of Us
We were picked up from the campsite at 7.30am by Andy, the videographer, who greeted us with the words, "You're a lucky lot aren't you, getting a private charter!" It was only going to be us, the crew and enough food to feed a small army on board today. Andy had said to the lass who prepared the food that there were 5 of us, not 15. She said we'd looked hungry :) Fuck I love my life.
Snorkelling
Bless Andy, he tried to liven us up on the bus journey to the boat. He's actually quite funny once it's not 7.30 anymore and you've been fed but until then his enthusiasm and banter was more likely to get him maimed or killed. We stopped to pick up Kelly, the divemaster whos job it was to spot the whale sharks once we were in the water and to make sure we knew where it was so we could swim with it. That was the eye candy for the day sorted then.
We got to the little boat and met Noz, a shy bloke who would be driving the safety boat (do you drive boats? I don't even know) which would pick us out of the water if we were in trouble or too tired to swim. We met Richard, the skipper and the guy who owns the company once we got to the big boat and then we were off to a little snorkel site.
I don't have anything witty or clever to say about today, it was just awesome. We spent the morning snorkelling and eating before the spotter planes radioed in that a shark had been seen.
I'd researched these tours ages ago and read all kinds of testimonies. You share the shark with about 4 other boats and only 10 people are allowed in the water at a time. You can usually fit about 20 people on a boat so I was prepared for the fact that we might only get a few minutes with one shark and thats it and I'd made sure the others knew this too.
We got in the water with 6 sharks.
Six!!
Some people don't even get one and we got six!
It's amazing, you can't describe the feeling, you launch yourself into the water and stick your head under looking for it then the first thing you see is this massive gob coming towards you and your heart leaps into your mouth closely followed by the rest of your internal organs.
Then you realise you should probably get out of its way on account of it being about 10 metres long and thus a lot bigger than you. The excitement never wears off.
Later, as we headed back about 30 dolphins swam alongside the boat. We'd been stuffed full of good food, had a once in a lifetime day out in the water and I'd fulfilled a lifetime ambition.
How fucking perfect could this day get?
I promptly tripped over the edge of the little boat as we pulled up to shore and ended up face down on the shore line.
I knew Abi and Dave were doing the West Coast, I just didn't know where they were on account of the fact we'd never been in range at the same time, we just kept picking up voicemails and texts from each other. When we got back from the trip there was a note at our site, they'd checked into the campsite and recognised my car. Kliff and Neil came round later an all and we made up for the lack of goon the night before until I pulled my usual passing out trick.
Oh come on, its not like no one knows what happens when I'm allowed to lie down.
PERTH CREW: Loody, Darragh, Kliff, Neil, Me, Becky, Dave And Abi
written by
Koala Bear
on May 13, 2007
from
Exmouth
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
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Big Things #22
Exmouth
,
Australia
This beast is on the road between
Coral Bay
and
Exmouth
and I think there is actually a reason for it being there, as in the building behind it has something to do with prawns. Not sure what, though.
Yet Another Big Prawn
Still, I reckon the one in
Ballina
would kick this ones arse in a fight.
written by
Koala Bear
on May 12, 2007
from
Exmouth
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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West Coast Mission: Day 13
Rocklea
,
Australia
We'd decided to head inland after
Exmouth
to check out
Karijini National Park
. It's somewhere around 700km to Tom Price, the nearest town to Karijini so we just did it in two trips and spent tonight at a free camp.
I woke up to Becky and Craig hurridly packing and asked what was going on, it wasn't like Becky to be up early, she usually needed gentle coaxing and usually from a distance with a cup of tea, full body armour and a big stick.
Becky: We have to leave. Now.
Me: Why?
I didn't recall being that loud last night.
Becky: We robbed the combi...
Me: (blinks) You did what now??
We'd found an orange VW camper abandoned on the side of the road and Becky wanted the badge off the front of it so we'd duly rocked up and taken it. This apparently wasn't enough, we'd managed to persuade her not to steal the actual van on account of her not being able to steer a fucking paddleboat, let alone a vehicle but she wanted the contents and after I'd passed out they'd all decided they wanted the contents too. They got chairs, clothes, cushions and Darragh got himself a hammock.
Oops!
The rest of the day was uneventful, the highlight being watching Darragh hang his new hammock and promptly fall through it.
written by
Koala Bear
on May 14, 2007
from
Rocklea
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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West Coast Mission: Day 14
Tom Price
,
Australia
We wanted a full day in Karijini so we'd decided to spend tonight at a free camp near Tom Price and get an early start on the park the next day. The trouble was we didn't know how to spend today but I'd developed a habit of handing my map book and a highlighter to other travellers who'd been where we were going and someone had highlighted Hammersley Gorge so we stocked up on supplies and headed there for the afternoon armed with a bag of goon, an iPod and some speakers.
Hammersley Gorge is wicked, its a perfect place to disturb the peace. I have to admit, the water is a wee bit chilly but once you've apologised in advance for potentially knocking people out with your nipples you can relax and just enjoy the tunes, the goon and the company.
Hammersley Gorge
More Gorge Action
Having A Dip
Goon In The Gorge
By the time we got off the unsealed road that lead away from the gorge it was dark and I couldn't find the first free site option so we headed to a place called Halfway Bridge where I circled round a tree. I realised the car wasn't actually going anywhere and there was a somewhat disconcerting grinding noise.
That would be the six large rocks in a ditch I'd managed to drive into then. There was a 4WD and a caravan on another corner of the site so we figured that if it came to it maybe they'd tow us out after most of the rocks had been pulled out. We sent Craig over to talk to the guy with the words, "Go on, you're Australian, it'll sound better coming from you."
It didn't. The guy was an arse. We managed to get the rocks out the next day anyway and the Falcon had enough power to pull itself out.
written by
Koala Bear
on May 15, 2007
from
Tom Price
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
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West Coast Mission: Day 15
Auski Roadhouse
,
Australia
Karijini
National Park
is only good if you like that sort of thing. Y'know, like stunning views and refreshing water holes and beautiful waterfalls and the like. We only spent a day here though, we wished we could have stayed longer but we were on a deadline for Karratha.
And and and! Guess what? You won't guess so I'll tell ya. Just as we were heading to the first gorge we bumped into the Get Away team (Aussie holiday show sort of thing). Now this would be infinitely more exciting if a) I watched TV at all, b) I'd seen Get Away and c) if I could remember the name of the presenter guy who I had my photo taken with. It's on Becky's camera, but. I need to get it off her.
But still, mingling with celebrities, us. We watched as they maneuvered $1000's worth of equipment through freezing water on lilos before moving onto the next place.
There's not much to actually say, it's one of those Had To Be There things. You basically navigate your way through the park's unsealed road, stopping at gorges for a swim and lookouts for oohing and ahhing. We didn't have time for any of the walks but to be fair movement never really suited us. Fortescue Falls were amazing an all, we spent quite a bit of time there until we realised there were tiny leeches in the falls. Nice. A quick dip and a blood transfusion, you just don't get that down the local swimming pool do ya.
Freshening Up
Gotta Love Waterfalls
That night we stayed at Auski Roadhouse (Munjina) for camping, they gave us a powered site for the price of an unpowered one. Luxury! What could we use it for?
A quick inventory of all our Stuff With Plugs later and we whipped out Becky's hair straighteners and began ironing the curls out of Darragh's hair. Yeah, I know Darragh hasn't got curly hair.
Making The Most Of Having Power
Not on his head anyway.
written by
Koala Bear
on May 16, 2007
from
Auski Roadhouse
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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and
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West Coast Mission: Day 16
Karratha
,
Australia
Wittenoom is officially abandoned on account of the "asbestos fibres prevalent in the air." I say officially abandoned, try telling that to the 25 people who still live there, firmly denying that the mining of blue asbestos in years gone by would pose any threat to them or tourists. My fold out maps advised against going anywhere near the place and the Lonely Planet says if you go there you might want to wind your windows up.
Well how are you meant to buy souvenirs without getting out of the car?
Wittenoom Guest House
Wittenoom Gem Shop
It was on the way anyway so we pulled in, did a quick circuit and took a few deep breaths before heading north to Karratha with newly acquired stickers that read, "I Went To Wittenoom And Lived."
I'll remember this moment in roughly 10 to 15 years when my lungs fall out.
There are two roads to Karratha from Auski Roadhouse, one of them is about 400km along the tarmac and the other is more direct, about 300km along a slightly corrugated unsealed road. We took the dirt.
What a boring fucking road! All you want to do is read a book or something but you can't on account of the whole Having To Drive thing. There's no let up in the monotony, we probably saw about 3 other vehicles the entire way plus the corrugations don't make it the most pleasant drive ever. I wished I still had my clit hood pierced, at least then I could have driven the road with a smile on my face.
300km Of This
Eating My Dust
Apart from a minor incident in the Millstream National Park when I nearly span off the road after lecturing Craig on the dangers of not wearing a seatbelt we rocked up to Karratha in once piece where we'd be spending a couple of nights. Craig's sister Julie lives here, he hardly gets to see her so we chilled at their house which was awesome, we got fed and got to sleep inside and had proper showers and did all kinds of exciting things such as laundry. I hadn't done laundry since Albany.
My clothes practically walked to the washer.
written by
Koala Bear
on May 17, 2007
from
Karratha
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
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West Coast Mission: Day 17
Karratha
,
Australia
Today was cool, we got to relax as Julie and her fella took us out in their troopy and gave us a guided tour of Karratha,
Dampier
and
Cossack
, The Pilbarra's first town which is now abandoned. It was nice just to kick back and let some one else decide where to go.
Back In *Shudders* Civilisation
The First Town In The Pilbarra
Cossack Jail
Our First Croc Warning Sign
Julie just kept on knocking up amazing meals, we had a full cooked brekky both mornings we woke up there and wicked dinners. Proper spoilt, we were.
I wasn't on form here though, I'd been having trouble staying asleep the past few nights which fucks me up. I need my sleep or people aside from me start to suffer so I was in bed pretty early tonight while the others had a few drinks and played some cards.
I'd be fresh and ready the next morning, right?
...Right?
written by
Koala Bear
on May 18, 2007
from
Karratha
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
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West Coast Mission: Day 18
Eighty Mile Beach
,
Australia
Despite the copious amounts of sleep I got, leaving Karratha proved more difficult that expected on account of the minor car accident I was involved in.
It was my fault, I pulled out when I shouldn't have, I didn't see the girl's car because I couldn't see out of my back window on account of all the swags and bags and general crap and Craig's head was blocking my side window. But still, it was my fault and she went into the side of me. Fortunately the Falcon is the closest thing you can get to a tank without it actually being a tank so despite the almighty crashing noise that occurred there's practically no damage to my car and no one was hurt at all. Shaken, but not hurt.
Her car however got slightly twisted, I'm insured though so it only cost my excess, $400, and in the words of the girl from AAMI, "It's out of your hands, we'll deal with everything from here on in."
Fuck I love AAMI.
We were going to get to Broome in two parts staying at a free camp tonight. We drove until it was dark, marvelling at the pretty glow of the bush fire up ahead. It was a big fire. Biiiiig fire. We got closer and closer until we got to Pardoo Roadhouse, the fire was in a paddock just over the road. We pulled into to servo and I jumped out for a chat with a guy who was sat on the step of the shop smoking a cigarette.
Blurry Bush Fire Pic
Me: Hiya mate, whats the go with that big fire over there?
Bloke: (shrugs) Guess someones having a big BBQ.
Me: Riiiight. Should we go and join 'em?
Bloke: I reckon. Could probably fit a fair few snags on there.
He took one last drag on his fag and idly flicked the butt towards the bowser.
Bloke: As long as it doesn't come over here it should be right.
I retreated to the safety of the shop where there were toilets and pies and maybe people who shared my concern over naked flames near petrol pumps.
I asked the lass behind the counter if she thought the fire would spread.
Lass: (shrugs) Well its been there two days.
Me: K. Soooo you reckon its safe to camp round here tonight?
Lass: Meh... Should be.
Despite her words of comfort we decided to keep on driving a further 80 or so kms to 80 Mile Beach and a free camp near there where we were attacked by moths intent on drinking all our goon.
Hey man, fuck with me if you gotta but leave my goon out of it yeah?
written by
Koala Bear
on May 19, 2007
from
Eighty Mile Beach
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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and
WestCoast
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West Coast Mission: Day 19
Broome
,
Australia
This is the first sign you see as you enter
Broome
.
Dammit!
Oh what, like they couldn't have told us this sooner?
Like at the last fucking bottle shop maybe?!
written by
Koala Bear
on May 20, 2007
from
Broome
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
RoadTrip
and
WestCoast
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West Coast Mission: Day 10
Minilya
,
Austria
Not the most eventful day today, we figured we deserved a break from Too Much Driving so we checked out the nearby snorkeling at Quobba Point as previously advised. It was so worth the $11 we were brutally forced to part with the night before.
The photos seriously don't do it justice.
We chilled here for the morning before heading to a free camp not too far from
Coral Bay
because we deserved another relaxing day snorkeling and sunbathing tomorrow.
Snorkelling At Quobba Point
Killing Time
Well if we were gonna treat us who the fuck else was?
written by
Koala Bear
on May 11, 2007
from
Minilya
,
Austria
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
RoadTrip
,
LovinIt
and
WestCoast
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