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Return To The Alice: Day 1
Douglas-Daly
,
Australia
Left Darwin: 24/08/07
Arrived Alice Springs: 27/08/07
Nothing starts a road trip like watching a man called Kingsley taunting one of the world's most dangerous creatures with a lump of meat hanging off a stick. Krystal had won a free ticket at The Vic to one of the Jumping Crocodile cruises and she gave it to me so I duly rocked up because free things are one of my favourite things in the world.
Herrrrre Croccy Croccy Croccy
Fishing For Crocs
The Closest I'll Ever Get To A Full Grown Saltie With My Limbs Intact
Once there, they lead you onto a large, comfortable boat very well suited to cruising up a saltwater croc infested river... then they lead you right through the other side onto a vessel resembling something you'd pack sardines into. It's an unnerving sensation sitting in this tin can as huge salties swim up to it, you can feel yourself slowly slipping down the food chain.
So it was gone 4pm by the time I got my arse properly into gear to head down to Alice, I was thinking about heading through Kakadu National Park but after speaking to a couple of locals I didn't bother (Litchfield do, Kakadont) because I don't have a 4x4. Usually I laugh in the face of 4WD recommended and take the Falcon anyway but I generally reserve those little adventures for when I'm in the company of People Who Can Change Tyres. So yeah, I didn't bother with Kakadu, I was thinking about maybe spending the night at Litchfield but figured I should probably at least try and get further than 90 minutes from Darwin. I ended up at Douglas Hot Springs just as the sun had set.
Douglas Hot River
Travelling this kind of distance alone is new for me but Alice was a spur of the moment decision and Kliff wanted to go back to Broome. That was a hard goodbye, I've been in the same town as Kliff pretty much constantly since we met in Melbourne, he's one of my best mates over here and a mate for life, we've done some awesome things and been to some wicked places together from the Great Ocean Road to crossing the Nullabor. He'll be leaving the country in October so that was the last time I'll see him, in Australia anyway.
I usually eat quite well on the road on account of the fact I travel with people who crave strange and alien things such as Nutrients and Proper Meals With Ingredients. Left to fend for myself and I only eat because if I don't I'll fall over and even then its stuff out of packets and tins with the nutritional value of a spanner.
Another thing about travelling alone is the positive head space. Yeah, there's head space at the farm but its a shit situation, you can't sort anything out in your mind because you're too busy being miserable but just kicking back under the moonlight with a nice cup of tea and having time to properly think is invaluable.
And just so you know, mum; I camped in National Parks all the way down where there is little or no risk of abduction by a white ute driving sociopath.
written by
Koala Bear
on August 24, 2007
from
Douglas-Daly
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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LovinIt
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Return To The Alice: Day 3
Tennant Creek
,
Australia
Most road trips in
Australia
involve copious amounts of driving distances incomprehensible to anyone whos never left the UK. Not even a fortnights holiday in
Spain
or a trip around France can prepare you for the sheer amount of kilometres you can drive without seeing anything. Today was Big Drive day, I wasn't intending to make it all the way to the Devil's Marbles tonight because there were a couple more hot springs I wanted to frolic in;
Katherine
Hot Springs and
Mataranka
Thermal Pool.
Katherine Hot (More Like Warmish) Springs
Mataranka; Old Men In Speedos
Katherine
Hot Springs? Warmish springs more like. Not good for first thing in the morning, I'd been spoilt by
Douglas
River so I didn't last more than 20 minutes in there. Next stop was
Mataranka
, probably the more famous one. A resort backs onto it and the pool can apparently get proper busy. Again, it aint that hot and the sight of old men in Speedos is possibly one of the most traumatic experiences in the world.
I lasted 10 minutes.
Well It Was Hotter Than Katherine Hot Springs Anyways
Smokin'
So yeah, I made it to the Devil's Marbles in plenty of time for sunset which, as regular readers will know, is the best time to view Rocks With Names in the absence of alcohol. It was a long drive with the most interesting thing being the fire I drove through, it was so big the smoke blocked out the sun making it look like England on a winters day. Ok, make that any day. I think the press studs on the back pockets of my shorts are permanently imprinted onto my arse an all.
written by
Koala Bear
on August 26, 2007
from
Tennant Creek
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 1
Cape Tribulation
,
Australia
Cape Trib: 26/10/07
To Brisbane: 20/11/07
It is compulsory whilst backpacking Australia to Do The East Coast or they'll revoke your backpacker card and you won't be able to bulk buy goon and noodles. Everyone does this coast, a lot of people only do this coast which is a damn shame because Western Australia is the best place in the world. I have to admit, I wasn't overly enthusiastic about it, I wanted to do it though because I knew I'd regret it if I didn't and anyway, I needed to get to a city where I could get work so I might as well do it in style so I duly borrowed £2000 (yep, that's pounds not dollars, Exchange Rate fans) off Mum and Dad. On account of the fact I'd rather chew my own fingers off than advertise for travel companions again and I hadn't met anyone who was leaving at the same time as me, I headed back up to Cape Tribulation all on my lonesome.
Today I was back out on the reef without several litres of goon sloshing around my veins and after a proper nights sleep. Odyssey H2O wasn't going out so I ended up on Rum Runner IX which is a bit slower and looks better although I couldn't help wondering what happened to the other eight. The conditions were loads calmer and the weather was awesome as well which helped, as did dosing myself up on seasick pills so I managed to spend the entire trip vertical as opposed to horizontal or bent over the side. Yay me.
Rum Runner IX
It was an incredible day. For a start it was only me doing an intro dive so it was just me and the instructor floating around the reef looking at pretty things, the first time we were down for nearly an hour. The Mackay Reef itself is indescribable, after lunch we moved a bit so we could snorkel something called The Wall which is literally an 18 metre wall of coral and because visibility was about 25 metres that day we saw everything.
Yes Actually, That IS The Great Barrier Reef
When I went back down for a second intro dive, Fabien grabbed my arm and pulled me down to a cave where he'd found a sleeping reef shark then proceeded to wake it up. Now normally I'd be against waking something up with that many pointy teeth, I know how evil I can be when I'm woken up but I was still in tourist mode which meant all common sense had been left in my backpack at PK's Jungle Village so we duly pissed it off further by following it around the reef and staring at it while it tried to get back to sleep in another cave.
Shark!
Its no bloody wonder sharks bite people sometimes.
written by
Koala Bear
on October 26, 2007
from
Cape Tribulation
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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and
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 2
Mission Beach
,
Australia
I spent a couple of nights up in Cape Trib at PK's because they let you work for 4 hours a day and in return you get three meals a day that don't come out of a packet with "Noodles" written on it and a bed for the night. I could easily stay there for a long long time if it wasn't so fucking humid, I just can't get used to being damp all the time, I need to see a point in showering and as scummy as I can be sometimes not even I consider mouldy clothes to be an acceptable fashion statement so I headed back south, spent a night in Port Douglas to visit my mate Curly (who I know from the MCG in Broome) then drove to Mission Beach which is apparently the place in Australia to throw yourself out of a perfectly good plane with a man strapped to your back.
WHOOOOOOOOO.....
I checked into Scotty's backpackers and idly picked up a skydiving leaflet. Reception were on me instantly telling me all about prices, heights, discounts and roughly 20 seconds later I was stood there, credit card in hand, booked onto a 14000ft jump at 4:30pm. It was now 12:30pm. I went to my room to spend the ensuing 4 hours panicking and wondering if I should call my family to let them know my mortal remains would be available for viewing at various locations around Mission Beach.
.....HOOOOOOO!!!!
Everyone staying at Scotty's has either thrown themselves out of a plane or is about to, there's always someone watching their jump DVD on the TVs and I didn't meet a single person who didn't love it which calmed me down so by the time I was on the plane I was loving it. I thought I'd shit myself when they sat me on the edge but I didn't and its not like you have any choice in the matter, you have a man attached to you who's intent on jumping out of that plane and you're going with him.
That split second when you go over the edge and see the ground coming towards you is unsurpassed by anything you will ever experience. I don't think I'm able to put it into words but I'll try.
clears throat*
WHEEEAAGGGGHHHHOOHHHHHHHHWAAAAAAAAAFUUUCCCCCCKKKKKYEEEEAAAAAAHHHHH!!!
Oh fuck it, I've never had a brilliant grasp of the English language, I'm from Stockport for fucks sake.
Since when you get to Mission Beach you watch a million skydive videos you're very aware of the camera during your 60 second free fall, terminal velocity doesn't make an attractive girl what with bingo wings that you could take a small country out with. You'll notice the grimace like grin in the fourth thumbnail above, designed to tighten the flesh on your face thus ensuring you don't knock the guy out in charge of pulling the parachute cord and thus keeping you intact with your flappy jowls.
Mission Beach is an amazing drop zone, on one side you have the rainforest and on the other you have the ocean. After the cord had been pulled and the parachute was open (and watching the DVD back, I'm glad I didn't realise how long it took for the 'chute to spread out and slow us down!) John, the only man to ever strap me up, said, "So, this is the view from my office window." And what a fucking beautiful view. My habit of putting myself in high places because I think it might be pretty at the top is well documented but this tops everything I've ever seen in Australia, I was the second person out of the plane and the last to land on the beach, I had an amazing float down to the ground, just taking in the views and enjoying being obscenely high up without a large metal tube with wings. If I had money this could get addictive.
That night I chilled at the hostel with a couple of girls from Wigan, Alison and Nat. They weren't in Oz for long, just a 3 week holiday doing the East Coast. I introduced them to the joy that is goon thus relieving Nat of unnecessary braincells and some stomach lining.
Alison And Nat And A Shiny Bag Of Joy
written by
Koala Bear
on October 30, 2007
from
Mission Beach
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
EastCoast
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 3
Mission Beach
,
Australia
An essential part of recovering from a goon hangover is lying on the floor and groaning, this is helped if you actually have someone to groan at so it was a good job Irma rocked up to join me on the Obligatory East Coast Adventure. We spent the day doing the only other thing you can do in
Mission
Beach apart from skydive; Go to the beach and watch skydivers.
Hangover Cure
Watching Skydivers
I vowed for the 436th time to never drink again.
written by
Koala Bear
on October 31, 2007
from
Mission Beach
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
EastCoast
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 4
Townsville
,
Australia
So today was mine and Irma's first day on the road together, up until now we'd only hung out at Toddy's in Alice or our respective hostels in
Cairns
. Apart from that brief period I travelled with Emma I hadn't travelled with someone who was a bit more than a mate before. So this could be interesting.
Especially as neither of us can read maps.
Some Random Falls
My New (Albeit Temporary) Woman Thing
We headed to
Townsville
via some pretty waterfalls, one of them being Wallaman Falls, the longest single drop waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere. Well you'd think they'd put it a bit bloody closer then wouldn't you instead of at the top of a big winding road up a mountain, they don't half like to make you work for your pretty things in
Australia
. Its the kind of distance where you expect someone to have put the kettle on and set up a camp bed for you for the night but not this time, we did the obligatory ooh ahh thing and drove back down.
Wallaman Falls: Really Fucking Long
And then it was onto our destination for the night. We rocked up just before 5pm and began the tedious task of trying to find somewhere to live. We pulled over and I called Globetrotters Backpackers to see if they had beds. They did and the following conversation ensued:
Bloke: Ok so when will you be here?
Me: Well we're in
Townsville
now so it's just a case of finding Palmer Street.
Bloke:Where are you now?
Me: On
Walker
Street. I'm... erm...
looks around and sees this:*
Imaginary Water Tank
Me: I'm looking at a big water tank thing on a hill with a big green frog on it.
Pause.
Bloke: Have you taken something??
Ahh, first impressions. I ended up taking that photo to prove to the bloke that I wasn't clinically insane, at least not on a discernible level. You should have seen his face when he first saw me and I tried to explain that there was a big green frog as well as some Nemo fish and a blue butterfly. He asked me if there were any little green spacemen as well.
Funny cunt.
written by
Koala Bear
on November 1, 2007
from
Townsville
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 5
Townsville
,
Australia
Townsville At Night...
...Aaaand In The Day
Ok so
Townsville
. Its very nice but at the end of the day there's fuck all to do but gaze wistfully over at Magentic Island then proceed to book a trip there. It's also a Proper Town, more so than
Cairns
.
Cairns
is still very touristy, you can get away with lounging around the lagoon in the middle of town in your swimwear and you can still wander the streets in bare feet and a silly hat clutching your souvenir boomerang and toy koala.
Townsville
makes you want to buy hair gel and do laundry.
You WILL Have Your Photo Taken
Random Waterfally Thing In Townsville
written by
Koala Bear
on November 2, 2007
from
Townsville
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
EastCoast
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 6
Magnetic Island
,
Australia
At the time we were here, X Base were doing a deal where you give them $79 and it'll get you a return ferry to Magnetic Island plus 2 nights in the hostel, one cooked breakfast and an hours kayaking. I've never been a fan of Base hostels, they're all quite big and impersonal but this one kind of redeems itself, its slap bang on the beach and... erm... that's it really. You still can't take your own grog because they have a bar but hey, have a look at why you wouldn't care for a couple of nights.
X Base As Seen From The Ocean
The View from Our Dorm Room
Pretty isn't it? After we'd attempted to go sea kayaking, given up and just drifted for a bit we spent the first day just chilling and deciding what to do the next day and we had our first
Battle
; Lesbian Beach Wrestling. Yeah I won, I kicked her Dutch arse into the sand. Hell yeah.
Drifting
Irma Does Kayaking. Tries To, Anyway.
does a little dance*
And I'll continue to remind her of this victory every time she wins me in a fight ever.
written by
Koala Bear
on November 3, 2007
from
Magnetic Island
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
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,
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and
EastCoast
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 7
Magnetic Island
,
Australia
Yeah I Got A Moke
There are a few ways to get around Magnetic Island. You can (shudders) bus it, you can rent a scooter and spend the day looking like a big puff or you can rent a Moke and spend the day being laughed at because you're used to driving an automatic now and not only do you have to remember to change gear because the car won't do it for you, 3rd gear keeps evading you. Mokes are so uncool they're fucking cool. I'd never heard of them until Alice Springs when Wendy who runs Toddy's went on a Moke convoy to Uluru and ever since then I'd wanted a go in one. They're really cheap to rent an all, we picked one up from Magnetic Moke for about $69 for 24 hours including 60 free kilometres which is enough to get you around. It's Magnetic Island for fucks sake, you can stand on one side and spit to the other. Don't, though. That'd be disgusting.
We'd already decided that we wanted to rent jetskis which is something you can do up at Horseshoe Bay which, from what I can gather, passes as the bustling hub of the island. They're not overly cheap to rent but you rent the jetski, its not per person and you can put two people on one. But then you wouldn't be able to race and where's the fun in that?
Jet Skiiiiiii!
We opted for one each for half an hour and proceeded to tear up the ocean and you know what? You really can't tip them. I know, I tried. You can get up to 50mph on them (I think that's about 80kph?) but you're not allowed to get too close to each other. Me and Irma raced anyway and maybe she won most races, y'know, it's hard to tell an stuff what with us being so far away from each other and not really knowing where the finish line was and stuff and anyway I kicked her arse on the beach ok? Yeah. Ha.
On A Mokey Mission
Irma About To Get Her Arse Kicked By Me
After the jetskiing we bumped into some people we'd met at Mission Beach and went on one of the island's koala spotting walks. I was very nearly over koalas but I'd not seen them in the wild yet so we parked the Moke next to a million others at Forts Walk and wandered up to check out the furry little critters. We spotted loads of them, some of them even moved thus proving that koalas are real and not some great Australian hoax designed to lure tourists into the country.
Cute, Cuddly And Very Fucking Lazy
Not A Myth After All
Posing With The Koalas
View From The Top Of Forts Walk
It was around this time I remembered I'd left two gas bottles in my car in direct sunlight for three days. Nothing ends a holiday like thinking you might have blown your car up.
written by
Koala Bear
on November 4, 2007
from
Magnetic Island
,
Australia
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
RoadTrip
,
LovinIt
and
EastCoast
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Obligatory East Coast Adventure: Day 8
Airlie Beach
,
Austria
Having thankfully returned to an intact vehicle as opposed to a smouldering patch of concrete we left
Townsville
and headed south, our next destination being
Airlie Beach
which is big and shiny and expensive. Its totally buzzing if you have the cash to drink but we didn't. We met up with a mate of mine, Brendan who I know from Alice to
Adelaide
and also
Broome
and had a few drinks with him then just spent the next day chilling and deciding which Whitsundays tour to book.
Power Napping
It's A Hard Life, Being A Passenger
written by
Koala Bear
on November 5, 2007
from
Airlie Beach
,
Austria
from the travel blog:
Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged
RoadTrip
,
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and
EastCoast
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