Many say that the most overwhelming first experience of Delhi is the people. For me it was the beaurocracy.
Getting through customs took me an hour and as I went through to baggage collection I looked back at hundreds of tourists with anxious faces. They new they were going to be there for a long time.

It was another hour before my bag came through the hole in the wall. I had time to look around and what I saw was what I expected to see. the airport of a third world country that had seen no maintainence for a long time and a smell that was at once familiar and lingered intentensely .

I took my pack to the exit and started looking for my taxi guy. The residency that I was staying at provided this service and I am so grateful that they did. I walked through the sea of taxi drivers holding cards and suddenly saw my name. THe driver was more relieved than I was and shook my hand warmly.

He began a conversation with me in what he thought was english. I just talked back and nodded. He took my pack and off we went through what seemed like thousands of people standing around looking like they were waiting.

We made our way onto the street and the first thing I saw were broken down taxis. hundreds of them, beaten up and coughing and spluttering in a chaotic chant.

My first sensory experience was the thick smell of incense, smog and rotting.
Delhi is also dimly lit.
I was overwhelmed by my first encounter with Delhi and I will it fondly for the rest of my life.
My taxi driver kept walking and talking as we came to a tunnel.

Hundreds of beggars that lined the tunnel were wailing for help. "No problem" my driver kept saying. We reached the end of the tunnel and into a car park where this time thousands of vehicles were loading luggage and people onto their cars roof racks. It was chaos. I was enthralled.

We finally got to his taxi and the disappointment on my face must have confused him. His taxi was a newish model Daihatsu. I was expecting a beat up wreck.
"I'll take a ride in one before I leave" I said to myself.
We drove.

There are no road rules in India. If anything got in the way, an old truck or a three wheeler we just swerved around them. All the trucks had "Stop" and "blow your horn" written on the back of them. In India red lights signal an increase in speed.
The streets were full. People, cows and dirt.
We came to a set of big gates at Global Arts Village and with a toot of his horn my taxi driver was admitted by a man dressed as half security guard half Punjaby.

We got out beyond the gate and I was led by both the security guard and the driver through the dark grounds of the village to my room.

They let themselves into my room and had a long look around. I let them have this moment. It must be rare.
I shook their hands, thanked them and off they went.

I was exhausted and I slept that morning in my room with the thick indescribable air of Delhi.

I arose at 9.30am with the sound of workmen and women thatching a roof, sweeping and hammering.
when I went outside I was in an oasis. The beautiful grounds of the village.
I met Madhi who offered me breakfast in the pergoda. As I ate the incredible food I looked with awe at what was around me.

working men and women everywhere. Before me was a microcosm of the population of Delhi.
Everywhere you go in the village there are people to serve you. During the day I met and spoke with many of them including the coordinator Sunil and the founder and Guru, Ashwin.

He directs his village in a manner that I have never seen before.
I can see Ashwin is the lord and master around here.

He invited me to have lunch with him and his staff. I'm the first resident artist here and I am so glad I have that priviledge before the other ten artists arrive in two days.
Here everything is catered for. My room is very comfortable and the food is amazing. There is plenty of fresh drinking water and every now and then a staff member interupts my work to offer me a hot chai tea.

The mosquitos are here for another week when winter starts then they are gone. Until then I'm taking my anti malerials every day.
I've pinched myself a few times today.
After my conversations with Ashwin I have realised the commercial potential of my work as an artist in Delhi.
I'm off to bed. I don't notice the air anymore
All in one day.
Incredible India!

written by  Eric Broome on October 31, 2006 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Journey to the Arts End
tagged DayOne
Send a Compliment

---

4 comments...

Tonka textile artists at norbulingka

Inside Norbulingka

Karma Sutra Sculpture made by Norbulingka sculptors

Buddhist Ceromony, McLeod Ganj

Textile Artist, Norbulingka

The drive took us north from Delhi through two states, Haryanya and The Punjab. Haryanya is one of the poorest states in India and the Punjab is the richest. The contrast, like the country, was breathtaking.

Australian white gums line the highway through the two states..

The Government imported them in the 1940's to beautify the highway. There are hundreds and thousands of them and ofcourse they are constantly reseeding so are multiplying every season. Most of them were 30 feet or more. The vision was surreal.

The difference in the states was evident as we crossed from Haryanya to the Punjab which is the Seikh state. It was cleaner by far and seemed more organised than the previous state.
Our driver pointed out The Golden Temple and said we should visit it. We ended up visiting it on the way back to Gav..

We arrived at Dharmsala at our accomodation at Osho Nisarga Foundation. It was total luxury. Until then we knew nothing about it. We met the owner,Manilum, a lady who was familiar to me. In the room there was a photo of the Bagwan Rajneesh or "Osho" as he was later called. I don't know if anyone remembers this guy but he was that bearded dude who originated from India but set up camp in United States in the US in around the 1950's.
He used to drive around with not one but a fleet of Rolls Royces. He was controversial because of his free sex mandate.

The US tax and police departments investigated. Eventually the police charged him with the attempted murder of his doctor and he was deported back to India. He died before they brought him to trial for other offences. His personal assistant Ma Sheela his personal assistant was in the headlines for a short while after he died.. Then she went to India and maybe Osho Nisarga?
The next morning we met the staff.
They were pleasant.
We just did our own thing.

We had planned that day to drive to Mcleod Ganj.
The drive was up into the hills.
High mountains that envelope you.
McLeod Ganj is a sacred place.
We found market stalls selling beautiful gems and clothing for a very cheap price.
That afternoon we visited the Buddhist Temple and witnessed a ceromony by the buddhist monks.
It was a burning ritual and monks played old intruments made from human thigh bone and large shells.
The next day we visited Norbulingka in the Kangra district east of Dharmsala which is an art school that teaches its Tibetan students ancient tibetan arts practices in Sculpture, painting and textiles.
Ancient Tibetan art is extaordinarily detailed.
The students practice Like a devoted monk.

One student I spoke to said he began his course at 15 years of age and spent 6 years as a student. He is now a professional and continues to work and paint at Norbulingka.
Tomorrow we head back to Delhi.

written by  Eric Broome on November 16, 2006 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Journey to the Arts End
Send a Compliment

---

1 comment...

It is a monolith. We deposit our shoes, don head coverings and wash our hands and feet before entering the main gate. The temple sits in a lake surrounded by an impressive enclosure. It was an enormous compound. We approached the bridge that crosses the lake to the temple and waited in line while prayers were read over a loud loud speaker. They let a few in at a time and as you move forward towards the temple you bow a few times. I can't describe what it is like to be in a temple made of pure gold. Its one of those things you just have to experience. The following day we made our way back to GAV.

Waiting to cross the bridge to the Golden Temple

The Golden Temple

The Gloden Temple

What is this guy looking at me like that fo? . I paid the ten rupees?

Looking for a hotel for the night in the holy city of Amritsar

In India there are two things I remember. Be clean and take advantage of how much Ican get for so little. If I have to stay in paid accomodation I make sure it is clean. I am not going to get anything acceptable for under 500 rupees which is around 12 bucks a night. For this I get a queen size bed and a shower and toilet. Although some backpackers are OK, most of them can be more expensive than hotels. Walk around and check out a few of the hotels first. Always look at the room before you check in and you should never pay more that 500rps for a good clean room. For that the rooms in each hotel vary greatly but there are lots of hotels and they are all competing against each other so find the best one.

Food can be tricky. If you stay in Ashrams they will feed you for a few rupees a day and sometimes food is exchanged for work. When you first arrive in India avoid food off the street. That is open food vendors that operate on the roadside or in markets. When you first arrive here always head for restaurants that are indoors. You can get a good 3 or 4 course feed for between 3 or 5 dollars AUD if you hunt around. After you get used to the food and youv'e had Delhi Belly you can eat from almost anywhere. Simply be aware of hygiene.

The best way to travel long distances in the cities is by auto (motorised) rickshaw but never forget that you are in India and if 4 bucks seems like a cheap one way auto rickshaw ride chances are it isn't. Cheaper still are the bicycle rickshaws but they only take you short distances. Whatever rickshaw type you take ou have to barter with the drivers. Always approach drivers one by one when you see rickshaws in a line to barter for the best price and even when you are flagging them down don't settle for their "off the top of their head price". Barter with them and if you have no joy find another one. I can get a rickshaw to take me across Delhi (around 20k) wait for me until I've done what I have to do and then take me back to where I started for 230 rps or $6.50 AUD.You have to barter for it though otherwise you can be paying 10 to 15 bucks a pop which might be OK in Sydney but in India you are being so ripped off. Always pay at the end of the journey and remember you are on India pricing which seems so cheap already but in India you do as the Indians do. If you take this advice you will get more rides for your dollar.

I barter In all market stalls in India but its harder to get the price down in an etablished shop. The best way to begin to barter is to know how much you want to spend for the item you are purchasing and don't pay a penny more. . Firstly find out its price then offer less than half the price quoted, then work it out. Doing it this way usually gets me an item for a little bit more than half the quoted or ticketed price. The thing to keep in mind is that the vendor wants to sell but if they can rip you off they will

Technology is the most expensive thing in India. They pay 100 bucks more for an Ipod than we do. All other types of products are as cheap as chips apart from some special items.

written by  Eric Broome on November 26, 2006 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Journey to the Arts End
Send a Compliment

---

comment on this...

Poomla's favourite of my paintings entitled "The Golden Temple" 2m x 1.5m

Poomla cleaning my room and about to wack me with a pink thong for getting talcum powder on the bathroom floor

As well as her own work, I have discovered that Poomla has an appreciation for abstract painting and is a natural born art critic and curator. I made the discovery this morning when out of the blue she came to my studio and pointed out three of the six paintings I've done.
She was indicating her preference. To the other three she just brushed her hand through the air as a signal to throw them out and start again.

The three she likes are my favourites as well.

written by  Eric Broome on December 10, 2006 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Journey to the Arts End
Send a Compliment

---

comment on this...