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The Kimberley: Days 11 & 12

Broome, Australia


On account of the fact I slept for the majority of the two days back to Broome I have nothing witty or coherent to write here. Sitting on a bus isn't the most mentally stimulating activity so have some photos instead. I'm gonna sit and marvel at them for a while. Aren't they pretty?

I was back in Broome about an hour when I randomly bumped into four people I knew in three separate places before I even got back up to the MCG to say hi to everyone. Ahh, Broome. Gotta love the tinyness. I also went to McDonalds to get a quick grease fix and got some very odd looks off a lad called Dan who Nicki had an interest in. Now, let me take you on a little trip down Not Much Of A Memory Lane...


Nights You Can't Remember With Friends You'll Never Forget
A while ago after a big night out we stumbled back to the campsite where Nicki asked me to call this lad who worked at McDonalds so, being the pissed up matchmaker I was called him at some obscene hour in the morning and demanded to know when he was taking Nicki out for a Chinese and a movie. He agreed to take her out and they met up a few times.

Aaaanyway, forwards to my leaving Broome party. Everyone had come to the Last Resort where I was staying and we'd had a few drinks there on top of the drinks me and Loody started on not too long after lunch. I remember leaving the Lastys. I remember getting to the Oasis. I even remember leaving that bar and getting home at some foolish hour. I have no recollection of what happened between leaving the hostel and getting to the bar.

Nicki does.

Apparently, me and Rachel had demanded to know which one was Dan and Nicki had no choice but to point him out because we were being so loud about it. He works at the drive through window so we got in our imaginary car, me driving, Rachel in shotgun DJing and Nicki in the back. Apparently she didn't want to be in the back but we made her because Rachel wanted to be DJ and it was my imaginary car but still, she actually got into our car and we walked through the drive through.

Making car noises.

It gets better.

After that I believe I spent a good while shouting at Dan and demanding that he take Nicki out while Rachel ordered fries. Once she'd finished them she asked Dan for a free refill and when he said no she told him, "You suck! I'm gonna tell Nicki you suck then she won't go out with you!" At this point I apologised for her behaviour because of course my behaviour at this point was perfectly acceptable then proceeded to escort her off the premises because she was drunk.

We stumbled out of Maccas, turned round to Nicki who was cowering outside and said, "Erm... I don't think your romance is a romance anymore."

So that would be why the poor bloke asked his supervisor for a break as soon as he saw me.

Yep, definitely the right time to be leaving Broome for good methinks.

permalink written by  Koala Bear on July 28, 2007 from Broome, Australia
from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged RoadTrip, LovinIt and Kimberley

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Broome To Darwin: Day 1

Mary Pool, Australia


Left Broome: 29/07/07
Arrived Darwin: 02/08/07

Sarah who I know from Rainbow Lodge had flown to Broome the previous night to come to Darwin. Neil was meant to be coming but he dropped out so Nicki, whos romance me and Rachel (but probably mainly me) had destroyed had decided to come as well.
I dragged them off for one of my trademark early starts because I wanted to stay at a rest stop we'd had lunch at on the All Terrain Safaris tour because it was pretty and there were crocs in the river which meant we had over 600km to cover and I wanted to get there in the light. We stocked up the esky and hit the road.

After developing a somewhat disturbing habit up the West Coast of keeping food in the esky it was good to see it full of shiny silver goon bags and a litre of milk for tea making purposes. Food should be kept to a minimum in an esky as it takes up precious space needed for the ice to keep the goon cool although lets face it, cold goon tastes just as bad as warm goon. Its not even real goon in Broome, its actual wine with names like Chardonnay or Semillion Sauvengion or other things that should be pronounced with a bad French accent.

Anyway, today was just a mad dash to Mary Pool rest stop, about an hour from Halls Creek. We posed for photos with a crocodile, collected some firewood and made friends with the people who'd been there a few days for reasons we could never fathom.

Mary Pool is a nice place to spend the night but just the night, it really is a rest stop in the middle of nowhere. Nicki and Sarah set their tents up and a bloke came over and warned us about the cows, apparently they wander through the site alot but they probably wouldn't trample the tents, I should be careful in my swag though.

Right on cue a huge bovine stampeded through the caravans and cars. I abandoned my usual habit of sleeping by the fire that night. If I'd have slept any closer to the car I'd have been under it.

permalink written by  Koala Bear on July 29, 2007 from Mary Pool, Australia
from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
tagged RoadTrip and LovinIt

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Broome To Darwin: Day 1

Wolfe Creek, Australia


One of the advantages of the mad dash yesterday was that we could just chill out this morning, have a lie in, take our time, have a cooked breakfast (which translates as egg sandwiches) which we nearly ended up sharing with Bruce, some sort of parrot that was obviously used to being fed.

He had no bloody fear, the little bleeder. The next parrot that tries to take my breakfast will become breakfast.

And then it was onto Wolfe Creek, 154km south of Halls Creek along the unsealed Tanami Road that runs all the way to Alice Springs. When Sarah had tried to get there last year apparently it was a shocking road, they couldn't get over 20kph so they gave up but this time it had been recently graded and apart from the huge, unsignposted dips you have to look out for you can get your speed up to about 80 - 110kph on the good bits. The only bit you might want to worry about in a 2WD is the last 10km of the turnoff, its just rocky and corrugated and there are three or four gates you have to go through. It was at one of these that Nicki lost her iPod, we went back for it but someone must have picked it up.

Bugger. I'd also lost a hubcap somewhere along the way but to be honest I needed a new set anyway on account of my habit of using kerbs as a handy Stop When You Hear The Crunch parking gauge.

There's free camping, like, right at the bottom of the crater and about 4 or 5 other people were camping there. Wolfe Creek isn't scary at all. Its a good, well used road in, people stay here all the time and there's a distinct lack of sociopaths and psychotic murderers in utes equipped with spotlights so they can dazzle their intended victim while they stumble about screaming, "Who are you?! What do you want from me?! What have you done with (insert name of unfortunate now ex boyfriend here) you bastard!"

What? What do you mean I watch too many films?

Wolfe Creek is something else though. We climbed into the crater, realised how unfit we were when we climbed back out and watched the sunset from the rim. It was a full moon rise that night an all, it was awesome, second only to a Broome Staircase moon rise.

Fuck I love my life.

permalink written by  Koala Bear on July 30, 2007 from Wolfe Creek, Australia
from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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Broome To Darwin: Day 4

Litchfield National Park, Australia


I love Lichfield National Park. Seriously, its awesome here, I'd even go as far as to say its better than Karijini.

  • dodges missiles thrown by WA types*


  • Oh what? Come on, WA is still my favorite state, its just that the Territory has the best National Park. I know I know, its a controversial statement but Lichfield is more accessible than Karijini and the swimming holes are slightly warmer. Just watch yourself in Florence Falls, I felt something scratch my leg and looked down and there was this little fish just looking at me. It had gone for one of the mozzy bites on my leg, apparently they're some kind of cleaning fish and they'll try and clean out any wounds that you have.

    Oh thanks, very fucking helpful! Try using cotton wool or something next time you vicious little sod.

    Lichfield is like a big, natural waterpark, Buley Rockhole is fun, its like a little cascade you can follow down, one of the pools is about 6 metres deep so you can jump in off the side. Its only a little jump though, I managed this one and at least there were no 69 year old women to put me to shame this time.

    Camping is $6.60 per person per night, we stayed at Wangi Falls because they're pretty and there's a little pool a few metres up the rock face which is a bit warmer than the rest of the plunge pool. I mean, I'm not saying you'd run your bath to that temperature but its still nice enough for you not to want to get back into the cold pool afterwards.



    permalink written by  Koala Bear on August 1, 2007 from Litchfield National Park, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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    Broome To Darwin: Day 5

    Darwin, Australia


    After another morning playing in Wangi Falls (oh yeah, and random as fuck, we bumped into Julien who I know from Echuca and his girlfriend Naomi who came on the Neighbours tour with me) with me and Sarah finishing the goon off, Nicki drove us to Darwin. Apart from one minor incident where I woke up in the back because she'd put my car in a ditch (glares) we made it in one piece and checked into Gecko Lodge.

    Right. Lets see how long it takes me to get bored of this place.

    permalink written by  Koala Bear on August 2, 2007 from Darwin, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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    Return To The Alice: Day 2

    Katherine, Australia


    Douglas River is the kind of place that makes me insanely jealous of the people of Darwin because they have this on their doorstep. Its basically a hot river, so hot in parts it can burn you, you have to be careful where you get in. There's a bit where cooler water flows in to meet the hot water and there's a little dip in the sand so you can sit with your back in the hot water and your feet in the cold while the fish nibble on your dead skin. They're the fish that don't hurt, like the ones at Dalhousie. Not the vicious little bleeders that try and clean your mozzy bites by removing portions of flesh like at Florence Falls. Ok, I exaggerate, they're only about 10cm long, not quite big enough to tear your limbs off but I bet if they were they wouldn't think twice about it. Cunts.

    Aaanyway, I was just sat in the river for a couple of hours because sitting in hot water is one of my favourite things surpassed only by vodka, chatting to a few people including a bloke called David, he's from Darwin but he'd been working away in Utopia, a desert town near Alice Springs. He was just on his way back and thought he'd chill at the river the previous night, just to relax before he went back to work.
    I like David. He invited me for breakfast. Anyone who cooks bacon and eggs for me instantly wins my heart. He also gave me a stack of food he said he'd bought for when he was working away and wouldn't use it now he was going back home. I never need to shop again, especially for cereal, either David makes a habit of feeding backpackers and small armies or he was expecting to be involved in a minor siege in Utopia. I am now the proud owner of all kinds of expensive breakfast products as well as packets and tins of food that don't have Home Brand (like Tescos Value) written on them and a tub of marge which I intend to put on top of on of my food bags at a slight angle so that when the car heats up it liquefies and covers as much stuff as possible because thats what I do with all my marge.

    After a quick stop at Edith Falls for a swim and to be chewed on by them nasty little cleaning fish again I headed to Katherine to rent a canoe and go paddling up the gorge. I actually enjoy canoeing providing shoulder movement isn't neccessary the next day but I'm lazy, I never get far before I start wishing for an engine or maybe a slave to paddle for me. Katherine Gorge is pretty though and it was a good way to kill an afternoon. The camp site there is $9.50 a night for an unpowered site but that includes hot showers.

    See, travelling in luxury, me.

    And a big shout out to Kat and Dave who, while I was freshie spotting up the gorge, were busy being all grown up like and getting wed. Let me know when you start breeding, guys, I'll make sure I'm out of the country in order to avoid baby sitting duties.

    permalink written by  Koala Bear on August 25, 2007 from Katherine, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
    tagged RoadTrip and LovinIt

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    Return To The Alice: Day 4

    Alice Springs, Australia


    There's pretty much fuck all worth stopping for between the Devil's Marbles and Alice Springs apart from Wycliffe Well, allegedly the UFO capital of Australia.

    Ohhhhh Kaaayyyyyy then.

    It amused me though so I stopped to get a few photos.

    I don't have an MP3 player so while I'm driving through dead zones I just let the radio scan the FM channels until it picks something up closer to the bigger towns. I got out of the car to get a photo of one of the signs and when I got back in the radio had stopped on 100.0 fm and was emitting white noise.

    Ok. A wee bit freaky but yeah. I set it scanning again and drove to the next sign. Just as I was about to get out it stopped on the same channel and carried on with the white noise. It did it again when I pulled into the roadhouse, as long as the car was stationary it'd stop on 100.0 fm and emit white noise.

    Were They trying to contact me? Maybe They were trying to tell me something.

    I made a mental note to wrap my head in tin foil as soon as possible to stop Them from stealing my brain.

    I was in Alice by lunchtime and met up with Toni for a bit. It's good to hang out with her again but I don't think her girlfriend agrees, I appear to have upset their delicate equilibrium and it only took me less than 24 hours.

    So, join me in Alice Springs as I try and think of things to do in a desert town and fail to make decisions. Shouldn't be too long before I'm besieged by marauding, horny lesbians. I mean, look at me!

  • scratches mozzy bite on arse and peels scab off leg*


  • permalink written by  Koala Bear on August 28, 2007 from Alice Springs, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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    A Town Like Alice

    Alice Springs, Australia


    Arrived: 27/08/07
    Left: 01/10/07

    Oh my god how much do I love Alice Springs? I didn't think there was anything to do here but Toni and nothing to see but drink and... wait a minute... swap that over...

    I only even came here because it was cheaper than Darwin and I was over picking watermelons, I didn't expect to have such an amazing time although I haven't blogged much in the 5 weeks I've been here because as much fun as it is, drinking so much that your brain seeps out of your ears and you're found sprawled on the floor around various parts of the hostel isn't exactly blog worthy.

    I've loved living at Toddy's, the crew are awesome and they made my time here memorable. Well, the bits I can remember anyway. I love the feel of Alice and I love Bojangles. Oh stop rolling your eyes, its brilliant there, its cheesy as fuck, knows it and doesn't care and you also get that smug sense of self satisfaction when you manage to open the toilet door the right way whilst completely inebriated and anyone whos ever been to Bo's will know exactly what I mean by that.

    Even after Toni left I still had a good time, no sooner had I gotten over the shocking realisation that the world doesn't actually revolve around me, Loody, Jean and Becky rocked up under strict instructions to keep me entertained.

    We did the usual Alice things, they headed out on a three day tour to Uluru and when they came back we decided to head into the McDonnell Ranges. I passed through the West Ranges last year when I was up here with Heading Bush and me and Toni went into the East Ranges for a day trip a couple of weeks previous but I wanted to take Becky, Loody and Jean an all so we duly stocked up on potatoes and goon and headed out.

    Our first stop was Standley Chasm which is the only attraction you have to pay for in the West McDonnell Ranges. They say that the best time to view it is between 11am and 1pm when the sun is high and the steep walls of the chasm glow a firey red.

    Bollocks.

    We rocked up at noon on the dot, I don't know what was more insulting, the fact we paid $8 or walked for 15 minutes to see it. It's definately not the Ranges proudest moment but hey, next stop was a Ellery Creek Big Hole, I'd been there before and it's wicked. It's the closest thing Alice Springs has to a beach, its just a short drive from town and has all kinds of exciting things such as water and sand and too many people, just like a real beach.

    Swimming in Ellery Creek is a challenge, its freezing cold and I mean freezing. You can swim all the way to the other side but about half way it gets easier because the hypothermia starts to set in and you go numb. Seriously, there should be some kind of medal for Doing Ellery Creek. I still love it though, its a beautiful spot and I have an addiction to fresh water swimming holes and the sunshine soon brings your nerve endings back to life so you can punish them again in the next water hole.

    After that we just drove as far as you can in a 2WD up to Glen Helen and another gorge then it was back on ourselves to Ormiston. The West McDonnell Ranges are brilliant, you can just hop from one water hole to the next, chill out, relax. If you're peckish you can stock up on pies at Glen Helen Resort, just be aware that it aint Mrs Macs! When will we ever learn that if its not Mrs Macs not to bother?

    And we had the best free camp ever in one of the roadside stops, it's a lookout with an amazing 360 degree view of the ranges, awesome at sunset. We're not too sure if you're allowed to camp there but nothing said we couldn't so we did. Ooh, walkin' on the wild side, us.

    It is compulsary even on mini road trips to consume as much grease as possible which meant the first stop the next morning was the BBQs at the Ochre Pits for bacon and egg and a nice cup of tea before heading back towards Alice to refuel via the rest of the pretty rocks such as Serpentine Gorge and Simpsons Gap. Yes, we did do the obligatory Look Like The Simpsons tourist photo. I have to admit, I don't make the best Lisa in the world on account of the whole Not Being Yellow thing I have going on.

    The East McDonnell Ranges are loads smaller than the West, you can do them in half a day easily unless you spend god knows how long painting yourselves up like Aboriginals in order to take amusing photographs. We'd done the same walk that me and Toni had done around Trephina Gorge, chilled by the dirty waterhole, had a bit of a dip then BBQ'd some spuds before breaking open the paint and going tribal.

    You can tell we've all spent too long in the bush. So easily amused.

    permalink written by  Koala Bear on September 30, 2007 from Alice Springs, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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    Being A Tourist - Day 1

    Cairns, Australia


    On account of the abject boredom and the desperate need for anything resembling Decent Conversation I got to Cairns a couple of days earlier than expected, arriving on the same day as Mum and Dad thus dashing any hope they had of a quite couple of days recovering from jet lag, getting used to the heat and humidity and generally relaxing. I dropped the girls off in town and drove to Palm Cove to meet the pair that spawned me for the first time in 17 months and began three weeks of renouncing noodles and dorm rooms in order to Be A Tourist.

    I've broken this down into bite sized pieces to make it easier to wade through, not that anyone is gonna read it anyway, I don't know why I bother half the time. Its a bloody good job I'm just about self centred enough to enjoy telling the world all about me me me regardless of whether they like it or not.


    Today we were going to Cairns Tropical Zoo in the morning then we were going to make some plans for the next couple of weeks in the afternoon, we'd get a nice early start, they'd call me when they were up and I'd drive in from town. I gave them until about 10.30am before I called to get them up.
    I don't know, parents ay, lying in their pits until god knows what hour, anyone would think they were on holiday. So the afternoon plans were abandonded and instead we just chilled at the zoo. There'd be plenty of time for planning later and anyways, planning is best done over a beer.

    The zoo is cool though, its $29 each to get in but you can easily fill a whole day there with the obligatory reptile talks, crocodile shows and cups of tea at the cafe plus you get to manhandle saltwater crocs before they get too big to remove limbs. And and and! I got to cuddle a koala for the first time. I kind of forgot they existed, they don't have koalas in WA or the NT which is where I'd been living, I'd stopped associating Australia with koalas thinking instead about stingers and crocodiles and other things that'd generally keep you out of the water on a blazing hot day.

    If I had a totem animal the koala would be it. They're cute and cuddly (oi, stop laughing you fuckers!), sleep for 16 to 20 hours a day and eat food of no nutritional value whatsoever. If they drank I'm sure it'd be goon. So we spent the best part of the day there then headed back to Palm Cove for dinner.

    One of the best things about Being A Tourist is the food, no more boiling noodles for 2 minutes in a kitchen which you have to share with 100 other people and probably e-coli. Oh no. Its cafes for lunch and restaurants for dinner.

    I wondered how my body was going to cope with Nutrients.

    permalink written by  Koala Bear on October 5, 2007 from Cairns, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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    Being A Tourist - Day 2

    Cairns, Australia


    On account of the lack of planning the day before it was a quite one today, me and dad went sea kayaking round Double Island which was nice whilst mum chilled out on the mainland.

    Cairns is promoted as the place where the rainforest meets reef but you don't really get the full impact of that until you look back at it from the ocean and see the headland covered in trees with the top of it shrouded in cloud. It's a beautiful place but so unlike what I'd become accustomed to in Australia, I was sort of missing the Eucalypts, the scrub and the vast open deserts but at the same time I love how diverse this country is. Oh its such a hard life ay. Which amazing place shall I visit next?

    permalink written by  Koala Bear on October 6, 2007 from Cairns, Australia
    from the travel blog: Sod Off Great Big Mission Round Oz
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